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  1. #1476
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    Icon12 Saving of effort, and out of sight out of mind! Well hopefully.

    Shane when I was young and fit I removed a row of huge Cypress trees that had been planted as a small ornamental hedge, but too close together. Lopping them in stages and allowing them to fall without harming anything other than the poor homeless birds that apparently nested in them. Felt guilty as they circled the "missing" bits, but what was done had been, in the days when you could remove anything from your suburban block without the local council and nosey greenies kicking up a shine. Initially left about 8 ft of trunk on each, so that after digging out around the roots and trimming I could leverage the main stump out of the ground.

    These days you could use one of those hand wood carving cutters on the base of the green stumps to reduce them below ground level, but as I remember how hard I worked on each one, I would tend to carve a hole large enough to burn one out at a time, but not in high summer time. As for your asthmatic, a nicely constructed chimney and mounded earth around the base of the scrap steel chimney might redirect the slight smoke from the underground burnout of the roots.

    The thing to watch of course is collapse of the ground along the line of the roots as that could be hazardous to young children as they played in the yard, but boy that would cost much less in terms of money and labour. And one at a time over the years would get the worst out of the way.

    I would volunteer to come and help by leaning on a shovel......

    Regards

    ken

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    Even in the 60s there were tree preservation orders. Where I am, stump burns need a permit, and they aren't given in summer months. There will be conditions on the permit, similar to a pile burn.

  3. #1478
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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    Even in the 60s there were tree preservation orders. Where I am, stump burns need a permit, and they aren't given in summer months. There will be conditions on the permit, similar to a pile burn.
    I'm on acerage so the council can't stop me burning... I think the permits etc come if if you live xxx meters from neighours on xxx sized block. Obviously I can't have a fire on a total fire ban day though I have no interest in burnign them due to the quantity of them. I've watched the youtube videos of burning them. Its still days of work and smoke 15 times over.

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    I'm only a New South Welshman, but council rules, both fire and pollution, apply to the whole shire, including acreage, and the CFA certainly has a say with rural land. Check with the local CFA. A phone call will get it straight. Here pile burns have rules and smouldering stump burns are not desired.

  5. #1480
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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    I'm only a New South Welshman, but council rules, both fire and pollution, apply to the whole shire, including acreage, and the CFA certainly has a say with rural land. Check with the local CFA. A phone call will get it straight. Here pile burns have rules and smouldering stump burns are not desired.
    I just looked up the council regulations. if you have more than 2000sqm of land, you don't need a permit. there is 4046sqm in an acre, so if you have acerage, you don't have an issue.

    I'm not concerned about total fire bans either. If it its dry enough there is a total fire ban, there is no way I'd light a fire of any type either way.

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  6. #1481
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    G'day Shane,

    at this time of year they're pretty blunt about it here at Skip, "no fires in the open without a permit". These fire ban periods are created by the shires, nothing to do with the fire ban days declared by the CFA, and usually run from late November to early May.

    Which coincides with Lake Goldsmith steam rallies, early November and late May...

    http://www.ballarat.vic.gov.au/media...yonthefarm.pdf suggests that City of Ballarat also declares a fire ban period like here, in the sticks... The flier suggests that the land size limits you found are for outside of the fire ban period.

    Gotta watch stump fires though, at any time, the buggers burn underground for days 'n days !!

    cheers,
    Bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by bob View Post
    G'day Shane,

    at this time of year they're pretty blunt about it here at Skip, "no fires in the open without a permit". These fire ban periods are created by the shires, nothing to do with the fire ban days declared by the CFA, and usually run from late November to early May.

    Which coincides with Lake Goldsmith steam rallies, early November and late May...

    http://www.ballarat.vic.gov.au/media...yonthefarm.pdf suggests that City of Ballarat also declares a fire ban period like here, in the sticks... The flier suggests that the land size limits you found are for outside of the fire ban period.

    Gotta watch stump fires though, at any time, the buggers burn underground for days 'n days !!

    cheers,
    Bob
    Yes, like I said, there is no-way I would ever try to burn them this time of year! You don't need regulations if people have some common sense

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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  8. #1483
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    Hi Guys,

    has anyone tried the cheap battery chargers you can buy these days

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12v-24v-...item4ad090893d

    this webshop is in ballarat. That sounds to be a nice grunty battery charger Last time I tried to charge the battery in one of my cars (after the interior light ran it down) I found I'd killed both of the cheap smart chargers here ( I don't think they can handle discharged batteries. they prefer to top of partially charged batteries).

