replacement of lower mount on 205? how to?
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts djvu205's Avatar
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    Default replacement of lower mount on 205? how to?

    can the lower enine mount be changed in the car. its the one in the bracket near where the drivshaft goes through it at the lower back part of the engine. whats the easiest procedure to replace it? i do have a spare bracket. it looks like it needs to be pressed out and back in?

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts PugMonkey's Avatar
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    I have had a god look at mine over the past couple of weeks. Nocking it out and cutting the external ring would be OK but it looks like it would be a press fit. Having said that, when I had the Si, I know my mechanic fitted a new one to pass road worthy and I'm sure the bracket was not removed so maybe they can be knocked in.
    ....now watch a Peugeot turn into a corner!

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    It's far easier and quicker to remove the bracket and press out/in a new one.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts djvu205's Avatar
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    thanks guys will tackle it this weekend and see how i go. the reason i think i need to change it is that when i drove the car for the first time it seems that the motor is extremely loose even with the top two mounts replaced. upon start up the accelorator pedal moves up and down and when driving it and the motor hunts it starts to eccentuate and the rpms go plus/minus 500rpm to the point where i have to accelatrate or throw the clutch to smooth it out. if i replace the lower bush and the fork that is in that area im hoping this will fix it that problem? anyone had this happen before? visually it doesnt look like there is anything wrong with the mount but it could be broken? havent jacked it up and had a good look or feel yet.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterT View Post
    It's far easier and quicker to remove the bracket and press out/in a new one.
    +1 Agreed


    Press replace the bush on your spare bracket so you have a changeover ready to save on downtime.

    Lower engine mount condition can be checked by levering the blockside mount bracket against the 90 degree torque rod on the cross member side, opening any cracks if there are any.

    1. Wheel off
    2. OPTIONAL - remove driveshaft nut (35mm). (I recall removing a 205 driveshaft from the gbox without removing the nut and looping the bracket over the gbox end. [be wary not to damage the diff seal and/or abs wire]
    2. Ball joint out
    3. 2x 11mm for driveshaft bearing
    4. 4x (maybe 5x?) 16mm for bracket
    5. Remove driveshaft
    6. Changeover bracket or press remove engine mount (mount alignment is important)
    7. Reassemble

    Gil

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    I think the most important to remember is that you need good access under the car for all this. A hoist is ideal.

    You would need to loop the bracket over the g'box end of driveshaft anyway, because it is not going to come out the other way (bearing in the way).

    Pressing the mount out is a barstard. You need something strong to do it and something strong to support it. I used a 20 ton press (el cheapo) and a cylinder sleeve I had lying around to support it square whilst providing an escape route for the mount I was pressing out. Mine was broken out already, but I would imagine you would rip the core out anyway if you tried to push against it to press it out. My advice (and the way I did it) is to get some round thick steel thing of the exact right diameter to bear against the mount metal crown, otherwise you're stuck. I used a machined piece of flat steel, but a suitably sized ballbearing race would be just as good. I couldn't find one in my pile of stuff though.

    Once extracted, I used this crown to press the new mount in, and I'll keep it for future operations.

    Be careful, the mount is pressed in one way (I can't remember if through the g'box end or the wheel end, but once the old one is pressed out, it will be apparent).
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

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  7. #7
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    I turned up two tools. One to support the bracket in the press, and another to push on thin OD section of the engine mount.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterT View Post
    I turned up two tools. One to support the bracket in the press, and another to push on thin OD section of the engine mount.
    That's exactly where I was headed when it ocurred to my I might be able to use the cylinder liner I had.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  9. #9
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    The old mount can be taken out easily without a press by removing the center and hacksawing a few mm off one side.

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobomacho View Post
    The old mount can be taken out easily without a press by removing the center and hacksawing a few mm off one side.
    That's true, but I didn't like the prospect of scouring the aluminium bracket. Also, you can't reuse the steel crown to push the new mount in. This is what made me give up that idea.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobomacho View Post
    The old mount can be taken out easily without a press by removing the center and hacksawing a few mm off one side.
    Interesting you say that. The tool I made to press it out is made from an outer ring. I cut 1mm out of it and welded it back together, then added something more substantial to push against. Reducing the perimeter by 1mm makes a perfect clearance.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts Capago's Avatar
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    I pressed my old mount out with the new group N one as the tool

    two birds with one stone
    The wrong oil is better than no oil at all.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capago View Post
    I pressed my old mount out with the new group N one as the tool

    two birds with one stone
    Hacksaw out and just use the vice to press it in a segment at a time. The whole thing is pretty soft and goes in easily even if it goes crooked and you have to start again.
    Easier than normal suspension bushes I found.
    Lauree, don't reckon the problem is the bush, if the pedal is moving the cable outer probably isn't mounted correctly.
    Graham

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by djvu205 View Post
    thanks guys will tackle it this weekend and see how i go. the reason i think i need to change it is that when i drove the car for the first time it seems that the motor is extremely loose even with the top two mounts replaced. upon start up the accelorator pedal moves up and down and when driving it and the motor hunts it starts to eccentuate and the rpms go plus/minus 500rpm to the point where i have to accelatrate or throw the clutch to smooth it out. if i replace the lower bush and the fork that is in that area im hoping this will fix it that problem? anyone had this happen before? visually it doesnt look like there is anything wrong with the mount but it could be broken? havent jacked it up and had a good look or feel yet.
    Top 4 mounts you mean, the two buffers are more important than the other two bushes.
    Graham

  15. #15
    1000+ Posts djvu205's Avatar
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    the bottom was worn but left it for now as it is not broken or cracked. it was the the other mounts, under battery and the buffers that were causing most of the problem i have packed them for now until i get round to ordering some new ones.

    Graham the cable does seem to be loose as i can slide the outer case back and forth over the throttle cable. will be checking that next.

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