BE1 Gearbox rebuild
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! blahblah's Avatar
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    Default BE1 Gearbox rebuild

    Hello

    The BE1 gearbox in my BX 16v has tired synchros on 3rd and 4th - I think it may be suffering from a cracked clutch release fork (clutch needs to be at the floor for smoothish shifts) and this has lead to their demise. Anyway, has anyone got an idea of the cost of parts to rebuild one of these?

    Looking at the cost of bearings and perhaps a full set of synchros....

    Alternatively, has anyone got a good, spare BE1 or parts that they are interested in selling???

    Not all that keen on alternative boxes as I love the well spaced ratios and short gearing of this box:-)

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    I am of course, in the most remote capital city in the world...Perth


    Cheers,

    Chris

  2. #2
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Chris,

    How sure are you that it needs a rebuild?
    The symptoms you describe are exactly those shown by boxes using full synthetic gearoil or 75/95 mineral. In 95% of cases, a change to a straight 80 will cure it. The cause is apparently something to do with the metals used in the synchro rings being incompatible with either of the aforesaid oils and is cured by replacing it. If you do a search on aussiefrogs, you'll find several articles on it. Try here for starters: http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/sea...earchid=173024
    Also, where did the car ever inherit a BE1 box? To my knowledge, the BE1 was only ever fitted to the series one and to my knowledge, yours is a series 2 which if it has been changed across, again makes me even more suspicious as it's rare for them to do one box in, but if it's done two there has to be a problem causing all this as I'd imagine that car of yours wouldn't have done all that many klms.
    If you have to change to a BE3, then I understand you will need to get hold of the linkages also.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! blahblah's Avatar
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    Default Does anyone have a spare BE3 gearbox that they want to part with?

    Alan

    We're probably talking about a BE3 then - I had a quick look in the old BX Haynes manual for the gearbox type.

    I did the oil change and added the goo as recommended here but the shift deteriorated if anything. I will verify the oil I put in though.

    I would have thought that if the oil was the problem the crunching shifts would be a problem in all gears not just third and fourth.

    I've got to pull the gearbox out to look at the problem with clutch pedal needing to be at the floor to change gears - I want to fix it once hence why I was after parts prices or a spare gearbox.

    Cheers,

    Chris
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan S
    Chris,

    How sure are you that it needs a rebuild?
    The symptoms you describe are exactly those shown by boxes using full synthetic gearoil or 75/95 mineral. In 95% of cases, a change to a straight 80 will cure it. The cause is apparently something to do with the metals used in the synchro rings being incompatible with either of the aforesaid oils and is cured by replacing it. If you do a search on aussiefrogs, you'll find several articles on it. Try here for starters: http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/sea...earchid=173024
    Also, where did the car ever inherit a BE1 box? To my knowledge, the BE1 was only ever fitted to the series one and to my knowledge, yours is a series 2 which if it has been changed across, again makes me even more suspicious as it's rare for them to do one box in, but if it's done two there has to be a problem causing all this as I'd imagine that car of yours wouldn't have done all that many klms.
    If you have to change to a BE3, then I understand you will need to get hold of the linkages also.


    Alan S

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! Ren25's Avatar
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    Default

    sounds like a clutch problem, rather than a gearbox. If you fix the clutch, you'll find the gearbox problem miraculously dissappears.
    Cheers
    Mike
    Armageddon was yesterday
    Today we have a problem


    2000 406 Hdi X 3
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  5. #5
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    There is an old BX complaint that we don't hear much of these days; here's a write up from Brij Dogra's CitroenZ site:
    May be worthy of consideration also.



    Alan S



    Posted by : Brij Dogra. (July 4th 1997)

    RE: Cracked clutch operating lever.
    PROBLEM: My clutch pedal height was getting lower and lower eventhough its height was being constantly adjusted and re-adjusted. This caused very stiff gear shifting and a sore left leg.
    SOLUTION: The clutch operating lever (see picture) was cracked almost all the way through at the base of one of its supporting arms. Changing this part would have been costly, so the Service Technician had the damaged part modified by getting the cracked section welded back and added 2 steel rods to reinforce its strength. I was fortunate enough to have caught this in time, had the lever snapped off, I would have been stranded with no alternative but to call for a tow truck. The new generation of this part from Citroen is modified to include one reinforcing bar. If you fit the new one from CitroŽn or get the old one modified, its supposed to last a lifetime. So, if your BX uses the old one and you ever face this problem, you now have an option.

    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! blahblah's Avatar
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    Default

    I discounted the clutch as it was replaced 3-4 years ago and the car had done limited miles since then - I might reinvestigate though along with the release lever. by the looks of it I'll be taking off the gearbox.

    I'm still tempted to replace at least the gearbox bearings while it's out and check the synchros....

    Cheers,

    Chris

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! DejaVu's Avatar
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    Default

    well, with my BE3 on my Mi16.... i rang Auto Paris to ask what the costs would be to replace my 3rd and 4th Synchro, as they are fairly shagged. they said worst case $2500, including a new clutch.

    so at the moment, ive just added that Nulon G70 goop to my gear oil, and all is generally well. except the odd crunch. when i run into a pile of cash, ill get it fixed properly tho.
    2013 Megane RS 265 Trophy

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! Bluey's Avatar
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    Default

    The BE1 gearbox in my BX 16v has tired synchros on 3rd and 4th - I think it may be suffering from a cracked clutch release fork (clutch needs to be at the floor for smoothish shifts) and this has lead to their demise. Anyway, has anyone got an idea of the cost of parts to rebuild one of these?

    Looking at the cost of bearings and perhaps a full set of synchros....
    Rebuilding is much better than getting a replacement. The 'box will feel like new.

    Remove & Refit gearbox - $400
    Disassemble gearbox, fit bearings & reassemble - $400
    Bearings and Materials - $400

    don't know what synchros cost but they might want to charge another $100 to fit. As well as synchros & bearings, get the diff gears reshimmed and the spider gear shaft replaced if its worn.

    Search around because some transmission specialists will charge $400 for dis-&-reassembly while others will want $1200 before you've finished saying the second syllable of Citroen.

    I think the cheapest and best way top go about this is to find a transmission specialist before you get the 'box pulled then get prices from other mechanics to remove and send to the specialist, and source the parts yourself from PSA as the gearbox people will charge you extra on parts over PSA.

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! blahblah's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluey
    Rebuilding is much better than getting a replacement. The 'box will feel like new.

    Remove & Refit gearbox - $400
    Disassemble gearbox, fit bearings & reassemble - $400
    Bearings and Materials - $400

    don't know what synchros cost but they might want to charge another $100 to fit. As well as synchros & bearings, get the diff gears reshimmed and the spider gear shaft replaced if its worn.

    Search around because some transmission specialists will charge $400 for dis-&-reassembly while others will want $1200 before you've finished saying the second syllable of Citroen.

    I think the cheapest and best way top go about this is to find a transmission specialist before you get the 'box pulled then get prices from other mechanics to remove and send to the specialist, and source the parts yourself from PSA as the gearbox people will charge you extra on parts over PSA.

    Thanks for that Bluey - it gives me an idea of the cost of the bits. I'm looking at rebuilding it myself so I'll save a bit on parts.

    Cheers,

    Chris

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