405 Mi16 Series 1 - Acc belt tensioner(s)?
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! pips's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Behind you
    Posts
    487

    Default 405 Mi16 Series 1 - Acc belt tensioner(s)?

    Anyone happen to have a diagram or a high res, high detail photo of an engine out of an Mi16 (Series 1)?

    I have to change the accessories belt tensioner. But when I went to Dapco to pick one up, the guy brought three out, and said, this is it.

    One was just a plastic pulley with a bearing. I think this is what I needed. but the other two were large, metal, spring loaded arms, they were huge. And he said that I'll need all of them.

    I figured that the serpent belt went around all the bits, alternator, aircon, etc. and then there is the pulley, tensioned and held in place.

    So, if someone could show me a diagram or a photo of that side of the engine. Would be great.

    Cheers
    pips

    Advertisement
    Ever wonder why Mad Scientist talk to themselves? They know others just wouldn't understand.

    The software said "Windows 98 or better". So I installed Linux.

    1990 405 Mi16

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Roland's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    727

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pips
    Anyone happen to have a diagram or a high res, high detail photo of an engine out of an Mi16 (Series 1)?

    I have to change the accessories belt tensioner. But when I went to Dapco to pick one up, the guy brought three out, and said, this is it.

    One was just a plastic pulley with a bearing. I think this is what I needed. but the other two were large, metal, spring loaded arms, they were huge. And he said that I'll need all of them.

    I figured that the serpent belt went around all the bits, alternator, aircon, etc. and then there is the pulley, tensioned and held in place.

    So, if someone could show me a diagram or a photo of that side of the engine. Would be great.

    Cheers
    pips
    Hi pips,
    Sorry I can't help with a photo but if your engine is the same as mine (mine is a late '92 Series I) then you don't need three "tensioners".
    Mine has the plastic (black) pully mounted on a bearing. The hole through the centre is off centre thus providing a tensioning system.

    The quote I had from Peugeot for this was some ridiculous amount like $240.
    Well seeing as you can't take the black pulley bit off the bearing and just replace the bearing - that's exactly what I did. Replaced the bearing ($16) pressed it back together and haven't had any problems. (You need a metal lathe to do what I did and as I have a metal lathe I did what I had to do with the lathe!)

    The purpose of the "tensioner" is to provide a greater curvature of contact of the belt with the crankshaft pulley. If you don't have this extra contact then the belt will slip when the air con is switched on. (especially if the belt is a little loose)

    My belt goes around the crankshaft pulley "under" the tensioner pulley, over the alternator pulley and down around and under the air con pulley and then back to the crankshaft.

    When I was fitting the belt I left the
    "tensioner" a little loose and adjusted the belt with the adjustment mechanism on the alternator. In the process the tensioner centred itself and I simply tightened the nut to hold it in place.
    I did find that the belt bedded in and became quite loose after a couple of days running so I tightened it again with the alternator adjuster. The belt has remained tight ever since (months)

    Hope this helps
    regards
    Roland

  3. #3
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923

    Default

    Good advice from Roland on adjusting; try any other way and it'll sound like a tribe of Banshees screaming when you first start up.
    Just checked on the Mi16 we have nere and it's identical to a BX16V, namely just one plastic pulley.
    I think the spring loaded ones are more likely to be on later models as the one on the Xantia is spring loaded.
    If in doubt, ask Wongy at Auto France at Artamon. He should tell you off the top of his head and supply it.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! pips's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Behind you
    Posts
    487

    Default

    Roland:

    Cool. I don't have a metal lathe, but I have access to one.

    I assume you are referring to using the lathe on the outside race of the bearing? Or, (a stupid question) increase the inside diameter of the plastic tensioner to fit the bearing into?

    What type of bearing did you use? Needle roller bearing? or plain ball bearing?

    Cheers
    pips
    Ever wonder why Mad Scientist talk to themselves? They know others just wouldn't understand.

    The software said "Windows 98 or better". So I installed Linux.

