Renault 18-20
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Thread: Renault 18-20

  1. #1
    Good Sport danielsydney's Avatar
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    Renault 18-20

    Does anyone know how much a Renault 18 or 20 would be (if u can find one) in fair condition? clown

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! DTwo's Avatar
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    Neither would be over $5000 even in spectacular condition....

    I would imagine a _very_ decent 20 or 18 would be around $3-4000 these days.....of which there are very few around, anywhere.

    With the average prices being $1500 to $3000 with condition ranging accordingly.

    There would be plenty of 18/20s under $1500 too....but would require work and be relatively tatty.

    Of the two, unless you have a preference for smaller cars, IMHO the 20 (in good condition) is the better car of the two, the series 2 20s are still quite a modern/slick/well appointed car (for their age) .

    I might be alone here, but I think a good 20 can be an exceptionally comfortable car which can gallop along, cruise long distances and be thrown around corners much better than you may expect. ( sounds Citroenish eh)

    of course,
    -insert obligatory biased praise and recommendation for a good R16TS/TX above all Renaults except Alpines/v6 25/30s and perhaps Clios _here_- wink

    Good luck with your hunt!
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    Last edited by DTwo; 22nd August 2011 at 05:23 AM.

  3. #3
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    there is an 18 in the local wrecking yard here
    i think all it needs is an engine
    let me know and i'll see the bloke and have a really close look at it and let you know $$$'s
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  4. #4
    Good Sport danielsydney's Avatar
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    Thanks for that there was one in the tradingpost and it is an auto but looked a bit rough though.
    It would be a great buy if i had the room to keep it somewhere...

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts BogMaster's Avatar
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    Daniel, don't even think about an auto 18 or 20.

    They are old cars now, remember all the postings about Renault autos multiply the warnings by a factor of ten....an auto 18 or 20, 20 years on will just bring you grief.

    18's all tend to be a bit tatty, the trim was awful,the dashboards crack badly and the silver foil chrome just peels off. The power windows on both the 18 and 20 move like snails..unless of course the cruddy switches aren't working, in which case the windows won't move at all. Earlier 18's had major probs with the front window mechanism...they tend to drop at an angle and don't close completely unless you physically push the glass up. But they are fun to drive, more so than the 20, which contrary to earlier postings just isn't a nimble car and tends to roll like the Queen Mary on corners, even with new shocks and good tyres.

    The 20 is a great car for doing most other things, it handles dirt really well, it is a great cruiser on the open road....it is fast and comfortable.

    It is big and solid and engenders confidence...the power steering is good but tends to add to the feeling that you might be driving a tank. It does not handle brilliantly on the roundabouts of Canberra, let alone mountain bends.

    It is also very heavy to push by hand when you run out of petrol.

    The original metallic paint on both models was a complete joke...self detaching would be a good description.

    So look for a solid colour or one with a good respray.

    I'd be looking to pay much less than the figures quoted earlier..the vehicles were never that popular (especially the 18) and if you are prepared to search you will find a good vehicle
    for not much money at all.

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  6. #6
    Simon's Avatar
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    My pick out of an 18 or 20 would be a Series 2 five speed manual trans 20 in a non metallic colour. Nowadays you should be able to pick a decent one up for between $1500 to $3000 for a pristine one with FSH and lowish k's.

    18's are fine, but they don't have the added mod cons of the 20 S2 for not much more.

    Things to look for, rust, usually in the front guards of a 20, but check all over, doors etc.. Servicing, the cambelt needs to be changed every 100,000k's, check for proper coolant in the expansion bottle to avoid internal engine corrosion, check for leaks from the power steering rack, check for split driveshaft boots. If interested in buying one it would be an idea to get it checked out by a Renault specialist, or at least the NRMA/RAA/RACV. The cars are getting to an age where they can suffer from a multiplicity of age related problems and end up turning into a money pit for non mechanically minded owners!

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  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! DTwo's Avatar
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    It is also very heavy to push by hand when you run out of petrol.
    LOL, I can second that one....real hard to push

    One of my friends used to own a series 1 20, it's fuel tank split and dropped a full tank of fuel on the road .....apparently weak tanks can be a problem with 20s, or so he was told.....seems very weird to me.

    Not alot of fun.

    As everyone's posted......be careful to check the car out throughly they can quickly turn into money pits.

    As for 20s handling.....they are rolly polly cars......but i think they hold on better than quite a few cars of similar weight, size and intent.

