Getting engine ready to remove... (driveshafts) - Page 2
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  1. #26
    al
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    Thanks to an extremely competent fellow afer, the engine is now out, and the new one is hovering ready to be put in.

    I was so suprised that we got through a day without some catastrophic discovery... I guess that makes it one in a row...

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  2. #27
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Did you end up cutting that rounded nut off?
    Have a poke around under there before you start to reassemble. Look at things like steering rack gaitors and anything that's a bugger to get to when the donk's back in place.
    Also give it a good healthy degrease so you're not sliding around in pile of shit and grease when you're working on it.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  3. #28
    al
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan S
    Did you end up cutting that rounded nut off?
    Have a poke around under there before you start to reassemble. Look at things like steering rack gaitors and anything that's a bugger to get to when the donk's back in place.
    Also give it a good healthy degrease so you're not sliding around in pile of shit and grease when you're working on it.


    Alan S
    I cut a fair bit of the nut off, and the rest was taken care of by jarrod and his chisel...

    As for playing with piles of shit, i think i am pretty safe. The engine is remarkably clean, but the gearbox could use a bit of a clean... The list of parts i need to replace is also reaching a decent length, but it will be worth it to have some degree of peace of mind...
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  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by al
    Thanks to an extremely competent fellow afer, the engine is now out, and the new one is hovering ready to be put in.

    I was so suprised that we got through a day without some catastrophic discovery... I guess that makes it one in a row...
    i think we used up the quota getting all the other stuff off.-BAZZ

  5. #30
    al
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    Ok guys... No major problems yet today, (apart from me snapping the bolt in the top mount - how i don't know) but i'm having trouble getting the driveshafts in fully. The drivers side is ok, (i think) but it seems that there the passengers needs to go about 1mm further in. I would imagine that leaving it like this would result in the gearbox oil disappearing very quickly...

    I've been wiggling and pushing it for ages, but it doesn't want to cooperate.

    Is there a trick to getting it in completely? I'm guessing brute force isn't really appropriate here...
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  6. #31
    al
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    I was just thinking about this... Is it possible that the passengers driveshaft is supposed to have a small gap between it and the box? If it was flush against it wouldn't it rub things when it spins?
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  7. #32
    al
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    Quote Originally Posted by al
    I was just thinking about this... Is it possible that the passengers driveshaft is supposed to have a small gap between it and the box? If it was flush against it wouldn't it rub things when it spins?
    I'm going to continue talking to myself in the hope that this will be useful for somebody in the future...

    It turns out that the driveshaft isn't supposed to sit flush, so my ponderings were actually correct. (i know - i'm scared too...)

    Now i have wacked the wishbone back into position, but the balljoint is obscuring the hole the bolt goes through. I guess this means that i have either not hit the wishbone in far enough, or i have gone too far. Either way i will work it out tomorrow when i can make more noise...

    Anyway, the car is taking shape now. I got the gear linkages reattached tonight, and heaps of other little things are sorted. Now i just need to replace some fuel hoses, tension the clutch and accelerator cables, sort the air intake and put the wheels on... (well, at least it is that simple in my slightly alchohol hazed mind...)
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  8. #33
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    Al great info & great responses. im taking notes for future reference.
    Puggy.

  9. #34
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    I think the problem is that everybody's a bit like me, trying to get the head around this 1mm you're talking about.
    Any chance of a pic so we can see what you mean?


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

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