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  1. #1351
    bob
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    G'day,

    I'm pretty fond of metal wiper inserts. Great for releasing internal clips on stuff, nice 'n stiff but not as bulky as a screwdriver. Also good for making fishplates for garden railways I'm told

    Picked up a little pad-handle at Aldi the other day for hand holding jigsaw blades, in a little plastic box to make it easier to find amongst all the other 'handy bits' one accumulates....

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    cheers,
    Bob

  2. #1352
    1000+ Posts Fordman's Avatar
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    Default Dual action oil filter tool

    Picked this one up today. Saw it a few months back but had to wait until I had measured diameter of all the filters I am likely to need it for on various family/friend cars. As it turned out it fits all of them.
    I am finding it more difficult to use the old lever/clamp type these days as there is minimal room around most filters, so I wanted the end clamp type. I had one already, but it didn't expand to all sizes, and could only undo the filter, no help in installing new one. OK, some will say you only tighten by hand, but sometimes I can hardly get a decent grip and am struggling to turn it the required amount.

    This one does 63-102mm filters, in both directions. I think the the design is quite ingenious. Probably been around for years, but I hadn't come across one. Purchased at Auto-One, about $30. Yet to prove that it works.

    Tool Talk-oil-filter-tool_1.jpgTool Talk-oil-filter-tool_2.jpg
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  3. #1353
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    Yeah, they have been around for a while. The other variation has the bits that grip onto the sides of the filter made from knurled round stock, so the knurling will grip no matter what size the filter is. I reasearched them a while back and worked out they were the best, apparently, but I ended up with one of those cup type because three of my cars have the same sized Purflux filter.
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  4. #1354
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    I went Aldi last Saturday and bought one of their plastic welders on sale for $24.xx
    I was a bit sceptical but thought for the price I had nothing to lose. Already used it twice to repair rare R8 air vents.

    Seems to work Ok for small jobs.
    KB


  5. #1355
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    Default plastic repair & filter spanners

    G'day,

    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    I went Aldi last Saturday and bought one of their plastic welders on sale for $24.xx
    I was a bit sceptical but thought for the price I had nothing to lose. Already used it twice to repair rare R8 air vents.

    Seems to work Ok for small jobs.
    my favourite for cracks in plastic is stripped out copper from house wiring zig-zag back 'n forth along the crack and pushed into the plastic with a small soldering iron.

    Used all those filter spanners, best ones are the socket spanner type by far, the handled Purflux one is OK too, the rest work.... errr.... sometimes.

    cheers,
    Bob

  6. #1356
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fordman View Post
    Picked this one up today. Saw it a few months back but had to wait until I had measured diameter of all the filters I am likely to need it for on various family/friend cars. As it turned out it fits all of them.
    I am finding it more difficult to use the old lever/clamp type these days as there is minimal room around most filters, so I wanted the end clamp type. I had one already, but it didn't expand to all sizes, and could only undo the filter, no help in installing new one. OK, some will say you only tighten by hand, but sometimes I can hardly get a decent grip and am struggling to turn it the required amount.

    This one does 63-102mm filters, in both directions. I think the the design is quite ingenious. Probably been around for years, but I hadn't come across one. Purchased at Auto-One, about $30. Yet to prove that it works.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I've had one for many years... the best one is the most compact ones ... 3/8ths not 1/2" To change a CX oil filter you just use two long 3/8ths extension bars from beneath (so it's a piece of cake! ).

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuey View Post
    Hagglund, I have three of those inherited from my Dad, if you mean the ones that are a cylinder of solid metal with a 1/2" drive sticking out the end that can be set to turn either way by turning the drive end. Hold in one hand and whack the end with a socket on the other end driving the nut. Mine have screwdriver bits as well, like most I've seen. All good quality, but can't remember the brands. As I wrote above, though, I was concerned about whacking the crank longitudunally in case it damages something.
    That's an impact driver for getting out tough Philips screws on motor bike cover screws.
    You hit on end like a punch

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  8. #1358
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    How frustrating is this ... This just popped up on the facebook groups .... Only $100 ... I could fix up all the drains aroudn the yard with it .....Tool Talk-digger.jpg



    The only reason I'm not down there using it now .... it 'cos it's in bloody Numurkah Victoria.

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  9. #1359
    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
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    That' s cheap for a drain spinner. But you can borrow mine for free. They make a neat spoon drain but do throw dirt everywhere.

    Roger

  10. #1360
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Wilkinson View Post
    That' s cheap for a drain spinner. But you can borrow mine for free. They make a neat spoon drain but do throw dirt everywhere.

    Roger
    I should have known Roger would have one somewhere. I need to fix the drain across our fence line to stop the paddock flooding. I might run shallow spoon drains from the shed run-off over to it as well. In theory it should still be easy to mow, and people/livestock shouldn't fall into them if the spoon shape is large enough.

    Of course, in 6weeks time when it's all dry, I'll forget about this until .... well next winter when it's all saturated again... and is so wet I can't even park a car on it!

    seeya
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    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

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  11. #1361
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    Earlier this year, Roger found me some tools to play with at one of his friends places.... A post hole digger and grader blade. While we were there I spotted what might have been a flail mower in the shed as well..... Not only that ... it appeared to have finishing flails ... so is exactly what I'd want .... Sure .... it's on the "very" big side, but bigger is better right ??



    I figured it's a hell of a bargain for a couple of hundred dollars. It's way more substantial than it looks. It was bloody hard to get of the trailer ... The tractor picks it up quite a bit slower than a 5foot slasher ... it must be a good 500kgs...

    I picked it up with the engine crane so I could have a good look at the flails.... Hmmm....






    I wouldn't be surprised if these are the flails it left the factory with .... There is quite a few missing (the bolts have worn right through). There is two brand new pairs of flails there, the rest are all bent and broken.





    This is what they should look like..... Hmmm.....

    So I sat back and looked at it again ..... and started counting ..... Bugger me ... there is 76 pairs of flails. That means I need 152 flails .... So even if I find them dirt cheap ... say $5.00 a blade .... We are looking at $760 + bolts + delivery from the source.... Hmm...... So I thought "that'll teach me for not doing my homework before buying something" and chucked it in the back corner of the shed.

    Anyway, I've been going bloody crazy ... bored out of my brains for the last few weeks, stuck in a holiday house 10minutes drive from our place..... I couldn't really work on any of the cars, as we need to shed for furniture storage... So I started searching for flails online.

    FLAIL MOWER BLADE KIT 1329005 FOR LAWN GENIE 6000FM 7200FM 8800FM | eBay

    I emailed this guy and said "I have a bomford turner turbomower ... it needs 152 flails, do you have the extra 12 flails"... He did and said he would throw them in for free. So for $350 delivered I had a full set of flails for the mower. They are 1cm shorter than the flails the mower should have (so the tip speed of the cutting edge will be a bit slower).... and I had to grind the back edge of each one down ....





    It was a hell of a job. Whoever had been using the mower had been hammering the blade mounts into the ground in an attempt to get it to cut with broken and bent blades.... Maybe it was used for cutting rocks Anyway, I had to straighten all 76 blade mounts, weld up about 1 dozen of them. And drill them all out to 10mm so I could use standard 10mm high tensile coach bolts from the local bolts and bearings place.





    It runs really smoothly and quietly. This is the worst possible thing to cut cleanly. I pretty much needed pontoons on the tractor. Infact I made a hell of a muddy mess driving on the grass. It is so wet I can't take anything other than the tractor with its big tires onto it... The blades beat up a hell of a vapour cloud of water .... this is also full of onion grass.... Yet it still cut it cleanly as shown. I was amazed to find it cut all the onion grass off cleanly ( yeah don't worry, I went back 10minutes later and the onion grass was all standing up straight again .... sigh ... the rear roller had just flattened it out ... .does any mower in the world cut onion grass ?).



    The main thing I noticed is I didn't scalp the hell out of the ground in all the places that slasher, ride-on and push mowers hit the ground (eg: over all the sewerage run-off trenches). The flail mower just rode over them all and didn't touch the ground. I don't think it's down to the huge rear roller, I reckon it's the lower link pins "float" so allow it to roll over the ground independently of the tractor. So a 2.25meter wide mower can cut ground, my push mower can't cut without scalping

    seeya,
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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tool Talk-flail12.jpg   Tool Talk-flail11.jpg   Tool Talk-flail10.jpg   Tool Talk-flail9.jpg   Tool Talk-flail8.jpg   Tool Talk-flail7.jpg  

    Tool Talk-flail6.jpg   Tool Talk-flail5.jpg   Tool Talk-flail4.jpg   Tool Talk-flail3.jpg   Tool Talk-flail2.jpg   Tool Talk-flail1.jpg  

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  12. #1362
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    Now is the time to mark where the drains need to go with some stakes, while you can see where the water is lying. Then cut them in a few weeks when it is drier but you can still remember where they need to go.