    I'm back to using the old power supply I made years ago as a battery charger again ....

    seeya,
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    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

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  9. #1484
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    G'day,

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    ........

    I'm back to using the old power supply I made years ago as a battery charger again ....

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    probably a good move, provided you can limit the current and/or voltage to sensible limits.

    SWMBO, last winter, laid up her electric trike - but forgot to turn it off, result, three totally knackered SLA batteries...

    The all too clever by 'arf intelligent chargers here refused to look at the batteries so I ended up getting a new trio of cells, which kept the peace. Radio Parts, on the doorstep the next day for about $100, nice service.

    Since then I have purchased a similar item to this one....
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-30V-1...y/201890892067
    and decided to give it a go on the knackered SLAs. Well, it has gently brought the cells back to life, and the 'intelligent' chargers now know what they are, amazing stuff....

    cheers,
    Bob

  10. #1485
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob View Post
    G'day,



    probably a good move, provided you can limit the current and/or voltage to sensible limits.

    SWMBO, last winter, laid up her electric trike - but forgot to turn it off, result, three totally knackered SLA batteries...

    The all too clever by 'arf intelligent chargers here refused to look at the batteries so I ended up getting a new trio of cells, which kept the peace. Radio Parts, on the doorstep the next day for about $100, nice service.

    Since then I have purchased a similar item to this one....
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-30V-1...y/201890892067
    and decided to give it a go on the knackered SLAs. Well, it has gently brought the cells back to life, and the 'intelligent' chargers now know what they are, amazing stuff....

    cheers,
    Bob
    Wow ... is that really a regulated variable voltage 10amp power supply for those sort of $$$ Do you know how much regulated power supplied used to be!

    If you have deeply discharged a battery, you need a simple of "dumb" transformer type battery charger to try and bring the battery back tot he point where a modern smart charger will try to charge it (ie: bring a 12volt battery back to at least 11volts).

    I have an old 6 amp transformer charger ... But I've lent it out at the moment to someone so they can try to recover a deeply discharged car battery.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


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  11. #1486
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Wow ... is that really a regulated variable voltage 10amp power supply for those sort of $$$ Do you know how much regulated power supplied used to be!

    If you have deeply discharged a battery, you need a simple of "dumb" transformer type battery charger to try and bring the battery back tot he point where a modern smart charger will try to charge it (ie: bring a 12volt battery back to at least 11volts).

    I have an old 6 amp transformer charger ... But I've lent it out at the moment to someone so they can try to recover a deeply discharged car battery.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    I sacrificed all the complexity of regulated, staged, p!ss elegant, chargers.

    And took the lazy man's approach as suggested by Peter T.

    My charger is transformer out of 500w UPS, with a 50 amp bridge rectifier on the 12 volt winding.

    It's good for for around 35 amps at 14.5 volts.

    I control the charge rate with a Clipsal light dimmer on the 240v input of the transformer. I do have an Emi filter, ex a microwave oven, on the mains too.

    Works a treat and is so simple with very little to fail. It cost me next to zero , because I picked up the parts during a local hard rubbish collection.

    It all fits inside the UPS case and the existing heatsinks cool the bridge rectifier and the existing fans cools the the case and transformer.

    You need to add a voltmeter and ammeter (both ex DIY wreckers) and keep an eye on it when charging.
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  12. #1487
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    I sacrificed all the complexity of regulated, staged, p!ss elegant, chargers.

    And took the lazy man's approach as suggested by Peter T.

    My charger is transformer out of 500w UPS, with a 50 amp bridge rectifier on the 12 volt winding.

    It's good for for around 35 amps at 14.5 volts.

    I control the charge rate with a Clipsal light dimmer on the 240v input of the transformer. I do have an Emi filter, ex a microwave oven, on the mains too.

    Works a treat and is so simple with very little to fail. It cost me next to zero , because I picked up the parts during a local hard rubbish collection.

    It all fits inside the UPS case and the existing heatsinks cool the bridge rectifier and the existing fans cools the the case and transformer.

    You need to add a voltmeter and ammeter (both ex DIY wreckers) and keep an eye on it when charging.
    that sounds ideal for a fast charger. these days you can buy a smart charger for aldi for about $30 if you just want to top up batteries in seldom used vehicles (eg: mowers over winter)

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


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  13. #1488
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    Icon14 I can recommend this Projecta battery charger after several years of use.

    Shane

    My son purchased a "Projecta" 7 stage automatic 8000mA Battery charger (Part # IC1208) a few years back, as all of my battery chargers don't handle the "newer" modern calcium batteries that well, it has a battery recondition feature that claims to "bring drained batteries back to life increasing performance and battery life. Suitable for calcium batteries" also the 7 stage charging technology "maximize battery performance and life.

