Absolutely!You probbably only need to be that accurate to set cam timing etc.....
My new challenge - 1964 ID19F Safari
- Thread starter bleudanube
- Start date
Well, I am not 100% sure I got it right... adjusted all the valves, set cylinder 1 to TDC and then installed the distributor to when the points just close - pointing to distributor cap outlet for cylinder 1... the only thing I read somewhere is that the finger/cylinder 1 should be pointing 45 degrees off the block towards the passenger seat - mine points roughly 45 degrees off to the front left corner. Does that matter? Could I be 90 degrees out somehow?
Sven,
I think you would be wanting the points to be starting to open at TDC on the power stroke when the engine is turning the right way. It is when the points open that the current in the coil primary is interrupted and the HV is generated in the secondary to cause a spark in the plug in cylinder one. So at TDC on number one with both valves having been completely closed for many degrees, the points should be just starting to open, and the rotor cap should be pointing to the lead on the distributor cap that is connected to the spark plug on cylinder 1.
Cheers, Ken
I think you would be wanting the points to be starting to open at TDC on the power stroke when the engine is turning the right way. It is when the points open that the current in the coil primary is interrupted and the HV is generated in the secondary to cause a spark in the plug in cylinder one. So at TDC on number one with both valves having been completely closed for many degrees, the points should be just starting to open, and the rotor cap should be pointing to the lead on the distributor cap that is connected to the spark plug on cylinder 1.
Cheers, Ken
Well brains trust - sometimes the simplest things do your head in:
I cannot get my fuel gauge read the sender the right way round. By putting in a new sender from Bob the intermittent issue is fixed, but i still have the problem that when the sender’s foot is down the gauge reads full and vice versa.
swapped wires and gauges - no different. There is no other way to install the float but one way.
anyone any ideas what this could be and how to coax the bugger into reading the right way? There are only two wires... yellow from sender and ground.... how hard can it be
I cannot get my fuel gauge read the sender the right way round. By putting in a new sender from Bob the intermittent issue is fixed, but i still have the problem that when the sender’s foot is down the gauge reads full and vice versa.
swapped wires and gauges - no different. There is no other way to install the float but one way.
anyone any ideas what this could be and how to coax the bugger into reading the right way? There are only two wires... yellow from sender and ground.... how hard can it be
Maybe that is the sender from the later car...... i think it was a '70 D Super.
Maybe the system was changed at some point.
The sender simply provides an adjustable resistance to earth.......
Maybe the early one was reverse to later..... ie one had max resistance at full, the other at empty.
Could you remount the sender coil, the other way round..... drill a mounting hole in the opposite face.....
Or could you bend the float arm, the other way, so its action is reversed.
Or transplant the pick-up coil (from the other early one) into your old worn one.
OR......ask me to find a better early one.
I'm sure i have a few more to try, but they might be suffering from poor storage conditions.......
Maybe the system was changed at some point.
The sender simply provides an adjustable resistance to earth.......
Maybe the early one was reverse to later..... ie one had max resistance at full, the other at empty.
Could you remount the sender coil, the other way round..... drill a mounting hole in the opposite face.....
Or could you bend the float arm, the other way, so its action is reversed.
Or transplant the pick-up coil (from the other early one) into your old worn one.
OR......ask me to find a better early one.
I'm sure i have a few more to try, but they might be suffering from poor storage conditions.......
Yes..... a brief lesson on how coil and points work.
With the points closed, the primary winding in the coil is powered and builds a magnetic field around it. A voltage is induced in the secondary coil ONLY when the magnetic field is either growing or collapsing. With the primary coil powered constantly the field is not changing so no secondary voltage is created. (This is why a simple coil transformer only works on AC current).
When the points open, the primary suddenly loses power (softened a little by the condensor, to reduce sparking at the points, and magnetic interference from the primary circuit) and the magnetic field suddenly collapses, suddenly inducing a very high voltage in the secondary coil...... the voltage rises, until it is enough to jump the gaps in the system. 1 is at the plug, the other is at the tip of the dizzy rotor inside the cap. When the voltage is high enough a spark is formed. Normally the gap at the rotor tip is greater than at the plug so it is the controlling gap, ie it sets the voltage and the timing of the spark as the voltage rises.
