This article really only examines mainly the prospect of preparing plastic components for painting, although much of it is also applicable to "tin" (gotta say that when you own a tupperware BX!"
Anyway, have a read & see what you think.

Alan S

Recently, I caused a right royal barney on a Citroen Mailing list when I questioned a
price someone had been quoted to paint a GS; A$3000 for a coat of paint & A$6000
if the owner wanted the rust taking out. The reason I commented on it was that
only a few weeks earlier, someone in the UK had commented that they couldn't
believe the prices we get for the earlier model Citroens, and used as an example
a GS which had just had a beautiful paint job, one owner low miles for $4500, so
to me if this was expensive, what was a paint job WITHOUT the car for $1500
more (or less)?? To say things turned nasty would nearly have to be an understatement.
Personal attacks by people who do not know my history or qualifications &
training could have made the basis for a television comedy program. At the time
I was in the process of restoring a CX which had won a Concourse de Elegance a
few years ago; a project now almost complete & ajudged by those who have seen
its progress to present to comment that they expect its days of winning
Concourses has not finished.
Using this as a backdrop, my thoughts turned to the BX which has a distinct
disadvantage to the GS or CX when it comes to painting; the plastic contained in
its various body parts, & whilst I will recommend reading for anyone interested
in doing their own paint job as it is too involved to go into in detail here,
the prospect of doing the preparation up to a certain point should not phase
anyone.
The results which can be obtained by doing it yourself or the money which
"should" be saved by doing the preparation work are both well worth the effort.
The argument/debate that went on in the mailing list was that a good tradesman
can command up to A$120 per hour. I have no argument with that, but what they
fail to accept is that the A$120 an hour guy does less than 10% of the
preparation work. The ones doing that are on less than A$300 per week but their
labour is charged out at the tradesmans rates in many circumstances. I recently
did a job on a friends Ford & his brother saw it & before asking who did it
commented on the job quality & made comment that he had just had something
similar done on his Mazda at lesser quality for around 3 times the price, whilst
the owner of an XJS Jaguar who had just spent A$12,000 on a paint job, bemoaned
the fact that they didn't know that I could have done a better job for a small
fraction of the price, so the results are worth the effort.
All products mentioned here are manufactures by "Dulux." For the benefit of
overseas people, "Dulux" is an "ICI" company, hence similar formulas should be
available worldwide. Catalogue numbers quoted are there as a guide for your
suppliers & may or may not be the same as those sold in your particular Country;
the description should make it possible for local suppliers to identify the
products.

Basic preparation: Before commencing, the entire area to be repainted, should be
thoroughly washed with a wax & silicone remover (SILICONOFF) & the
manufacturers instructions observed regarding wiping dry after washing over with
this product. This is particularly important if you have used a silicone or wax
based polish over a long period. Rubbing down should be done using a wet & dry
paper no courser than 320 grade on *weather worn* surfaces & 180 grade where
stone chips or flaking paint is evident. Final rubbing should be done using no
coarser than 400 grade paper. ALL rubbing should be done using water as
lubricant & a pure soap (sunlight or preservine) not a scented bath soap held in
a piece of wet rag & allowed to trickle over the surface being worked on is a
handy tip for helping to remove wax residues.
Upon completion of rubbing down the surface should be hosed off & washed with
a clean rag or a chamois. the glass & chrome etc should be masked off. The whole
prepared surface should then be washed over & again wiped dry using "Prepsol" if
large areas of bare metal are exposed, these should be treated with "Deoxidine"
(624: 978 10007)which is a metal treatment to retard rust growth. It is a
dangerous product to use, but handled as per instructions you would have to be
particularly stupid to get hurt, in fact I would go as far as saying you would
have to be trying!
Immediately upon the Deoxidine treatment, paint the bare metal parts with "Self
etching Primer;" (466 42795) This as the name implies, etches (or sticks) to the
bare metal ready to take the primer.
Primer comes in a variety of types, but from a cost & finish point of view, I
have had great success with Dulon "One Shot" Primer/Filler (289 - 45711) This is
a great product & one "the Trade" would prefer you didn't know about. A thin
coat is sprayed on the job to give a complete cover, followed by a thicker coat
to hide the stone chips, sanding scratches etc. This can be sanded using 400 to
800 wet & dry (wet) after which it is again painted with a thin coat. A guide
coat is sprayed over the entire job (usually black & thin) & this is sanded by
hand using a rubber block until only the grey colour of the undercoat of the primer is
showing. REMEMBER, a small blemish in the undercoat looks like a major event on
the finished product.
MIXING RATIO for "One Shot": As a Primer surfacer 2:1 by volume
As a high build filler: 4 : 1 by volume (Equivalent to spray putty)
Prior to painting with top coat, rub down with wet & dry paper no coarser than
800 Grade - Remember: the bigger the number the less coarse the wet & dry paper
(ie) 400 is coarser than 800.

PAINTING PLASTICS:

Where Dulon Topcoat is used over Plastics the following MUST be observed.

Flexible Plastics - ALL Topcoats - Flex. Additive (980 3426)

Mixing ratio: 4 parts topcoat to 1 part additive.
Thinning With Solid top coat
use Dulon thinner (34178) 1 top - 1 to 1.5 thinner

VERY FLEXIBLE PLASTICS: Flex Add (980 34246)

Mixing ratio: 4 parts topcoat to 2 parts additive (2 to 1) Thin as above.

When Primer Surfacers are used, then they must also be mixed with this flexible
additive in the same ratios as for top coats, then thinned in the normal
consistencies. Remember we are talking an additive with this stuff NOT a
thinner; it still has to be thinned as though the additive does not exist.

NOTE: REGARDING TEMPERATURE - When Temp is around 10 - 15 degrees C use Dulon
"Low Temp." thinner (922 34353)
For HOT, Cold or HUMID conditions, replace 20% of Dulon Thinner with Dulon
Retarder thinner (922 05158) NOTE: when using this product it slows down drying
to prevent the paint going "milky" or "blushing" hence greater care has to be
taken to prevent dust, flies & idiots from landing on it or running their hands
across it to see if it's dry when it isn't.

If you would like to try a very satisfying job that relies more on patience &
perfection than on skill & secrets whilst still retaining a sense of achievement
on completion then this is one job you will really enjoy doing. I have painted a
lot of cars in my time & even the ones that didn't come out as well as I planned,
I gained a sense of achievement out of every one of them & I am sure you will
also.
To make things a little easier, I would suggest you go out & buy borrow or hire
the book I recommend below.
From comments I have received in the past, I understand it is available
Worldwide; written by a trade teacher here in Australia, it is the best
reference book I have ever read on a trade subject & is apparently considered to
almost be a bible on the subject.
"Al Probert's Spray Painting motor vehicles in Australia & New Zealand" ISBN O
86777 360 X

I hope you all have as much fun as I have over the years.

A word of warning: some of the products used, contain some fairly toxic
substances which don't do much to increase your life expectancy if you inhale
them. Common sense & a quality anti-toxic fumes mask is a good investment.

BACK | HOME | NEXT TIP>