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  1. #1626
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    Anyone know of a good portable ball joint/suspension bush press?

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  2. #1627
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    You mean a tool the pop the taper and remove the ball joint?

    There isn't one on the market I've found that fits the Renault ball joint properly; and you risk damaging the rubber boot in any case.
    I find the best way is to put it up on axle stands; take the wheel off so that the weight of the disc and control arms help with gravity.

    Release the ball joint nut a few turns (but not take it off - this can be tricky if it spins in the ball joint); then hit either side of the steering arm with two hammers at the same time adjacent to where the taper is. Be careful to hit the arm, and not the ball joint or nut. If it doesn't work first time, find two bigger hammers!

    edit - if it still has the original ball joints, they will be rivetted to the control arms. This must be ground off carefully with a grinder down to the point where you can use a pin punch to push it out. Again, be careful to not take too much meat off the control arms with the grinder. Replacement ball joints will be bolted on with bolts and nylocs supplied with the ball joint.
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  3. #1628
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    Default Pipe flarer

    G'day,

    here's one to steer clear of, Haron HFT250.

    Tool Talk-hft250.jpg

    Saw this at the green shed and wanting one that I can use in confined etc spaces, I opened the wallet. Wow, have this lot taken a quality brand name and trashed it, the design is pathetic.

    Someone must have told them that if they reduced the section of the anvil block they could save 20 cents a unit. The block is about 27mm wide, which reduces to about 25mm as they have kindly taken off all the sharp edges. The holder it "sits" in with the screw & flare former has a gap of 35mm, yep, that's 8mm of "slop", and the open gap is 20mm.

    Which means that you have to juggle this bloody thing with 2.5mm of holding grip on each side of the mogrel....

    All for the sake of extra 5mm width on the anvil....

    At least the look like it's hardened former is loose on the screw and has a drop of grease in it, they got that bit right.

    And, as Murphy will tell you, the screw forming bit wont fit onto their old time bash it anvil, that anvil has lots of meat.

    cheers,
    Bob

  4. #1629
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    Non eccentric flare tools are rubbish.

    In larger size tubes they tend to crack the copper.

    Get a decent tool,

    Tool Talk-rigid-flare-tool.jpg

    Ebay, Chinese rip offs are a reasonable second choice.

    EDIT: There are two flare standards in common use,

    JIS 37 degree, used in hydraulic and fluid power industries

    SAE 45 degree, used in plumbing and air conditioning.
    Last edited by robmac; 30th April 2018 at 03:06 PM.
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  5. #1630
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    Ken it is the KOAK brand! I don't worry about rust like that unless it causes issues. It's coated in heavy oil and the teeth on the jaws are sharp. I do use Fertan where required if it's a tool I'll use a lot.

    The really upsetting thing is that over the years my Dad's tools were pilfered from his garage by tradies etc. and before we realised half were gone. He had a lifetime's worth of all sorts. Worst was he fitting and turning micrometers, calipers, dial guages etc. all stolen. I remember this beautiful British made micrometer in a steel case lined with felt which was just a thing to behold. But even now I say, oh, Dad had one of those and realise it's gone (I inherited the remainder). Very upsetting.


    Quote Originally Posted by Kenfuego View Post
    Not really as mine are still shiny, but Stuey's will respond to light wire brushing or steel wool to clean it up and then a spray of WD 40 will keep it nice, but the tool will work fine like it is..

    The Super Erasor works best on flat rusted objects

    Ken
    Last edited by Stuey; 3rd May 2018 at 01:21 PM.


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  6. #1631
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    As mentioned a few weeks ago, I've now received my EW10J4 timing belt locking tools from Hong Kong. They're really good, and for AU$14 with free postage delivered in about three weeks, a screaming bargain. Ordered on 16 April, received today and with tracking. Top notch.

    Seller is called supperdeal (not super, supper).

    Attachment 105632
    Last edited by Stuey; 3rd May 2018 at 01:13 PM.


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

  7. #1632
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    Vida XL also sell a set of Peugeot/Citroen timing belt engine locks to cover virtually all the FWD engines About $50 from memory when I bought my set.

