Rebuild ZF4HP22
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Thread: Rebuild ZF4HP22

  1. #1
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    Default Rebuild ZF4HP22

    Hi guys I am chasing any documentation, manuals or parts lists for the ZF4HP22 gbox.

    I know these went in the v6 505s (there is the french content !) and various BMWs - the one I will need to overhaul in the next 12 months will be out of my range rover.

    If anyone has pulled these down and put them back together and has any advice that would be great. I am pulling out the transfer case early next year and replacing it with a rebuilt one and I figure I may as well overhaul the gbox then rather than in 50,000K when it is pretty much due for a rebuild.

    250,000K - 300,000K seems to be life span.

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    Thanks guys I know it is not totally pug related but I reckon you blokes here are pretty clever and might have some answers.

    Thanks
    Tom

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    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Last edited by Alan S; 2nd November 2005 at 09:13 PM.
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

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    there was one there for a zf4hp20 but not a 22 - have to try and work out the difference thanks for the link there was some good gear on there



    Tom

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    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    According to a guy overseas, he reckons he got into the parent file of that and dug out all kinds of things for all sorts of models.
    I'm not 'puter literate enough to do that but if you are you might or someone with the know how may be able to dig it out for you.

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! 604 tragic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcns
    Hi guys I am chasing any documentation, manuals or parts lists for the ZF4HP22 gbox.

    I know these went in the v6 505s (there is the french content !) and various BMWs - the one I will need to overhaul in the next 12 months will be out of my range rover.

    If anyone has pulled these down and put them back together and has any advice that would be great. I am pulling out the transfer case early next year and replacing it with a rebuilt one and I figure I may as well overhaul the gbox then rather than in 50,000K when it is pretty much due for a rebuild.

    250,000K - 300,000K seems to be life span.

    Thanks guys I know it is not totally pug related but I reckon you blokes here are pretty clever and might have some answers.

    Thanks
    Tom
    Hi Tom
    keep searching the net on 4HP22, as there is a heap of stuff that I have see over the years (but not bookmarked) including the fix on what stuffs up these boxes.

    Seems they generate too much pressure in neutral ( so never rev an engine with a 4HP22!) This pressure flows back through the trans and stretches everything. One smart bunny installed a new pressure release spring & ball in his valve body & has solved this problem. He is obviously an auto trans guru to do this brain surgery.

    In the US they wreck the transmissions when they do an annual smog test by reving to 3000 rpm & holding it. POP!!!

    Hunt around the BMW sites.
    So many projects - so little time.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 604 tragic
    Hi Tom
    keep searching the net on 4HP22, as there is a heap of stuff that I have see over the years (but not bookmarked) including the fix on what stuffs up these boxes.

    Seems they generate too much pressure in neutral ( so never rev an engine with a 4HP22!) This pressure flows back through the trans and stretches everything. One smart bunny installed a new pressure release spring & ball in his valve body & has solved this problem. He is obviously an auto trans guru to do this brain surgery.

    In the US they wreck the transmissions when they do an annual smog test by reving to 3000 rpm & holding it. POP!!!

    Hunt around the BMW sites.
    In one search I ddi a while back I even un-earthed a place in the USA that did high stall converters for 4HP22 boxes in BMW's. Good in a V6 505 I'd bet
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    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Another point worthy of note is to be 100% certain the correct fluids are being used.
    Without going back to the long winded threads on autos and fluids that I had a while back, it's absolutely amazing how many people, professionals included, continue to use incompatable ATF in transmissions and equally amazing how many supposedly in the know can't be convinced of the problem even while they're standing knee deep in blown up transmissions.
    Cits regularly blow autos at 120 K klms as apparently do certain model Beemers with the same box in them, yet Saabs don't and it was reported that Saab mechanics openly state the difference as being the fluid used. When the characteristics of the fluids are compared, it's not hard to understand why and even though I'm no auto fan or expert, I can pick a box with incorrect fluid within 100 metres of driving it. I was reminded of this by Edge's comment about boxes on Beemers blowing when being tested at a certain rev range. Wrong fluid that has friction enhancers which work at optimum levels at certain temps in some transmissions I could see causing problems and every ZF20 BX transmission I have seen with incorrect graded fluid in has dumped nice black fluid out within a few thousand klms due to internal friction damage.
    Before you start down the rebuild road, I'd suggest taking a look at the type of ATF that's in it and checking to see what exactly did the manufacturer recommend and trying a change over to that.
    For the record, Dex2 and Dex3 are two completely different fluids and not interchangeable as many would have you believe.
    My guess is, (without tryng to sound like I have a constant phobia about this) is that if your car is of the same vintage as the 505 that it should have either Dex2 or possibly even TQF as the recommended fluid. If Dex3 has been run in it, (based on the myth that Dex3 is the updated version of Dex2; it isn't) there will be a tendency to hang on in gear, change prematurely with a thump and generally feel as though the engine is constantly under load.
    A change to the correct fluid will show a marked improvement which if changed on another 2 or 3 occasions in the near future will correct itself to the point where you'll feel the rebuild is unnecessary.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan S
    Another point worthy of note is to be 100% certain the correct fluids are being used.
    Without going back to the long winded threads on autos and fluids that I had a while back, it's absolutely amazing how many people, professionals included, continue to use incompatable ATF in transmissions and equally amazing how many supposedly in the know can't be convinced of the problem even while they're standing knee deep in blown up transmissions.
    Cits regularly blow autos at 120 K klms as apparently do certain model Beemers with the same box in them, yet Saabs don't and it was reported that Saab mechanics openly state the difference as being the fluid used. When the characteristics of the fluids are compared, it's not hard to understand why and even though I'm no auto fan or expert, I can pick a box with incorrect fluid within 100 metres of driving it. I was reminded of this by Edge's comment about boxes on Beemers blowing when being tested at a certain rev range. Wrong fluid that has friction enhancers which work at optimum levels at certain temps in some transmissions I could see causing problems and every ZF20 BX transmission I have seen with incorrect graded fluid in has dumped nice black fluid out within a few thousand klms due to internal friction damage.
    Before you start down the rebuild road, I'd suggest taking a look at the type of ATF that's in it and checking to see what exactly did the manufacturer recommend and trying a change over to that.
    For the record, Dex2 and Dex3 are two completely different fluids and not interchangeable as many would have you believe.
    My guess is, (without tryng to sound like I have a constant phobia about this) is that if your car is of the same vintage as the 505 that it should have either Dex2 or possibly even TQF as the recommended fluid. If Dex3 has been run in it, (based on the myth that Dex3 is the updated version of Dex2; it isn't) there will be a tendency to hang on in gear, change prematurely with a thump and generally feel as though the engine is constantly under load.
    A change to the correct fluid will show a marked improvement which if changed on another 2 or 3 occasions in the near future will correct itself to the point where you'll feel the rebuild is unnecessary.


    Alan S

    I will look up the specifications now and check, great info thanks Alan ...

    Edit.. a quick look at the PDF of my rangie says "ATF Dexron IID" so I guess will just hunt around now and find out who makes a version of this now. Oh and by the way, my auto does all the things you said above, like you were saying it while driving my car !! I will report back after a change of fluid - it is due anyway.

    Thanks again


    Tom
    Last edited by tcns; 3rd November 2005 at 04:25 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 604 tragic
    Hi Tom
    keep searching the net on 4HP22, as there is a heap of stuff that I have see over the years (but not bookmarked) including the fix on what stuffs up these boxes.


    Thanks 604 I found heaps more with that search I was searching zf4hp22 with just the 4hp22 there are stacks of hits including some well documented overhauls

    Cheers Tom

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