    He allows me to be the custodian of the charger so I can recharge his Porsche 944 battery regularly, as it was not designed for running sound systems and other extraneous stuff that our youth need to keep their driving experience happy

    It works really well and will mostly get expired and dead flat batteries back into operation. I used to use an old 10amp charger for this purpose to jolt the battery back into life with the older style Lead acid batteries. The Projecta charger can be left connected to trickle charge when required as it automatically turns off when the battery is charged "with no risk of damage to the battery" www.projecta.com.au is the website

    Leads etc. pack into the rear of the charger case, neat and easy.

    I also purchased one of those Aldi trickle chargers when on special as "someone" recommended in an earlier A/F post. it was cheap and also works well, but doesn't have the features of the Projecta unit.

    Not sure what the current pricing is, I think my son paid something like $120 buying it over the internet.

    Ken

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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    I sacrificed all the complexity of regulated, staged, p!ss elegant, chargers.

    And took the lazy man's approach as suggested by Peter T.

    My charger is transformer out of 500w UPS, with a 50 amp bridge rectifier on the 12 volt winding.

    It's good for for around 35 amps at 14.5 volts.

    I control the charge rate with a Clipsal light dimmer on the 240v input of the transformer. I do have an Emi filter, ex a microwave oven, on the mains too.

    Works a treat and is so simple with very little to fail. It cost me next to zero , because I picked up the parts during a local hard rubbish collection.

    It all fits inside the UPS case and the existing heatsinks cool the bridge rectifier and the existing fans cools the the case and transformer.

    You need to add a voltmeter and ammeter (both ex DIY wreckers) and keep an eye on it when charging.
    Sure you have enough amps? Great stuff. Of course, it helps that you know what to keep that eye ON during charging!

    I was given a new 6V/12V transformer charger, neither bells nor whistles, with an ammeter built in, about 30 years ago. It's great for rare needs like totally dead batteries, which happens once in a while, and as a cheap and cheerful 6V or 12V source for checking things. I've found my you-beaut one has its limitations, but nice for connect and (almost) forget charging.
    JohnW

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  15. #1490
    COL
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    We use CTEK at work, there are not cheap but seam to do the job well.

    https://www.ctek.com/au
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    Regards Col

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  16. #1491
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    We use CTEK at work, there are not cheap but seam to do the job well.

    https://www.ctek.com/au
    all the caravaners rave about CTEK as well. I just want big, grunty and dumb.... especially if it has "jump start" functionality. I can buy small smart chargers really cheaply these days if I want to upkeep a battery. eg: the tractor battery would probably take a couple of day to charge with a small smart charger.

    Robs version of a battery charger sounds great. The last thing I need is another project that will never get finished though!

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

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  17. #1492
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    a smart charger for aldi for about $30
    Been there done that.

    It f*cked up after the requesite 111/2 months and was refunded in full.

    Aldi electronics= short term use.
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  18. #1493
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    Been there done that.

    It f*cked up after the requesite 111/2 months and was refunded in full.

    Aldi electronics= short term use.
    Yes, but smart charges are everywhere ... and not expensive. They will not charge dead flat or large capacity batteries in any sort of reasonable time period though ... Usually by the time I realise I have a flat battery .... I NEED it charged. ( Wouldn't it be nice to always have 2days warning that you battery is going to be very flat ).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

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  19. #1494
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    Hence a charger that has the capacity of a small alternator. I can have a working battery again in 30 mins or less.

    Who cares if I need to check t every 10 minutes or so.

    You must have UPSs with dead batteries laid on from your work. And something 500w-1000w capacity is the ideal basic for a serious battery charger.

    The hardest part is figuring out the transformers windings.
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  20. #1495
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    I sacrificed all the complexity of regulated, staged, p!ss elegant, chargers.

    And took the lazy man's approach as suggested by Peter T.

    My charger is transformer out of 500w UPS, with a 50 amp bridge rectifier on the 12 volt winding.

    It's good for for around 35 amps at 14.5 volts.

    I control the charge rate with a Clipsal light dimmer on the 240v input of the transformer. I do have an Emi filter, ex a microwave oven, on the mains too.

    Works a treat and is so simple with very little to fail. It cost me next to zero , because I picked up the parts during a local hard rubbish collection.

    It all fits inside the UPS case and the existing heatsinks cool the bridge rectifier and the existing fans cools the the case and transformer.

    You need to add a voltmeter and ammeter (both ex DIY wreckers) and keep an eye on it when charging.
    Ooh ! Here's my cue.