  8. #1633
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    Yeah, I saw the bigger sets for about $60+ on eBay but I'm trying not to clutter the shed with things I won't use in blow molded cases. I would've looked at those for sure if it was likely I might use the other bits.
    Last edited by Stuey; 3rd May 2018 at 05:53 PM.


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  9. #1634
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    What engineering tools do you really miss, Stuey? I have a few multiples.

    Roger

  10. #1635
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuey View Post
    Ken it is the KOAK brand! I don't worry about rust like that unless it causes issues. It's coated in heavy oil and the teeth on the jaws are sharp. I do use Fertan where required if it's a tool I'll use a lot.

    The really upsetting thing is that over the years my Dad's tools were pilfered from his garage by tradies etc. and before we realised half were gone. He had a lifetime's worth of all sorts. Worst was he fitting and turning micrometers, calipers, dial guages etc. all stolen. I remember this beautiful British made micrometer in a steel case lined with felt which was just a thing to behold. But even now I say, oh, Dad had one of those and realise it's gone (I inherited the remainder). Very upsetting.
    yeah I'd be peed off if that happened, I have lots of inherited tools, many that were made up in a tool shop to do a particular job & the purpose is long forgotten, regarding the Fertan, is that still as good as the original, as the last lot I purchased was well watered down, nothing like the original bottle purchased years ago. It is actually just a boiled down bracken and somewhere in WA there is supposed to be an original distillery that produces the stuff, but I have never found out the location.

    I'd love to get some original style Fertan. great stuff.

    Regards.

    Ken.

  11. #1636
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    Thanks Roger, but no worries it was more the fact that they were my Dad's. All sorts of things and all made in the UK (he was a fitter and turner for BMC in Longbridge). So there were quite a few nice tools made in the West Midlands; other than the precision tools, things like little hammers, wooden handled screwdrivers, a hand made axe made in the factory, etc etc all nicked. Just irreplaceable stuff.


    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Wilkinson View Post
    What engineering tools do you really miss, Stuey? I have a few multiples.

    Roger


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

  12. #1637
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    Fair enough, Stuey.

    Roger

  13. #1638
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    I don't know if they are still available but the SNAP ON guy had, for free, various clever stickers for your tool box. One in particular read..
    "The bloke who lends tools doesn't work here any more".
    I was looked upon as being a bit odd at work,why? because I locked up my toolbox every night at knock off time.
    A request from our service manager to leave our boxes open so that he could borrow tools. WHAAATT !
    I recall some of the apprenti had SNAP ON kits worth big $, over time they would be decimated by borrowers, mainly workmates.
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  14. #1639
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    What do you do about your kids?
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  15. #1640
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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    What do you do about your kids?
    Lock your workshop or tool box.
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  16. #1641
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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    What do you do about your kids?
    That is easy .... My father just waited until I lost and destroyed ever tool he ever owned.... Then didn't replace them. Now he laughs everytime he borrows a tool from me ..... Promising if it comes back.... It'll be butchered (or run over by the mower as it was left in the grass outside next to a paddock bomb).
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  17. #1642
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    Ha ha, my son bought me a 3/8" socket set recently from Total Tools so I can't complain! Good quality own branded lifetime warranty, 72 tooth ratchet. Almost matches our favourite tiny Sidchrome set, Shane!


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  18. #1643
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    G'day,

    Quote Originally Posted by Wildebeest View Post
    ....... I was looked upon as being a bit odd at work,why? because I locked up my toolbox every night at knock off time......
    can get fussier than that...

    Fella I used to live over the road from was an airframe mechanic, his stuff was not only locked up but every tool had an allocated position and every drawer was checked before knocking off.

    Well, you wouldn't want to be on a plane miles in the air I guess with rampant 'tings sliding around amongst delicate stuff...

    cheers,
    Bob
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  19. #1644
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuey View Post
    Ha ha, my son bought me a 3/8" socket set recently from Total Tools so I can't complain! Good quality own branded lifetime warranty, 72 tooth ratchet. Almost matches our favourite tiny Sidchrome set, Shane!
    Yes, but did he destroy every tool you ever owned as well Lets just hope my kids don't want to go near tools in the future .......
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  20. #1645
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    My Sidchrome 3/8 set is also my favourite go to set. Perfect for 8-13mm. And the 10mm socket is always there waiting for me!