I remember about 30 years ago there was a gadget on the market called a Lectran which was supposed to improve your spark voltage, by some high tech magic.
You fitted it in the high tension input at the dizzy. All it was...... was a bigger gap which delayed the spark until it was at a higher voltage. You could achieve a similar result by filing a little off the rotor tip to make the gap bigger.
Dwell..... is the angle (in a 4 cylinder engine dizzy system..... 90 degrees is max) that the points are closed.
If the coil remains powered too long the field gets saturated (magnetically) and the coil heats up. With too much dwell the coil runs too hot and it's efficiency drops away dramatically.
With not enough dwell the primary is not powered long enough to establish a good magnetic field, and the spark is weak.
So..... it is the opening of the points that creates the spark.
It's a different set of symptoms but maybe worth eliminating. On my later 68 car, I tried to test the fuel gauge off the car and with the dashboard out. if i just connected my Jaeger sender to the dash gauge, it gave odd readings. To get it to read correctly over the range of travel of the float, I had to additionally earth the dash unit. So try connecting an extra wire from the gauge body (where is screws into the speedo unit) to the negative of your supply and give that a go.
success at the last minute! Bob sent me two old fuel senders, so I tried the crustiest one and .... surprise! The fuel gauge showed full when the float was up and empty when it was down! 
Even though the innards of all three gauges look the same, the last one worked the right way! Phew, one down.... still no idea why the ‘original’ sender ain’t working... maybe it never did?
It also means I could finally bolt all the seat items into the car properly.
I cut the bottom seat pad from 175mm foam, same process as the back rest. Electric carving knife and wadding. Worked a treat. Very, very comfortable!
Very stylish and plush...
And it is indeed a nice flat floor when all the seats are down.
After all my hunting for the clutch plate alignment tool I ended up using only parts of it as the cone was still too big - and used masking tape to get the right size.... anyway, all good. Worked well.
So, gearbox on, and then ancillaries: accumulator, fuel pump, starter, exhaust and inlet parts. Only issue is that one of the threads for the oil line from the head to the timing chain lubricator stripped out... so I might have to take the head back off and helicoil the thread. - annoying.
Question about the heat shields: I seem to be missing a couple of brackets. Where does the black one in the middle of the photo go? There doesn’t seem to be a thread / bolt where the bracket could bolt on to...
I had some heat shield padding left over from a motorbike job... so I glued that on instead of the good old asbestos sheets....
And last but not least: Thanks for another couple of clutch pedal springs Bob. I think I finally now got it worked out and installed.
I Also put a new sticker onto the tank, and attached the hoses to the return lines. That took a fair bit of prodding, heating, WD40 and force - but they are all in place now - hopefully in the right order as I didn’t take good photos of that spaghetti setup.
With Melbourne being in lockdown again it doesn’t tempt you to do anything outside, so a pretty good weekend, with lots achieved.
might tackle the front breaks next weekend. Interested to see how that clockwork goes back together.
Sven
Even though the innards of all three gauges look the same, the last one worked the right way! Phew, one down.... still no idea why the ‘original’ sender ain’t working... maybe it never did?It also means I could finally bolt all the seat items into the car properly.
I cut the bottom seat pad from 175mm foam, same process as the back rest. Electric carving knife and wadding. Worked a treat. Very, very comfortable!
Very stylish and plush...
And it is indeed a nice flat floor when all the seats are down.
After all my hunting for the clutch plate alignment tool I ended up using only parts of it as the cone was still too big - and used masking tape to get the right size.... anyway, all good. Worked well.
So, gearbox on, and then ancillaries: accumulator, fuel pump, starter, exhaust and inlet parts. Only issue is that one of the threads for the oil line from the head to the timing chain lubricator stripped out... so I might have to take the head back off and helicoil the thread. - annoying.
Question about the heat shields: I seem to be missing a couple of brackets. Where does the black one in the middle of the photo go? There doesn’t seem to be a thread / bolt where the bracket could bolt on to...
I had some heat shield padding left over from a motorbike job... so I glued that on instead of the good old asbestos sheets....
And last but not least: Thanks for another couple of clutch pedal springs Bob. I think I finally now got it worked out and installed.
I Also put a new sticker onto the tank, and attached the hoses to the return lines. That took a fair bit of prodding, heating, WD40 and force - but they are all in place now - hopefully in the right order as I didn’t take good photos of that spaghetti setup.
