Here is something I feel should be put in the archive for future
reference. It is a description on how to fit a cam belt to a BX 16V or Mi16
as described by Anders Jensen from Denmark. I have a bit to do with Anders
& he is a full on Froggy Freak from Denmark & a great guy to go with
it.
His mechanical expertise is generally acknowledged in UK & Europe.
Read & enjoy,
Alan S
As long as sensible access is possible to the cambelt, replacing
it is no big problem.
The main problem is to gain a bit more workspace around the RHD engine mount.
This can be done quite simple by removing components preventing
lifting up this end of the engine. Following this procedure makes it easier
:
1) Remove the RHD wheel arch inner plastic shield.
2) Loosen belt tensioners, and remove alternator & LHM pump belts.
3) Have an assistant locking the flywheel starter gear with a large screwdriver,
then remove the crankshaft beltwheel center bolt, and the beltwheel.
4) remove the lower engine mount
5) disassemble the exhaust flexible joint
6) remove the air filter and tubes
Now the engine can be jacked, and the RHD engine mount removed
together with the second lower part, reaching down the engine side.
Carefully start lifting the engine, observing any components/hoses/pipes are
not overstressed.
Now it's possible to remove all parts of the cam belt cover, by lifting/sinking
the engine as necessary.
Once the cambelt is accessible, find some WHITE typing correcting
ink, clean the crancshaft and the 2 camshaft beltgears, mark up the edge of
the
belt relative to 1 tooth on all 3 beltgears. Be sure both the belt and all
3 beltgears are marked positively to each other, for a 100% sure refit.
Best done by marking 1 tooth on beltgears, and the 2 corresponding teeths
on the belt.
Now loosen the tensioner, and remove the belt.
Place the new belt on a table, and place the old belt inside
the new. Observe the arrows for belt running direction. Transfer markings
from the
old belt to the new belt exactly. Doublecheck correct marking on new belt,
by counting the teeth between the markings on both belts.
Now you have your own universal, exact, fool-proof assembly
reference for the new belt. No worry about timing marks, aligning timing marks,
correct locking dowels etc etc.
Simply fit the new belt according to the markings you now have on the belt
& beltgears.
Refit the crankshaft beltwheel to hold the belt on the beltgears.
When commencing work, clamp the belt against the beltgears, not to allow the belt to slip a tooth or 2, during tensioning.
No need to worry about timing (if you did the markings correct !), it will be just like before.
When the belt is tensioned, turn the engine at least 4 full
rev.s, to allow the belt seating correctly on the gears.
You can remove the sparkplugs, remove the connection to the ignition coil,
and let the starter motor run the engine several turns to seat the new belt.
Check and retension the belt if necessary. It should be tensioned like a good
working generator belt on the longest run.
What's left now, is a belt "run-in", letting the engine
idle for 30 min. This will flex and soften the belt, making a last retension
necessary.
DO NOT SKIP THIS !
Do not overtension the belt, use your common sense and sensible handforce,
no brute forces are needed.
The workhours needed should be about 2hrs, provided you do'nt run into other problems.
Good luck.
C U