    1990 405 Mi16

  5. #5
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923

    Default

    If it's of any interest. We recently had to do a custom engine job on a Commode and had no jockey wheel, so just used an old cambelt tensioner and adjusted the belt length accordingly.
    They're perfect because they are held on with a bolt in the centre, are set on an eccentric for adjustment and I'd imagine any friendly wrecker would have a thousand sitting around for next to nowt so you could take the old pulley along to use as a sample for size.
    Cheap, easy and worked a treat.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! Roland's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    727

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pips
    Roland:

    Cool. I don't have a metal lathe, but I have access to one.

    I assume you are referring to using the lathe to increase the inside diameter of the plastic tensioner to fit the bearing into?
    YES - that's it but don't turn all the plastic off - you have to have some to grip the new bearing!
    Quote Originally Posted by pips

    What type of bearing did you use? Needle roller bearing? or plain ball bearing?

    Cheers
    pips
    Hi Pips,
    I used a fully sealed ball bearing and I told the guy that it had to do at least 10,000 rpm because its smaller than the Crankshaft pulley and that goes to 7,000.


    It's a difficult story to tell without pictures or diagrams and since the upgrade of the aussie frogs sofware last weekend I haven't been able to upload any pictures.

    Essentially I popped the old tensioner into the lathe gripping the outside of the plastic. I turned the lip off the inside of the plastic where it grips the bearing. But not all completely off - I left a small tapered lip in place of the square original. I then pressed the bearing and its centre out of the black plastic. And then pressed the bearing of its centre.
    The bearing is interesting in that its a "special size" and you can't get another the same size.
    I managed to get one which was the same outside diameter and width but the inside was smaller by about a millimetre. So i then turned the centre down to make it an interference fit in the new bearing.

    I then pressed the plastic bit onto the new bearing. Complemplated skimming the outside of the black plastic but when i put it in the lathe it was spot on allready. I then pressed the turned down centre into the new bearing and put it on the car.
    Now it's done about 7,000 Ks and is working well.

    Just in case it fails I carry a new belt (shorter than standard belt) which is the correct length to go around the crankshaft pulley, the alternator pulley and the air con pulley but not the tensioner pulley. This would be good enough to get me home providing I don't use the air con.

    Hope you are able to understand all this!

    regards
    Roland

    PS: total cost - an hour or two having fun and $16 for the bearing.
    Last edited by Roland; 10th November 2005 at 05:07 PM.

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! pips's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Behind you
    Posts
    487

    Default

    Sounds cool. I understand your instructions.

    I assume the bearing would be available at CBC Bearings or something alike.

    Also, do you remember the bearing size you had to buy?

    Cheers
    pips
    Ever wonder why Mad Scientist talk to themselves? They know others just wouldn't understand.

    The software said "Windows 98 or better". So I installed Linux.

    1990 405 Mi16

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! Roland's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    727

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pips
    Sounds cool. I understand your instructions.

    I assume the bearing would be available at CBC Bearings or something alike.

    Also, do you remember the bearing size you had to buy?

    Cheers
    pips

    Hi Pips,
    glad to hear you understood me.

    Any good bearing supplier should be able to help you.

    I don't remember the size right now. I may have the old bearing and the box the new one came in but I will have to do a bit of a search for it.
    This might take a day or two because all my time is taken up through to late Sunday as I am spectatoring on the WRC in Perth this weekend.
    (In fact I have just got home from the special stages at Glouster Park. And although Solberg leads after about 2.8 Ks, Gronholm was the fastest on his second run around the stage.
    This rally is going to be full on between Gronholm and Solberg - whoever finishes in front will get second for the championship.)

    regards
    Roland

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! KRISKARRERA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    England!
    Posts
    134

    Default

    Yey I know something no-one else has mentioned yet.

    There is 2 different air conditioning belt tensioners for the 1.9 mi16. The earlier version has the pulley mounted on the sump. Bad idea, doesn't make for a good seal on sump when ur trying to get rid of oil leak.
    The later design has pulley mounted on that bolt that holds the alternator tensioner bracket thingy to the block.
    405 MI16
    170bhp
    Le lion va de la force la force!

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •