Lowering 306 XR
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! PULS8R's Avatar
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    Lowering 306 XR

    I NEED to get my 306 lowered for better handling. I will soon be getting some new tyres also.

    I have done some research and the only springs that I can get are Eibach. I have rang a few places: city peugeot in nth melb, car shine, top performance, advantage and they have quoted me $300 to $330 for front springs only offering a 25-35mm drop (they all said a different thing). Fitted and torsion beam adjusted they want around $600.

    I was considering replacing my shocks with konis, but I've read that the normal suspension will do with such a small drop. The left strut has been replaced not long ago, and the right side seems fine.

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    Andreas, where is tru track? I searched online yellowpages and couldn't find it.

    My friend knows quite a bit about cars and could help me install the springs and we could give the torsion bar a try (using a couple of online manuals) I also have a haynes manual. Is it a good idea todo myself, or should I give it to someone else todo. Ofcourse, if I can't do it myself, then I will go and get it done at a shop.

    Anyone have any other tips? While I'm doing the springs should I uprate bushes as well and where can these be obtained?

    I'll be adding to this post as I have plenty of other questions to ask
    1995 306 XR

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Andreas's Avatar
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    Trutrack Pty Ltd
    52 -62 Leveson St
    North Melbourne 3051
    (03) 9326 5392

    speak to Ralph, tell him Andreas sent you....actually it might be better if you dont roll_lau

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! PULS8R's Avatar
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    Thanks for that, it's right near my work. Also close to where I got the left strut etc done. Carerra motors I think. I'll call them up tomorrow and maybe go down there if they have time.
    1995 306 XR

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! Andreas's Avatar
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    like i said in the other post, they might not be the cheapest but they certainly know how to work on pugs and have plenty of traqk setup experience.

    they'll make sure you're happy with the results before they give you the car...when they first lowered mine it wasn't low enough for me, then it was too low...i eventually let them finish the job. cheers!

    and there's a cafe there aswell in case you feel like lunch or a coffee.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts Warwick's Avatar
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    I second that opinion, Ralph is great.
    "Now my dream lies shattered like the shards of a broken dream"

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts brenno's Avatar
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    I'm not convinced that lowered springs is the smartest thing to do on standard dampers. I've heard people say that it's fine on a Peugeot, but I think there are better options available.

    In fact....changing the springs would be one of the last things I would consider changing.

    If your perception on good handling includes little body roll and firm ride - go for it. I tend to think the outright dynamics are more important and would prefer something that rolls like a bitch....*if* it did the right thing at the limit.

    I would investigate....in order; Tyres, wheel alignment, 15" rims, upgraded anti-roll bars, dampers (I would do these first if they are worn)......springs last.

    Having driven identical cars back to back with standard suspension - and then lowered springs, I can tell you the standard stuff is absolutely amazing, and you would have to try pretty damn hard to get a better setup.

  7. #7
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    And to carry on from macquered, tyres seem to be the biggest thing with 306's. macquered has standard 15" Peugeot wheels with RE711 tyres, and his car performs and handles amazingly well! And I haven't even been in it - only *trying* to keep up behind him!

    Another point to note is GTI124 just raised his 306 back to standard height and is much happier with its handling now than when lowered.

    Derek.

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts brenno's Avatar
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    Psst - I have the standard 14" pleb rims =)

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! PULS8R's Avatar
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    I have the stanard pug 14" rims with 175/65 Michelin Certis on them atm, still from the previous owener. I need 2 new tyres for the front, and 2 "good" new tyres is all that I can afford atm. I was thinking of getting Yokohama A539s, although heard they wear quickly, so have thought about getting Goodyear F1s. I will put these on the rear and the rear onto the front, then buy 2 more and rotate again.

    How would I upgrade the anti-roll bars?

    Maybe this post should've have been titled how to improve 306 xr handling.
    1995 306 XR

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! PULS8R's Avatar
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    macquered is your car lowered? Because the rear in this pic looks very low compared to mine, the front looks lower also.

    <img src="http://www.aussiefrogs.com/gallery/images/macquered3.jpg" alt=" - " />

    compared to...

    <img src="http://www.peugeot-gti.net/photopost/data/506/2062car5-med.jpg" alt=" - " />
    1995 306 XR

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts brenno's Avatar
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    Nope - I just parked it on a hill for the photo. Everything about the suspension in my car is standard.


  12. #12
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    14" wheels? They're not too plebian :p

    Parking the car on a hill is very pleb like though!

    Reminds me of the line of 306's bobbing on their rear suspension on Epping Road that night Have to do that again ha ha ha

    Derek

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! PULS8R's Avatar
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    Haha, the looks you get while "bobbing" at the lights.

    My car does go down at the back when parking down hill, but definately not that much. Even with about 30kg worth of speakers and MDF my car doesn't go that low. The N5s must have a different setup. No wonder it's so easy for me to get the back out.
    1995 306 XR

  14. #14
    2000+ Brad's Avatar
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    You will find that if you pull the handbrake on with any foward momentum, including allowing the engine to pull the car foward when shutting off, the rear suspension will drop quite a bit.
    B to the R to the A from the D
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  15. #15
    1000+ Posts Warwick's Avatar
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    If I was lowering an XR, I would get the bits from an XSi. WHatever the hell the bits are. The factory suspension is so good, it's do nicely.
    "Now my dream lies shattered like the shards of a broken dream"

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger! PULS8R's Avatar
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    I've considered getting the rear beam from a late model XSi, however just the beam without the discs etc costs $800. I'd need to supply new discs, calipers, handbrake lines etc.
    1995 306 XR

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger! PULS8R's Avatar
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    Does anyone know if I can fit uprated torsion beams from an XSi to my XR drum brake rear beam?
    1995 306 XR

  18. #18
    who? when? huh? GTI124's Avatar
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    Yup, I'd agree with Macquered there. The standard setup is VERY good, and I'd be ensuring that your setup that you have is as good as it can get before changing things, otherwise you'd end up doing what I did and reverting back to standard and am still not 100% happy as the rear setup is 2 years old than the brand new front end, so they're a bit out of synch with each other. I'm sure it'll sort itself out in anohter 6 months when the fron end sags that little bit more.