    Roger

  13. #1363
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Wilkinson View Post
    Now is the time to mark where the drains need to go with some stakes, while you can see where the water is lying. Then cut them in a few weeks when it is drier but you can still remember where they need to go.

    Roger
    Thanks Roger,

    Yes, I think I'll make a map. The question is will fixing the main drain (the previous owners have half filled in) down the back fenceline ... fix the other issues at the same time My father came down to look at the house last weekend, and we stood there watching water flow (slowly) down the drive.... He said "I wonder how much water should came down the hill just from rain So we walked up the drive to find no pipe under our the drive where the storm water drains run down the street ... so the water runs down the storm drain at the front of our house .... hits our drive and comes down the drive. Same deal with the partially filled in storm drain across a back fence line.

    I'm going to put a pipe under the drive in the next few weeks, but it's only a minor thing. Last time we had torrential rain and half of town was flooded, I followed the water around the paddock ... it doesn't actually flow down the existing drains ... it flows down past the back of the carport and sheds ( who'd downpipe add to it).

    I'm going to fix up the yard over the next 12months ... remove the last of the pine trees ( I need to get the tree feller back in for that .. I'm *not* dropping them myself ) and remove the carport to open the yard up a little. We hoping to do a small house extension as well. If I can make the house nice enough, it should keep the family happy for the next couple of decades I hope

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

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  14. #1364
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    speaking of tools .... guess which tools I thought "Must have now" as soon as I spotted the plaster being removed from our house ....



    I had to look at youtube to figure out how to use those crimping and testing tools correctly. It's certainly not obvious just by looking.

    I wonder what the builders will think when they turn up and find 300meters of LAN cabled through half the rooms of the house .... I'd NEVER have done this if thye hadn't removed the plaster ( running wires down walls sucks big time ). I've even going to run 3 long lengths of cable to the back of the house ... and just leave sitting in the roof. So if we do extend at some point, the LAN cabling to can ran through the extension as well without fishing wires through the walls. I'm going to wire the surround sound speakers too

    seeya,
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    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

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  15. #1365
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Just be aware of regulation clearances from main cables and other hazardous services.

    FWIW data and telephone cabling is a prescribed activity and ideally is carried out by a licensed cabler.

    https://www.acma.gov.au/Industry/Tel...istered-cabler

    I'd at least get a copy of the "Wiring Rules" AS/NZ S009 .

    Getting wires behind plaster (without insulation ) is not hard. Drill the top plate and use some shower chain and coat hanger to hook the chain. Beware of open power points when using the shower chain.


    Removing the plaster seems an overkill.
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  16. #1366
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    Just be aware of regulation clearances from main cables and other hazardous services.

    FWIW data and telephone cabling is a prescribed activity and ideally is carried out by a licensed cabler.

    https://www.acma.gov.au/Industry/Tel...istered-cabler

    I'd at least get a copy of the "Wiring Rules" AS/NZ S009 .

    Getting wires behind plaster (without insulation ) is not hard. Drill the top plate and use some shower chain and coat hanger to hook the chain. Beware of open power points when using the shower chain.


    Removing the plaster seems an overkill.
    Oh yeah, I'm running it away from the mains ... I see the aeriel wiring and cable wiring has been "professionaly installed" ... ie: run through the same holes in the frame and along the power wiring ...... well it is the easiest way to get cables down walls without plaster. If you follow the power wiring there will not be any noggins in the way!

    I still hate fishing wiring through walls It's right up there with trying to fix exhausts laying on my back under cars!

    BTW: Shower chain scares me ... I don't know what dodgy 240volt wiring is in those walls.... I'm using chalk line with a small socket tied to the end of it

    They have only removed 1 sheet height from the walls, so I still need to climb into the roof space and fish through the walls.... it's bloody easy finding your line when the lower part of the wall plaster is missing !


    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Last edited by DoubleChevron; 19th September 2017 at 03:50 PM.
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    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

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  17. #1367
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Sharing "holes" mains wiring is highly illegal.

