bazz finally comes to his senses/engine rebuild
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! bazgti's Avatar
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    Default bazz finally comes to his senses/engine rebuild

    ive been watching far too much car shows on foxtell lately
    -pimp my ride,two guys garage,custom car restoring,automaniac. and finally decided not to paint the car but do the engine rebuild.
    now id like to get my 8v engine back to uk spec.
    is this possible without too much drama using the ecu in the car.
    what compression ratio would i need.
    what mod need to be done to existing stuff.
    also has anyone used the aftermarket piston/liners that caravelle or eai get in.
    they are half the price of the peugeot ones and are supposed to be made in the same factory.
    also id like to change valves,seats springs,the works.
    any prices would be good on any of this stuff.
    id like the mi 16 piston.liners.
    so any relevant info from people who have actually done it before would be good.
    please no tier-ing please Talking Imaginary Engine Rebuilds.
    i would like first hand info.
    ive been told some porky;s by people who think they know what they are talking about.
    also a list of what needs changing in respect of a complete rebuild.
    thank y'all-BAZZ

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  2. #2
    al
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    Default

    forum.205gtidrivers.com - it is all covered there. Just do a search.
    405 Mi16 - Sold - Now back
    205 Mi16
    505 GTi

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! bazgti's Avatar
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    Default

    ive given up trying to register on that forum.
    everytime i do it says that i cant register at the moment and try later to to site construction.
    -BAZZ

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! casnell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bazgti
    ive given up trying to register on that forum.
    everytime i do it says that i cant register at the moment and try later to to site construction.
    -BAZZ
    1.6 head from peterT and a 3 angle grind with a 130hp cam...


    hang-on that's what Ive got!


    lol


    chris


    all jokes aside, you've driven mine, whtchoo reckon?


    Chris
    205gti

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    this is what I'd do:
    - Wiseco Mi16 pistons
    - Mi16 liners
    - k-line valve guides
    - face std. valves
    - 3 angle seats, blended into throats
    - head faced to give 10:1 CR (not much with the Mi16 pistons)
    - 130hp cam (or equivalent)
    - std. valve springs
    - Haltech E6X ECU

    keeping the std. ECU & ignition is the biggest problem if you want more than 9.5:1. The engine needs 31-32 deg. total advance to make max. power, but will ping around 2500 at light loads. So you have to compromise and use 30-31 deg. You either have to fiddle with the dizzy or fit mapped ignition.

    You won't find a better single valve spring in that diameter, so the next step is doubles. Double springs are actually quite cheap to buy, but expensive to setup. The std. springs are fine up to 0.450" lift. There's no point opening the valve more than that as the flow dies off dramatically anyway.

    The std. valves are more than adequate. The largest increase in flow comes from the seat work, not the valve diameter.

    It ultimately all depends on how much engine you want and how big your wallet is. What I've suggested is relativley cheap. If you want more power than that, then I'd suggest a 16V engine. Unless of course you're competing in a motorsport that requires an 8V head. eg Targa Tasmania.

    The good thing about this build up is that you have kept your options open. You can always transfer the Mi16 pistons/liners into a 16V block/head later.
    Last edited by PeterT; 20th October 2005 at 11:12 PM.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterT
    this is what I'd do:
    - Wiseco Mi16 pistons
    - Mi16 liners
    - k-line valve guides
    - face std. valves
    - 3 angle seats, blended into throats
    - head faced to give 10:1 CR (not much with the Mi16 pistons)
    - 130hp cam (or equivalent)
    - std. valve springs
    - Haltech E6X ECU

    keeping the std. ECU & ignition is the biggest problem if you want more than 9.5:1. The engine needs 31-32 deg. total advance to make max. power, but will ping around 2500 at light loads. So you have to compromise and use 30-31 deg. You either have to fiddle with the dizzy or fit mapped ignition.

    You won't find a better single valve spring in that diameter, so the next step is doubles. Double springs are actually quite cheap to buy, but expensive to setup. The std. springs are fine up to 0.450" lift. There's no point opening the valve more than that as the flow dies off dramatically anyway.

    The std. valves are more than adequate. The largest increase in flow comes from the seat work, not the valve diameter.

    It ultimately all depends on how much engine you want and how big your wallet is. What I've suggested is relativley cheap. If you want more power than that, then I'd suggest a 16V engine. Unless of course you're competing in a motorsport that requires an 8V head. eg Targa Tasmania.

    The good thing about this build up is that you have kept your options open. You can always transfer the Mi16 pistons/liners into a 16V block/head later.

    Peter,
    what is the advantage of Mi16 liners?
    Graham

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GRAHAM WALLIS
    Peter,
    what is the advantage of Mi16 liners?
    Graham
    They're ribbed for greater rigidity.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! vanderaj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterT
    They're ribbed for greater rigidity.
    Rather than for her pleasure?

    Andrew
    2003 C3 Exclusive Panoramique auto

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! pips's Avatar
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    HAHHA.

    Do you think of Wayne's World everytime you hear the word "ribbed" as well?

    pips
    Ever wonder why Mad Scientist talk to themselves? They know others just wouldn't understand.

    The software said "Windows 98 or better". So I installed Linux.

    1990 405 Mi16

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! casnell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterT
    this is what I'd do:
    -- Haltech E6X ECU

    keeping the std. ECU & ignition is the biggest problem if you want more than 9.5:1. The engine needs 31-32 deg. total advance to make max. power, but will ping around 2500 at light loads. So you have to compromise and use 30-31 deg. You either have to fiddle with the dizzy or fit mapped ignition.

    .
    Where do you get the haltech Peter?
    205gti

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by casnell
    Where do you get the haltech Peter?
    check out the dealer list on www.haltech.com.au

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

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