Engine Break In
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Thread: Engine Break In

  1. #1
    1000+ Posts Damien Gardner's Avatar
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    Engine Break In

    Some time ago this subject was broached in another thread. At the time i sugested drive it hard from the start as i have done this method for all my yrs of driving. I also mentioned a web site for race tuning that gave an engineering based explanation to support this theory, I finally found it amongst my files, it is primarily Race Bike oriented but he applies the theory to cars as well, He has someamazing views on flowing and porting of heads. All in all a damn good read.
    <a href="http://www.mototuneusa.com" target="_blank">http://www.mototuneusa.com</a>

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    Health and good fortune always,
    Damien.

    We rode on the winds of the rising storm,
    We ran to the sounds of thunder.
    We danced among the lightning bolts,
    and tore the R10's assfromunder.

    Robert Jordan & memyself&I

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  2. #2
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    Good read,
    Backs up a story on modified Clio sports, out of I think about 8 modified Clios and a stocker, the car with the most kW was the stock unmodified one that had been run hard from day one.

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Pugnut403's Avatar
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    My father always runs a newly rebuilt engine in by doing a 20-30km run in which he repeatedly goes from 20km/h to 80km/h and back again. The theory behind this is that the rings bed in better if the speed is raised and lowered fairly quickly. Most of the engines he has rebuilt are still going strong years after.
    After the initial bedding in period, he always runs the engine for 80-100km without lugging the engine or revving it hard, to let everthing settle a bit, and reccomends no thrashing for the next few hundred kms.
    It is the initial few kms that make all the difference, but treating it kindly for a bit after that also helps. 2_cents
    Pugs Rule!

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  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Damien Gardner's Avatar
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    This is a contentious issue, if you read the article, i refered to it explains why, as you say the first few km are important. The point being not to bed the rings in at all, but to remove the honing marks on the cylinders trying to achieve the best possible ring to cylinder fit.
    The explanation given states that if you treat it gentle that's all the engine will be good for & will give years of service, if you wish to use the full potential rpm, range the motor will last much longer doing so, if you run it in as he describes.
    cheers!
    Health and good fortune always,
    Damien.

    We rode on the winds of the rising storm,
    We ran to the sounds of thunder.
    We danced among the lightning bolts,
    and tore the R10's assfromunder.

    Robert Jordan & memyself&I

    1/48th Scale Alpine A310,
    N-scale 1/160th Renault & Citroen, Advert. Signs & Billboards

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Interesting stuff - did anyone read the one "Motoman" wrote about the small porting? that'd be good to try...

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts Damien Gardner's Avatar
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    Yes very interesting, i subscribe to his newsletter it dosen't appear very often but always full of interesting ideas. cheers!
    Health and good fortune always,
    Damien.

    We rode on the winds of the rising storm,
    We ran to the sounds of thunder.
    We danced among the lightning bolts,
    and tore the R10's assfromunder.

    Robert Jordan & memyself&I

    1/48th Scale Alpine A310,
    N-scale 1/160th Renault & Citroen, Advert. Signs & Billboards

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! MYT205's Avatar
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    I'm one of those who believe that if you want your engine to be a goer, you've got to drive it like that from day one. I don't mean threash the living hell out of it but drive it like you normally would.

    When my engine is all back together and I'm running it in I'll be giving it some stick here and there as I believe if you don't, it will always stay tight. I've done this with all my previous cars and they have always gone very well and never had any problems. Of course regular maintenance (ie oil changes every 10,000km, 5000km for the Pug) makes a big difference as well.

    Darren

  8. #8
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    Hi all,
    I am very interested in this thread.... seems that alot of you tried this method and revved the engine to the redline for the first 100-200KM with no troubles....but, is there anybody here who DOESN'T share this opinion (and what was written in that article?)

    Is there any comments on how this may be bad in some cases or is it ALL GOOD for a new modern engine to rev it up. I dont understand why more ppl are not doing it if thats the case.
    *********A.K.A Eddy W*********
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    92 PUG 205 GTi SIII Race Green... gone..gone..gone..

