Peugeot 203 Control Arm, no clearance! EEEK, Please Help!

James Gelido

James Gelido

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Hi guys,

So I have just finished re-installing the new brakes, some new bushes and boots on my 203 sedan, only to now find the control arm is slightly rubbing on both front left and right wheels. I did not touch this section of the car (dismantle) so not too sure what is going on. Perhaps control arms have warped or bent from previous drivers?

As shown in photos, are they really supposed to be that close to the wheel and if not, how much clearance should they have, and what exactly is going on with mine?

Any kind on insight would be great,

Note* The car is on stands (in photo). Putting the car on the ground (off stands) does reduce the angle of the control arm, minimising the wheel rub. However, still catches slightly on some points of the wheel.

Thanks fellas,

James
 

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James Gelido said:
Hi guys,

So I have just finished re-installing the new brakes, some new bushes and boots on my 203 sedan, only to now find the control arm is slightly rubbing on both front left and right wheels. I did not touch this section of the car (dismantle) so not too sure what is going on. Perhaps control arms have warped or bent from previous drivers?

As shown in photos, are they really supposed to be that close to the wheel and if not, how much clearance should they have, and what exactly is going on with mine?

Any kind on insight would be great,

Note* The car is on stands (in photo). Putting the car on the ground (off stands) does reduce the angle of the control arm, minimising the wheel rub. However, still catches slightly on some points of the wheel.

Thanks fellas,

James
Click to expand...

Hello James, were these wheels on the car when you bought it? They look to be 15", and if the body plate number of your car is less than 1.877.363 it's set up to run on 16" wheels, as the steering arm pokes out of the swivel by an extra 5mm. compared to the later 203 ones, and the 403. A few options: 1, find a set of 203 16" wheels. 2, grind the welds off at the back of the steering arms, and have them pushed back the 5mm and re-welded, need a press for this job, or find yourself a pair of late 203 or 403 front stub axles.
 
You can fit spacers from the drum braked 404, I have at least one of these available, can take a look and see.
 
GRAHAM WALLIS said:
You can fit spacers from the drum braked 404, I have at least one of these available, can take a look and see.
Click to expand...

Yes, Grahams' solution to your dilemma is the most simplistic way to go. These spacer plates are 3mm. thick, and all being well should give you just enough clearance, you will have a few threads less when tightening your wheel nuts though. There's bound to be some of these plates floating around the Aussie Frog traps, sorry I don't have any that I know of, but will have a squizz through the junk pile, and check with my brother, maybe some luck there.
 
I would be more concerned about the severe corrosion of the control arms themselves.
 
I suspect a thick crust of grease and dust is more likely than corrosion.
 
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fnqvmuch said:
I suspect a thick crust of grease and dust is more likely than corrosion.
Click to expand...

Yes, looks like the usual 60 odd year build up of crud! Would be wise sooner than later James to pop the tie rod ends off the steering arms to see how healthy the ball joints are, and maybe do a wriggle on the 'silent' bushes on the other ends of the arms as well. Those 'silent' bushes are same/same as rear shock, axle tube and steering eye bolt. Still not too hard a part to find if needed.
 
Bushes are available, maybe even from EAI in Melbourne or Sydney, otherwise from O/S. They were also used in 404s and 403s and early 504 or 604 rack ends.

lo203404 said:
Yes, looks like the usual 60 odd year build up of crud! Would be wise sooner than later James to pop the tie rod ends off the steering arms to see how healthy the ball joints are, and maybe do a wriggle on the 'silent' bushes on the other ends of the arms as well. Those 'silent' bushes are same/same as rear shock, axle tube and steering eye bolt. Still not too hard a part to find if needed.
Click to expand...
 
lo203404 said:
Hello James, were these wheels on the car when you bought it? They look to be 15", and if the body plate number of your car is less than 1.877.363 it's set up to run on 16" wheels, as the steering arm pokes out of the swivel by an extra 5mm. compared to the later 203 ones, and the 403. A few options: 1, find a set of 203 16" wheels. 2, grind the welds off at the back of the steering arms, and have them pushed back the 5mm and re-welded, need a press for this job, or find yourself a pair of late 203 or 403 front stub axles.
Click to expand...