    Over the past few years I have been to numerous garage sales and collected about four old battery chargers very cheaply. I already had one that is 8 amps. The garage sale chargers are all 4 amp ones. In the event I need a battery charged rapidly I was hoping to connect them in parallel.

    I once asked a techie if this would be ok, but he indicated that (for some obscure technical reason) the strongest one would predominate and (for want of a better description) edge the others out of the way....the end result being that I would not get 16 amps.

    Rob, I do not have the knowledge you do but can wire up basic electrical stuff safely. Do you think that perhaps this might be the way to do it ? .....If I disconnected the rectifiers from transformers in them all, I would then connect all the transformer outputs in parallel.
    Then connect all the rectifiers in parallel.....then wire the collective transformer output to the collective rectifiers ?

    If not, and without meaning to impose on you too much, perhaps you could describe in (very) plain language for an electrical novice how to connect them together ?

    I'm not sure what an EMI filter is but will look it up. And I do have a light dimmer.

  21. #1496
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beano View Post
    Ooh ! Here's my cue.

    Over the past few years I have been to numerous garage sales and collected about four old battery chargers very cheaply. I already had one that is 8 amps. The garage sale chargers are all 4 amp ones. In the event I need a battery charged rapidly I was hoping to connect them in parallel.

    I once asked a techie if this would be ok, but he indicated that (for some obscure technical reason) the strongest one would predominate and (for want of a better description) edge the others out of the way....the end result being that I would not get 16 amps.

    Rob, I do not have the knowledge you do but can wire up basic electrical stuff safely. Do you think that perhaps this might be the way to do it ? .....If I disconnected the rectifiers from transformers in them all, I would then connect all the transformer outputs in parallel.
    Then connect all the rectifiers in parallel.....then wire the collective transformer output to the collective rectifiers ?

    If not, and without meaning to impose on you too much, perhaps you could describe in (very) plain language for an electrical novice how to connect them together ?

    I'm not sure what an EMI filter is but will look it up. And I do have a light dimmer.
    If you want to use multiple transformers they need to connected in parallel.

    And it's generally not a good idea unless they are absolutely identical.

    If it were me I'd look for scrapped UPS and rob the transformer from that.

    Every Panasonic microwave has a emi filter similar to this:

    Tool Talk-panasonic-emi-filter.jpg

    And they are gold for removing the "EMI noise" that a light dimmer creates when switching the transformer primary. Put them in series with mains supply prior to the dimmer.

    Friendly advice, unless you are completely comfortable building mains powered devices - don't.

    Any price for a commercial charger will be cheaper than "repairing" the personal injury you can sustain if the project turns pear shaped.

    I've learnt when to run. And where not to put my fingers.

    Ideally your light dimmer needs to be rated at least 2000w(va) and "leading edge " (forward phase control) type dimmer.
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  22. #1497
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    The other issue with paralleling up transformers is to make sure that the are in phase with each other, if not you will have circulating currents in the secondary windings.

    Here is a link with all the things that need to happen to parallel transformers.
    Parallel Operation of Transformers | electricaleasy.com

    Like Rob says just find one that is big enough for the task.
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    G'day Shane,

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Wow ... is that really a regulated variable voltage 10amp power supply for those sort of $$$ Do you know how much regulated power supplied used to be!....

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    yep, and very pleased with it.... But - not really much good for a fast charger. It took a day to deal with each of the three SLA batteries.

    You can set the max volts and current you desire with the two knobs and the built in 'puter takes over talking to each as necessary - you can see which one is being "controlled" via the two LEDs next to the knobs. One whinge I'd have with it is the elcheapo terminals that are on it, but then I'm an old fart bought up with proper terminals... usually from the UK, not China

    And chucked out microwaves, as Rob says, some really useful stuff in there - including the transformer, sans existing secondary, great basis for little spot welder or resistance soldering unit... BUT, also stuff to bite the unwary....

    cheers,
    Bob

  24. #1499
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    The major issue I've had with multiple parallel , in phase transformers is failure.

    One transformer always seems to have different winding resistance and either takes more or less load.

    When it takes more load, it can heat and fail, without warning, leaving the other transformers overloaded.

    The solution is connect the secondary windings is series, so the power supply fails if one transformer fails.

    Series connection is not possible in Beano' scenario.

    That is why I'm suggesting a single transformer.
    Mutual Respect is Contagious


  25. #1500
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    I wonder if roger has a guitar to spare

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tool Talk-chainsaw.jpg  
    'Cit' homepage:
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    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

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