    You can't observe the separation requirements.

    It take 30 seconds to drill another hole and be compliant.
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  18. #1368
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    Sharing "holes" mains wiring is highly illegal.

    You can't observe the separation requirements.

    It take 30 seconds to drill another hole and be compliant.
    tell the professionals who installed the aerials, austar etc..... I doubt there is an issue from the 50hz waveform. it would be more incase you managed to liven up the cabling with some 240volts power. The insulation on data cable isn't designed for that.

    seeya
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    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


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  19. #1369
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Let me tell you a story about foxtel cabling sharing stud holes with mains cables.

    In a house where my company did the alarm and data cable (but not the cable TV or antenna wiring) the owners 4 year old son was "zapped" touching a foxel point.

    The ACMA "enforcer" contacted our business and we showed our records , including images of our work. Which was all compliant. We were in the clear

    It turned out the electrician, quoted a lot less than us for cabling foxel and antenna cabling. However the cables shared holes with mains cables.

    The owner had "hit the jackpot" when hanging a picture on the wall and pierced both active of the mains cable and the braid of the foxtel cable. All the foxtel wiring was livened up to 240volt.

    The ACMA insisted on a full inspection which resulted in all the plaster being removed from the extension.

    Regulations generally have a good reason for coming into existence. And complying with them is usually not too difficult.

    Licensed electricians should be banned from all data comms cabling. Because they generally have no mindset to keep data and comms cables segregated from mains cabling.

    And are generally blissfully ignorant of S009.
    Last edited by robmac; 19th September 2017 at 04:59 PM.
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  20. #1370
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    The sparkies know 3000 off by heart, and it's clear on these issues. They have no excuse for separation errors.

  21. #1371
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    BTW: Shower chain scares me ... I don't know what dodgy 240volt wiring is in those walls.... I'm using chalk line with a small socket tied to the end of it
    The installer who installed extra Foxtel point in the house used yellow tongue (the yellow tongue strip used in flooring boards, Bunnings sell it separately, quite cheap) brilliant for running up the wall cavity on outside walls where there are no nogging.
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  22. #1372
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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    The sparkies know 3000 off by heart, and it's clear on these issues. They have no excuse for separation errors.
    AS 3000 Never had any mention of separations/ segregation from data and telephone wiring.

    As far as Chief Electrical inspector was concerned S009 might as well not existed.

    AS NZS 3000: 2000 Amendment 1.2 was the first electrical standard to mention segregation/separation of data, telephone, Audio visual and cable TV wiring.

    This is a recent standard published in 2000 and many of the older electricians probably used the AS 3000 updates as toilet paper. Because many are still blissfully unaware.

    The trend today is use apprentices to do the "rough in" wiring. And they are more focused on what hangs between their legs and doing the work as fast as possible than complying with rules on a "bit of paper".

    The big trouble with electrical work these days is a total lack of care factor and the introduction of "self regulation" .

    I faced the issue daily, when I was "in the industry".

    And being able to recite regulations off pat doesn't create the mindset to comply with them.


    Edit:
    Fortunately, the mandatory introduction of Earth leakage breakers means it quite difficult to kill the locals. So fatal accidents seldom happen these days.
    Last edited by robmac; 19th September 2017 at 06:46 PM.
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  23. #1373
    COL
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    To do any of this type of work you need to be a registered cabler or be under the supervision of a registered cabler.

    https://www.acma.gov.au/Industry/Tel...istered-cabler

    Just my worth on this issue.
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  24. #1374
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    Rob, I could have said AS NZS 3000: 2000 but like many others I have the habit of abbreviating standard and code names. Your experience differs from mine as I never met an electrical contractor like that, but I wasn't ever involved in housing.

  25. #1375
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    To do any of this type of work you need to be a registered cabler or be under the supervision of a registered cabler.

    https://www.acma.gov.au/Industry/Tel...istered-cabler

    Just my worth on this issue.
    I'll be buggered... Who doesn't run there own LAN and speaker cabling .... that's bizare. I used to work as a network technition about 20years ago ... certainly I didn't have any registration back then. we just used the old coax type cabling with terminators back then.

    Oh well, I'll file it under "I don't give a shit" ... just like when the waterboard told me on the phone it was illegal for me to change my own tap washers and I had to get a licensed plumber in.

    seeya,
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    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

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