Hi, they are 15 and after checking Chassie number definetly not the right size although it is all the wheels I have I'm afraid. Ending up grinding a bit off the tip (section rubbing) of the control arm and bought some 6mm (110 ID and 170 OD) universal wheel spacers. These will do the trick https://www.ebay.com/itm/WHEEL-SPACE...IAAOSwLyhbXjf7! Thanks heaps for the advice :)
 
lo203404 said:
Yes, Grahams' solution to your dilemma is the most simplistic way to go. These spacer plates are 3mm. thick, and all being well should give you just enough clearance, you will have a few threads less when tightening your wheel nuts though. There's bound to be some of these plates floating around the Aussie Frog traps, sorry I don't have any that I know of, but will have a squizz through the junk pile, and check with my brother, maybe some luck there.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much, any parts would be great to complete my rebuild. Rubbers, bushes, chrome trim etc etc
 
fnqvmuch said:
I suspect a thick crust of grease and dust is more likely than corrosion.
Click to expand...

No corrosion at all. What you see is about 60 years of crud and oil which funny enough preserved the bits better than bare.
 
lo203404 said:
Yes, looks like the usual 60 odd year build up of crud! Would be wise sooner than later James to pop the tie rod ends off the steering arms to see how healthy the ball joints are, and maybe do a wriggle on the 'silent' bushes on the other ends of the arms as well. Those 'silent' bushes are same/same as rear shock, axle tube and steering eye bolt. Still not too hard a part to find if needed.
Click to expand...

Thanks mate. I will do! Safety is the #1 priority. Wonder where to start with parts ....
 
GRAHAM WALLIS said:
Bushes are available, maybe even from EAI in Melbourne or Sydney, otherwise from O/S. They were also used in 404s and 403s and early 504 or 604 rack ends.
Click to expand...

Apart from EIA, any other places to source the bushes? Like to keep my options open :)
 
There are some on Ebay Aus. at present. If you type in Peugeot 203, just keep scrolling, 2nd page there are 4 for $44.00. Stacks of them on Ebay France from at least 2 regular suppliers. EAI did have them on special some time ago for $5.00 each. Peugeot Part No. is: 5248.04. Dimensions: 12x30x30x24. Give them a bell first.
 
lo203404 said:
There are some on Ebay Aus. at present. If you type in Peugeot 203, just keep scrolling, 2nd page there are 4 for $44.00. Stacks of them on Ebay France from at least 2 regular suppliers. EAI did have them on special some time ago for $5.00 each. Peugeot Part No. is: 5248.04. Dimensions: 12x30x30x24. Give them a bell first.
Click to expand...

Ah, the bushes. Yes, I have replaced them. Graham supplied me 2 a while back. Was looking more at the round rubbers located just below the control arm, connecting the two rods (on the original photo). Not too sure what they are called. Any idea where I could source them?
 
Hi James, Start making a list of the pieces needed, also pictures of those particular areas and throw them up, as per the steering arm/ tie rod. That rubber you mentioned joining the two is basically a dust boot. Crap still finds it's way in if you don't keep the grease up to the ball joint. The part No. for that piece is 3830.03, probably same/same as 403/404/ early 504. Back to the list, you need to do this also sooner than later, as every day that passes, a lot of us have/will be sending stuff that's gathered dust for the last umpteen years to 'Simmsys' crusher. If you don't have a copy of a spare parts book, at least a photo will help to identify what part No. is needed, as there are many parts that are incompatible between the early girls and the A & C models. Hop to it!
Forgot to mention, this is if the car is still off the ground, and the front road wheels off the car. You can do a quick check of the condition of the ball joints on the tie rods by undoing the nuts on the tie rods at the steering eye bolt end, need a brass drift to tap on the end of the bolt to start them off then a 8mm rod to knock them all the way out. A tie rod ball joint in good nick should have slight resistance in it's movement in any direction. If the car is going to be off the ground for an extended period it's a good idea to undo a couple of turns each nut on each point where there is a silent block, just takes the stress off the rubbers as they are not in their natural neutral position as when the vehicle is on the ground. Just don't forget to tighten everything up later on!
 
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