    I've only driven a series 1 (on decent tyres....actually i think it had A008s or something on it! ) pretty hard on a mountain road (it's tank was intact that day wink ) and was able to keep up with a warmed over (including suspension/tyres) 2lt mk2 escort
    that was being driven "briskly".....much to the surprise of all, including me

    They are no sports car.....but can be "brisk", if you can handle the body roll...

    hehe, lift off oversteer is an experience in a 20
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    Last edited by DTwo; 22nd August 2011 at 05:23 AM.

  8. #8
    Good Sport danielsydney's Avatar
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    It seems as though if i want another car it might have to be an 18 of some kind. The 20 might be too heavy for rego as Im in NSW too. Might just have to stay with the 19 for the time being then buy an 18.

  9. #9
    Simon's Avatar
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    Why are you back trading? Also what is the deal with NSW rego? Do they charge on power, weight or what?
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  10. #10
    Good Sport danielsydney's Avatar
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    The registration in NSW goes on weight only nothing else.
    Thats why i dont want a 6 cylinder.

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! DTwo's Avatar
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    What are the actual weights of 20s and 18s?

    My uninformed estimates would be,

    R20 , drives like it's between 1500-1700kg.....actual weight between 1200-1400kg?, 1200s being for a series 1 manual without airconditioning etc

    [EDIT]
    After a quick look all I could find was,
    <a href="http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Show/9396/r30/techdt20.htm" target="_blank">Technical Data of the Renault 20</a> ,

    It only lists the weight of the 1.6lt model being 1172/1215kg..(auto vs man?, wet vs dry?).....kinda useless, but a very broad idea of what the 2lt might weigh...say within 200kg of that figure? wink

    R18 , i'd be very surprised if they are under 1000kg.....probably 1000kg to 1200kg...

    [EDIT]
    Found some stuff on 18s too
    <a href="http://ptikem.free.fr/techinfo.htm" target="_blank">R18 Technical Information</a>

    Weights ranging from 920kg 1.4lt to 1070kg 2lt with the 1.6 that we got here being between them.......

    That's a pretty light 4dr car for it's size.....gee, i knew turbos were overseas but not 2lts.....the 2lt would have been a torquey, effortless drive

    I'm going to surf for figures
    [EDIT]
    surfed wink

    <small>[ 29 April 2002, 10:44 AM: Message edited by: DTwo ]</small>
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    Last edited by DTwo; 22nd August 2011 at 05:23 AM.

  12. #12
    Guru davemcbean's Avatar
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    The Australia built 1647cc R18 weighed about 950-960kg, depending on transmission, etc.

    In the US they had a 2165cc version of the R18 wagon which was simply badged "2.2 Sportswagon" (sounds like a Subaru, doesn't it?). I saw quite a few of these when I was there in 1995. They have big heavy bumpers and ugly headlights and probably weigh a fair bit more than other versions of the R18.

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  13. #13
    Guru davemcbean's Avatar
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    I think an R18 sedan with R17 TS spec engine and Fuego springs and swaybars would be quite a nice package.

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  14. #14
    Good Sport danielsydney's Avatar
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    sounds to me like the 18 could be the best shot if i want another cheap car one day. I would be keeping the 19 however as long as it doesnt give me too many more issues...

  15. #15
    Simon's Avatar
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    20TS weight, 1260kg + 20kg for auto trans.

    18GTS weight, 950kg + 10kg for auto trans.
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    1969 Renault 8 Gordini 1300
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  16. #16
    Simon's Avatar
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    Realistically the 19 is probably better kept. Spares are probably more plentiful for 19's at this stage, and it is likely to suffer from fewer old car problems. Still think the 20 is a better bet though rather than an 18, at least with one of those you are more likely to have factory aircond and other mod cons. How much is the difference in rego?
    1963 Renault R4 Van
    1964 Renault R4
    1967 Volkswagen 1300 Deluxe
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    2002 Land Rover Defender Td5 130 - ex-CFA Region 4
    2005 Renaultsport Clio 182 Cup

  17. #17
    Good Sport danielsydney's Avatar
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    Maybe next year or so will have to buy an 18 i think that doesnt have all the mod cons that go bung and cost you big dollars....

  18. #18
    Simon's Avatar
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    Hmm, an 18 with 150,000 k's is probably heading for an engine rebuild and clutch replacement. Could also be internal engine corrosion from previous uncaring owners, worn suspension bushes and front end, brake discs etc. No car is cheap to run.
    1963 Renault R4 Van
    1964 Renault R4
    1967 Volkswagen 1300 Deluxe
    1969 Renault 8 Gordini 1300
    2002 Land Rover Defender Td5 130 - ex-CFA Region 4
    2005 Renaultsport Clio 182 Cup

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