With Melbourne being in lockdown again it doesn’t tempt you to do anything outside, so a pretty good weekend, with lots achieved.
might tackle the front breaks next weekend. Interested to see how that clockwork goes back together.
Sven
It's looking great Sven!
You might want to recheck the static timing now the bellhousing is in place by putting a pin into the timing hole. Only the post '71 cars use TDC as the timing point, prior to that the notch in the flywheel is I think 12° BTDC for non-EFI cars.
Give me a shout if you get stuck with the brakes. I've got the tool for adjusting them.
You might want to recheck the static timing now the bellhousing is in place by putting a pin into the timing hole. Only the post '71 cars use TDC as the timing point, prior to that the notch in the flywheel is I think 12° BTDC for non-EFI cars.
Give me a shout if you get stuck with the brakes. I've got the tool for adjusting them.
Thanks Faulksy. Yep, will recheck the timing again.
which tools for the front breaks do you have? The wobbly spanner for the ratchet mechanism or the pad clamp? Those seem to be the only two needed as per manual..?
you wouldn’t have the rear brake adjustment set up tool by any chance? Or is there another simple way to set up the rear shoes on the single bolt hubs? Am thinking of making up a simple protractor that bolts into the wheel thread and then spins around... what’s the normal clearance for the shoes to drum? 2mm circumference gap? Or less?
I've definitely got the splined tool for adjusting the clockwork mechanism.
Don't remember seeing the rear brake tool but I can go hunting through the tub of tools someone gave me. I'm assuming it's this contraption.
It will have to wait till we are out of jail next weekend although the way things are going it may be longer.
Don't remember seeing the rear brake tool but I can go hunting through the tub of tools someone gave me. I'm assuming it's this contraption.
It will have to wait till we are out of jail next weekend although the way things are going it may be longer.
Can I quickly drag you back to your seats Sven? The photo in post 428 show two different colours - and so possibly two different thicknesses? So in addition to the wadding, are you using two different types/ densities of foam please?
Yes, there were two types of foam available - the yellow one is the ‘better Dunlop” foam, the grey one standard upholstery foam. The supplier didn’t have the yellow one in 125mm thick so I went for the normal one and added a 50mm layer of Dunlop to it.
Not sure what the tip of 2129 looks like, but as I don’t have an access problem (ie doing it on the work bench) I can probably find a widget that does the job.
2115 would be nice to have - looks like a nifty setup to check the drums and align the shoes. I am in no rush, so I am sure I can sit out an extended lockdown....
I had no idea fuel senders were different for a '64. You never stop learning. I'll have to keep that little nugget tucked away for later use. If it's that way for the Aus market cars, chances are pretty good it's that way for all of them.
Butercup bob also makes the handbrake tool. You shouldn't need it in this case as you have the calipers to bits, so will have wound the adjuster in by hand.
These days the tool probably isn't really needed. I'm pretty sure I will never wear out brakepads fast enough, that the caliper doesn't need to be pulled down and freed up if I ever need to change the brake pads.
Maybe I am seeing ghosts... I checked all the timing and distributor settings again.
put the pin into the flywheel. Double checked the small vs large donut - small side to the engine block and parallel with crank. Adjusted the points to just opening.... and the finger points away from the block to #1.
so I checked my old distributor cap, and.... ah ha! It also has #1 plug towards where the finger points now. So, it looks like the setup is right after all. Phew!
put the pin into the flywheel. Double checked the small vs large donut - small side to the engine block and parallel with crank. Adjusted the points to just opening.... and the finger points away from the block to #1.
so I checked my old distributor cap, and.... ah ha! It also has #1 plug towards where the finger points now. So, it looks like the setup is right after all. Phew!
Sometimes it's skill, sometimes it's luck.
If it works, it must be skill,
If it fails, it must be luck!
If it works, it must be skill,
If it fails, it must be luck!
I made a rear brake setting gauge from an old drum.
Leaving the centre circle intact, I cut away all of the drum rim except for a radial finger about 50mm wide.
Leaving the centre circle intact, I cut away all of the drum rim except for a radial finger about 50mm wide.
I am sure I will come up with something. What’s the right clearance between the shoes and the drum? Is 1mm sufficient?