    As for tyres, those RE711s are awesome, shame they don't make them anymore. The Dunlop FM901s I am running don't come in a 14...I don't "think". I'd stay clear of the A539 and F1 (unless it's the latest GS-D3 tread design, which I'm 99% sure doesn't come in a 14"). See if Yoko make the AVS ES100 in your size as I reckon these would be better than the consumer oriented A539. Otherwise, I'd choose Goodyear Revspec over F1. The Michi Certis aren't a very well reknown tyre in the handling stakes, so my thoughts are this should be the fiest thing to rectify. My other tip is if you do find a tyre that makes a significant difference (like the RE711 for MAcquered), then buy a bunch as spares. 14" and even 15" are getting rarer in a ultra high perforamce tyre.
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  19. #19
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    GTI124:
    The Michi Certis aren't a very well reknown tyre in the handling stakes, so my thoughts are this should be the fiest thing to rectify.
    Lincoln,
    Remember who was ahead of you the other night :p Guess what I have.. Michelin Certis. Not the best but that's what's on the car and they do 'alright'

    They are definately more inclined towards comfort though.

    Derek.

  20. #20
    who? when? huh? GTI124's Avatar
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    That's because I left my pensioner card at home :p
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  21. #21
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    Hi Guys
    Dont have a 306 but i do have a 405Mi16 which has recently been fitted with Yoko ES100 tyres. They are handling superbly in dry, give very good steering response and are quiet. Haven't had much wet weather since fitting to check wet performance. Previous tyres were Conti EcoContacts, which were excellent. Grippy in wet and dry, a bit noisier than new Yokos, and good wearing(from hard driving). The big plus with Yokos is stiff sidewalls. My size is 195/55R15. If you can buy em in 14", I would recommend them.
    Cheers
    Don mallet

  22. #22
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    there is a bloke in the nsw trading post that has a set of spax springs for a 306 he wants to get rid of for $80
    you can always call him if you wanted them and talk to him about them
    he also has a strut brace for a 306 as well
    if you can't find the add let me know and i'll post his number or send it to you if you like
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  23. #23
    1000+ Posts CHRI'S16's Avatar
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    Guys as most of you know ive already done the suspension mods, on my car, and im going against the flow here but my S16 feeds back so much more on the Eibachs up front and a reset out back.
    Is it better than stock, well lets not forget that i have the N3 (95) chassis and a roll cage but i had the suspension done after the cage and it was an imediate change, not also on feel but the car was more predictable and very neutral-leaning towards over steer, just slightly.
    Also the previuos owner had the struts revalved to Pug-sport units and a Pug-sport rear tortion bar, but now the passive rear steer feels less usefull, but hence i like the fact that i can still easily power out of the apex and not swap ends over.
    BUT, knowing wat i know now, id have a N5 XSi and just add better pads/discs, AZENIS semis and sparco race bucket. Nothig else, even to the engine.
    ... ptui!

  24. #24
    1000+ Posts CHRI'S16's Avatar
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    <span>Guys as most of you know ive already done the <span class=ResizableText0>suspension</span>
    mods, on my car, and im going against the flow here but my S16 feeds back so much more on the Eibachs up front and a reset out back. Is it better than stock, well lets not forget that i have the N3 (95) chassis and a roll cage but i had the <span class=ResizableText0>suspension</span> done after the cage and it was an imediate change, not also on feel but the car was more <span class=ResizableText0>predictable</span> and very neutral-leaning towards over steer, just slightly. Also the previuos owner had the struts revalved to Pug-sport units and a Pug-sport rear tortion bar, but now the passive
    rear steer feels less usefull, but hence i like the fact that i can still easily power out of the apex and not swap ends over. BUT, knowing wat i know now, id have a N5 XSi and just add better <span class=ResizableText0>pads/discs,</span> AZENIS semis and sparco race bucket. Nothing else, even to the engine. happy hunting Xq ps, i wouldn't lower a 306 more then 35mm at front and 55mm (1 notch) out back, for GO. For SHOW only 60mm at front and just of the bump stops out <span class=ResizableText0>back!!!lol.</span></span>

    sorry im not sure wat happened above there!

    <small>[ 13 February 2003, 02:56 PM: Message edited by: xqisid ]</small>
    ... ptui!

  25. #25
    Fellow Frogger! PULS8R's Avatar
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    I'm definately not going for show, the roads/driveways I drive on wouldn't allow a -60mm drop anyway! eek! I want to improve my handling because atm it doesn't feel right. Improving looks at the same time doesn't hurt either.

    Is this the ad from the trading post:

    Peugeot 306 parts, engine brace, Remus exhaust, Spax springs, all $300 or near offer, will separate HABERFIELD 0411-135530

    might give them a call and ask a few questions
    1995 306 XR

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