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts Damien Gardner's Avatar
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    I was using this method for 30 yrs before i found the motoman web site, and along the lines he advocates, i use a light engine oil for the first 50 km then change oil & filter. My reasoning being if your removing the honing marks from the bore & seating the rings, there will be hard metal particles floating within the oil, when run in, in this fashion the main job is done by the 50k mark.
    REgardless of run in proceedure there will be hard metal particle suspended within the oil, these have the potential to cause wear, in all bearings, valve gear etc.
    cheers!
    Health and good fortune always,
    Damien.

    We rode on the winds of the rising storm,
    We ran to the sounds of thunder.
    We danced among the lightning bolts,
    and tore the R10's assfromunder.

    Robert Jordan & memyself&I

    1/48th Scale Alpine A310,
    N-scale 1/160th Renault & Citroen, Advert. Signs & Billboards

  10. #10
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    Damien, I sent the Motoman URL to a mate whose bro races in the national 600cc production bikes. Well, what I didn't know is that he'd been in touch with Motoman for about 18 months now, and using his methods with success. I've just asked whether he's tried the breaking procedure successfully (they get the latest new bike sent from Japan every season).

    It does seem to be targeted at new engines with close production tolerances and he specifically mentions ultra fine honing marks, though.

    Stuey


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts Damien Gardner's Avatar
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    Stuey,
    For sure i agree with that. The method i use when re-building an engine is to hone with medium grit stones followed by fine and finally i removed some stones from their holders and replaced them with high density felt, when this is used with diamond polishing paste, almost all the honing marks are removed i leave a small amount to bed the cast iron rings in.
    Before the advent of diamond paste, my technique involved wrapping the hone with progressively finer wet & dry sand paper bathed in very light machine oil.
    ie, 600, 800 & 1200 grit papers. This was a slow tedious process, the diamond paste certainly speeds it up. cheers!
    ps. The felt seal used on R8/10 transaxles works well.

    <small>[ 29 May 2003, 06:22 PM: Message edited by: Damien Gardner ]</small>
    Health and good fortune always,
    Damien.

    We rode on the winds of the rising storm,
    We ran to the sounds of thunder.
    We danced among the lightning bolts,
    and tore the R10's assfromunder.

    Robert Jordan & memyself&I

    1/48th Scale Alpine A310,
    N-scale 1/160th Renault & Citroen, Advert. Signs & Billboards

  12. #12
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    Good tip, re: the diamond paste. Where do you get it? I've only ever used wet & dry, like you, but I stopped at 800.

    Stuey


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts Damien Gardner's Avatar
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    Stuey
    I work part time, servicing metalworking tools it's used to lap close fitting parts and was supplied from Germany with Trumpf Spare parts.
    However it should be available from Major Engineering Supply houses such as J.Blackwood & sons. I think they have a branch in WA, i recall sending repaired tools to them.
    Good luck locating it.

    <small>[ 31 May 2003, 10:28 AM: Message edited by: Damien Gardner ]</small>
    Health and good fortune always,
    Damien.

    We rode on the winds of the rising storm,
    We ran to the sounds of thunder.
    We danced among the lightning bolts,
    and tore the R10's assfromunder.

    Robert Jordan & memyself&I

    1/48th Scale Alpine A310,
    N-scale 1/160th Renault & Citroen, Advert. Signs & Billboards

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts Damien Gardner's Avatar
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    Stuey
    Another supply source could be a Bearing specialist
    Health and good fortune always,
    Damien.

    We rode on the winds of the rising storm,
    We ran to the sounds of thunder.
    We danced among the lightning bolts,
    and tore the R10's assfromunder.

    Robert Jordan & memyself&I

    1/48th Scale Alpine A310,
    N-scale 1/160th Renault & Citroen, Advert. Signs & Billboards

  15. #15
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    Thanks Damien.


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

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