    Whenever I need to get one of the 1/2” Sidchrome sockets out of the drawer I sigh a little. Mind you, I doubt I’ve ever used the smaller half of the 3/8 set.

    My spanners are all Sidchrome too, but I have some cheapies too that I’m happy to grind and modify etc as required for special jobs.
    As I’ve got older, I have been buying and using ratchet spanners - both mini and full size. Both Sidchrome and cheapies (as the Sidchrome ones are too dear to justify a full set). I find I head for those whenever possible for convenience, helps with the arthritis I suppose.
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  21. #1646
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    My Sidchrome 3/8 set is also my favourite go to set. Perfect for 8-13mm. And the 10mm socket is always there waiting for me!

    Whenever I need to get one of the 1/2” Sidchrome sockets out of the drawer I sigh a little. Mind you, I doubt I’ve ever used the smaller half of the 3/8 set.

    My spanners are all Sidchrome too, but I have some cheapies too that I’m happy to grind and modify etc as required for special jobs.
    As I’ve got older, I have been buying and using ratchet spanners - both mini and full size. Both Sidchrome and cheapies (as the Sidchrome ones are too dear to justify a full set). I find I head for those whenever possible for convenience, helps with the arthritis I suppose.
    Most of mine are Sidchrome, some decades old now. I have a truly lovely Japanese 3/8" ratchet driver though, with a mix of sockets of fair to very good quality. I had some cheap 3/8" ones and gave them to the kids across the road as the chrome started falling off so easily and the ratchet drive was offensively cheap and nasty.

    I've recently discovered how much you can do with 1/4" drive too and the 1/2" drive units are starting to feel very clumsy for things smaller than wheel nuts and crankshafts!

    We broke a 1/2" breaker bar recently, trying to undo the Citroen CX front hub nut for a driveshaft boot job. You need 3/4" drive and a bar at least 1-1.5 m long to undo them - and/or a good rattle gun. Amazingly tight. Still, they have a bit of load and it is a heavily engineered drive system!!
    JohnW

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  22. #1647
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Most of mine are Sidchrome, some decades old now. I have a truly lovely Japanese 3/8" ratchet driver though, with a mix of sockets of fair to very good quality. I had some cheap 3/8" ones and gave them to the kids across the road as the chrome started falling off so easily and the ratchet drive was offensively cheap and nasty.

    I've recently discovered how much you can do with 1/4" drive too and the 1/2" drive units are starting to feel very clumsy for things smaller than wheel nuts and crankshafts!

    We broke a 1/2" breaker bar recently, trying to undo the Citroen CX front hub nut for a driveshaft boot job. You need 3/4" drive and a bar at least 1-1.5 m long to undo them - and/or a good rattle gun. Amazingly tight. Still, they have a bit of load and it is a heavily engineered drive system!!
    just go to you local sunday market .... 1" 3/8ths from memory == 35mm and a 3/4" bar. 1/2" breakers bars are a bit scary. They fell like they and going to break as the flex to much. You can actually buy 35mm impact sockets in 1/2" very cheaply these days on ebay (about $12 from memory). Then all you need it a bar and a length of water pipe and your set

    seeya,
    shane L.
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  23. #1648
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    Icon14 A few grippers

    Must have got a round-tuit, here are a few gripper tools I have accumulated, over the years, rarely used, but handy to have around.

    I think one of them goes back to blacksmith and horseshoeing days... Must put up a pic of a few vintage carpentry tools one day.. also

    Tool Talk-few-grippers-.jpg

    ken.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tool Talk-few-grippers-.jpg  

  24. #1649
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    Can't edit out the 2nd image...

  25. #1650
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    JohnW - your post jolted my memory (and poor imperial knowledge). My favourite Sidchrome set is in fact 1/4”, not 3/8.
    That’s why it only does up to 13mm.
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