Further to my engine hitting the master cylinder
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts PugMonkey's Avatar
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    Default Further to my engine hitting the master cylinder

    I have been having trouble with my cam wheel (not the cover, the actual cam wheel) hitting the maser cylinder under full load. I have done some brain storming and have followed a few suggestions I have received on here.

    One was to make a plate to go under the gear box mount to raise the passenger side of the engine so the cam wheels move away from the MC



    This would have done the job and it fitted well but the mounting bolts were not long enough to go through the 5mm plate and the gearbox mount and still put the nuts on....Whilst having the mount out I got the height measure from a new one v's the one I had. The mount i had was squashed to a point greater than 5mm of plate anyway so - new mount please.



    Then I was thinking of ways to give me a few more millimeters at the cam wheel end. Someone suggested to pack washers onto the back of the buffer so made up a plate to go behind the buffer which certainly reduces the engines movement.







    Then an idea came to me to drop the engine a little more (when your scratching for space then every bit helps). I cut a plate to go in between the two cast mounts. I used 2mm plate but looking now after its done I could have gone a little more







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    I'll have a play over the weekend let you know how it all goes.

    Also put one of these bushes in the lower engine mount fork.
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    Moo
    Last edited by PugMonkey; 17th June 2011 at 10:13 AM.
    ....now watch a Peugeot turn into a corner!

  2. #2
    al
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    Magic sells a shorter top engine mount. Escorts come with a similar style mount that works well too, but is a fraction short so needs shimming up in order to keep things level.

    If you want to level it properly i have a shortened gearbox stud somewhere that i'm not using. My car is quite low so with the engine dropped down 25mm things were getting a bit close...
    405 Mi16 - Sold - Now back
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  3. #3
    1000+ Posts PugMonkey's Avatar
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    Thanks Al, that's very nice of you. I'll see how I go with this lot. By using the shorter gearbox stud, this in affect raises the gearbox more or is it used in conjunction with magics mount?

    Thanks,
    Moo
    ....now watch a Peugeot turn into a corner!

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! deltone's Avatar
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    I have one of magics shorter engine top moumts, clears the master brake cylinder fine with the cam cover on! I also have brand new standard bottom and gear box mounts. So the idea of the spacer inbetween the enge and top mount bracket shouod do the trick.
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  5. #5
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    The VibraTechnics engine mount is the way to go. It can be disassembled and faced off in a lathe to reduce the overall height. I managed to reduce one from 75mm down to 65mm.

    '92 205 Mi16
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    Default Group N mounts

    When I did the Mi16 conversion on Casnell's rally car I just used Group N engine mounts, the engine is sitting in its normal position and giving no problem.
    Grahami

  7. #7
    al
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    Quote Originally Posted by GRAHAM WALLIS View Post
    When I did the Mi16 conversion on Casnell's rally car I just used Group N engine mounts, the engine is sitting in its normal position and giving no problem.
    Grahami
    They all seem slightly different - i think it requires assessment on a case-by-case basis.

    I think Peter's solution sounds the most elegant. I might look into that next time i need a mount, as Magic's one works well, but if anything lowers the engine too much. I've had to shim it up again to get the driveshafts off the subframe
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  8. #8
    1000+ Posts PugMonkey's Avatar
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    Well what I have done seems to have done the trick. I put some blu tack around the plastic cam belt cover leaving it about 4mm proud (like a blu tack sausage). With less movement and now a correct angle, I have no contact marks on the blu tack surface.

    I was thinking of the Group N mounts if this didn't work. I had a similar set of mounts when I put an RB25DET in a 240K but seeing out the rear vision mirror was not easy to do so I'm happy with the way it turned out. I'll keep an eye on it and watch for sag.

    Off now to put on some new rear discs, pads and a seized handbrake cable.

    Thanks for all the suggestions and input. I do appreciate it all.

    Moo
    ....now watch a Peugeot turn into a corner!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by PugMonkey View Post
    Well what I have done seems to have done the trick. I put some blu tack around the plastic cam belt cover leaving it about 4mm proud (like a blu tack sausage). With less movement and now a correct angle, I have no contact marks on the blu tack surface.

    I was thinking of the Group N mounts if this didn't work. I had a similar set of mounts when I put an RB25DET in a 240K but seeing out the rear vision mirror was not easy to do so I'm happy with the way it turned out. I'll keep an eye on it and watch for sag.

    Off now to put on some new rear discs, pads and a seized handbrake cable.

    Thanks for all the suggestions and input. I do appreciate it all.

    Moo
    Yes, I went through a few $18 each driving light globes in my Lightforces when I never have any problems in the 203 running a higher voltage, so can only assume vibration. Changed globe brand hope that's fixed the problem or I'll be down to the headlights next Saturday night.
    Graham

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! deltone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by al View Post
    They all seem slightly different - i think it requires assessment on a case-by-case basis.

    I think Peter's solution sounds the most elegant. I might look into that next time i need a mount, as Magic's one works well, but if anything lowers the engine too much. I've had to shim it up again to get the driveshafts off the subframe
    When i bought mine from magic he told me about the height... He said, "If its to high you cant lower it, if its too low you can always shim it up with some simple spacers..." i quite liked that idea.

    But after seeing what pugmonkey worked out in this thread... I like it.... You can lower the engine while still using the original mount for low vibration and street use conversions.... Thanks for sharing the idea.
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  11. #11
    I might be slow... DRTDVL's Avatar
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    I used very solid rubber from a rubber disc in the plumbing section for the backing plate of the top mount buffer so as not to effect the bodywork of the car...

    Whats the ground clearance like for the sump Peter when you've dropped your top mount

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts Kim Luck's Avatar
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    Last time my master cylinder hit the engine was when my car hit something else really hard. Fortunately I'd used all the brakes up before I hit so it didn't make any difference really!
    Don't it always seem to go that you don't know what you've got 'til it's gone............

  13. #13
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    ....Similar to a small electrical fault I had once.

    A Nissan Rb25det had a fault where no power was getting to the starter motor. it turned out that the positive terminal was knocked out of place buy the piston & conrod combination that had dislodged out the side of the engine.

    ...Sparky said not to bother with the repair, as a more noticeable problem was the flywheel that was lodged half way through the transmission tunnel that nearly dissected my left foot.

    I like to try and not remember those times.....
    ....now watch a Peugeot turn into a corner!

  14. #14
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    That shim under the mount on the engine is exactly what my car has, although its just some thick washers and not a nice plate. Works though.
    Lets just say we have a few pugs about!

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