Removing bolt attaching exhaust pipe to manifold
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Thread: Removing bolt attaching exhaust pipe to manifold

  1. #1
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    Default Removing bolt attaching exhaust pipe to manifold

    Hi all!

    Re my 1968 ID 19B, I have removed all the nuts but one which secure the exhaust to the manifold section. Is it a flange? not sure of the terminology.

    Access to this nut seems to be from below the vehicle following the exhaust upwards with a wabble socket and extension, but with the devices that I have it still won't quite line up or fit properly past the small curved heat shield.

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    Just wondering what gear might fit or whether I am going about this in the correct way.

    Cheers

    John

  2. #2
    UFO
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    You're heading in the right direction. You probably need a combo of short and long wobble bars.
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

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    Fellow Frogger! Rally's Avatar
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    Many years ago I cut an 11 mm socket down to make it as short as possible , just deep enough to grip the nut and extension bar , had to push up very hard to keep it on the wobble extension . They are a bastard to get at , Good Luck .
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    Oh yes, I had forgotten about shortening the socket.You did use 3/8 drive?Thank you both

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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Its been a lot of years since I've pulled a short stroke motor.... You need a good quality single hex socket. The obvious choice is one of your fathers sockets Grind that thing down until if fits. Don't worry, I'm sure he'll never notice if you get around to returning it

    The candle wax trick also works brilliant if the threads are rusted and frozen.

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    IIRC these nuts on the downpipe are not full height standard nuts.....they are a bit like pyramids ( pointed on top ) so they do not offer a good flat sided surface for the socket to engage on. I think they are also split across the pointed top as well. This is the closest style I could find a picture of... intended to show how important it is to get the socket to engage straight and the need for maybe two universal joints in the "power line" between your hand and the nuts.

    https://www.allfourx4.com.au/90179-10128

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    This link might give you some ideas about what you are up against.
    Looking upwards into the dark grunge with all sorts of detritus responding to gravity !!!
    I note he replaced the original nuts at reassembly.

    Restoration of a 1968 Citroen DS21bvh Pallas: August 2018

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    The thought of my father with tools is quite entertaining

    And dangerous!

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    Quote Originally Posted by fritzelhund View Post
    This link might give you some ideas about what you are up against.
    Looking upwards into the dark grunge with all sorts of detritus responding to gravity !!!
    I note he replaced the original nuts at reassembly.

    Restoration of a 1968 Citroen DS21bvh Pallas: August 2018
    I have removed 2 of the nuts with easier access and I don't think that they were that shape. I wonder if someone has already changed them. The vehicle has been a project by 2 previous owners, one of them twice and out of action for the majority of its life. So I'm told anyway. Possible that the last nut is original though. Impossible to see. Yes I did get the goggles out soon after poking up the channel. I have been lucky with this vehicle so far, touch wood that the nuts and bolts have all been easy to remove, accept the front seat belt anchors through the floor. Possibly due to the fact that it has been fiddled with and virtually no rust.

    I enjoyed reading about the paint prep in that article

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    If you undo all manifold to head nuts , move manifolds away from head a bit you will have access to rear stud

  11. #11
    bob
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    G'day,

    harking back to a very much earlier life.....

    Common practice with rusty manifold nuts was to just use a nut splitter on the mongels and replace 'em in brass.

    cheers,
    Bob
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    Finally success,
    thanks to all the advice.

    On to the next step

    Cheers

    John
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  13. #13
    UFO
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    Good! Now, while you have the manifold off, can I suggest that, unless you know the starter motor is absolutely faultless, that you remove it and find a reputable auto electrician to overhaul it? Or perhaps that's the reason you're taking the manifold off anyway.
    Craig K
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    Ram
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    Hi,Yes you have been getting good advice. Once you have removed the removed the exhaust. it would be prudent to remove the two halves of the exhaust manifold and either replace the Starter Motor and associated external wiring of have it professionally overhauled.I have done a few engine and starter changes on DS21/D Special and fortunately have a very good Snap On 1/"Drive Socket set. Any make 1/4 drive set is almost essential to access the forward flange nut from underneath. I use the ratchet and or the screw driver with the kit, a 11mm socket and a universal , a 30cm & a 15cm extension . The 1.4 drive screwdriver is handy for replacing the nut. I use masking tape to hold socket , universal and extensions together with some rsidial flexibility.And dont forget a ground sheet to work on. Vey difficuld finding nuts and washers in the grass Happy daze

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    Ok, the vehicle started without issue when loading it on and off the trailer and driving it into the shed at home but yes my goal is to go over everything necessary as the car, from Gayendah, has not been in roadworthy condition for several decades and I have no solid history of what has been worked on.At the moment I am removing all the necessary components to allow the engine/gearbox to be lifted and checked over by a professional. I will include the starter motor to the next phase. On the list of what I still need to remove is;Gear ShiftThrottlePressure Regulator pipeFeed Pipe to tankBrake pressure feedI'm hoping that the workshop manual contains good diagrams of all these components!

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Hi

    Yes. Removal is covered in the manual. It's Operation Dm.100-1 in Section 1 of volume 2 of Manual 814. There are a couple of very good videos on Youtube about removing an engine from a manual gearchange DS. I used these (and the workshop manual) as the basis for writing out a checklist when I pulled my engine. Here is part one.

    Most recently, the "Servicing The Goddess" people have released a long (unedited?) video about removing the engine from a hydraulic gearchange car.

    Hope you find these helpful - or at the very least interesting!

    Budge/ Paul
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    1968 DS21bvh Pallas in Gris Palladium

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    Thanks for the links,
    the one with the Charles Aznavour music I had seen but the second one is thorough, clear and methodical.

    I have just completed my list of work left, from the manual so that link should help me greatly identify the components.

    Very Grateful
    John

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