needed-anglr measuring guage
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! bazgti's Avatar
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    Default needed-anglr measuring guage

    does someone have an angle measuring guage that is used on the final headbolt tightening sequence that we can borrow .
    or should i have a go at making one like in the haines.?
    ta-BAZZ

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    1000+ Posts CHRI'S16's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bazgti
    does someone have an angle measuring guage that is used on the final headbolt tightening sequence that we can borrow .
    or should i have a go at making one like in the haines.?
    ta-BAZZ
    Or rent em it for about $25 from Kennards Hire. - Chris
    ... ptui!

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! bazgti's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHRI'S16
    Or rent em it for about $25 from Kennards Hire. - Chris

    good idea chris,ta mate.....now why didnt i think of that.-BAZZ

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts CHRI'S16's Avatar
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    Any time I don't have the right tool, i just wait a little and go get it from Kennads, my local store knows me so well know If I borrow a tool saturday morning and return it that day they just charge a few bucks cash!... - Chris
    ... ptui!

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    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Why do you need one? The torx head has 6 slots. So one slot = 60 deg., 5 slots = 300 deg., etc. After you've reached the 2nd stage, put the socket in 300 deg. further and note where the bar comes to - maybe an axis of the block, or something attached to the engine. Put the socket back in the right place and turn to that point.

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  6. #6
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Default Angle gauge.

    Quote Originally Posted by bazgti
    does someone have an angle measuring guage that is used on the final headbolt tightening sequence that we can borrow .
    or should i have a go at making one like in the haines.?
    ta-BAZZ
    Bazz,
    I don't mean to rain on your parade but. Did you buy up a replacement set of head studs? Because your original bolts have been stretched at the time of factory assembly. Not to be used more than once. Sorry

    Angle gauge? If you can't get the real thing, follow the Haynes suggestion?
    Or utilize a protractor from your old school kit.
    For the final 300 degree pull you will need a quality brand breaker bar and a short length of pipe for "torque multiplication".
    If the engine is out of the car you will need two or three of your biggest mates to hold it while you perform the final pull!! I'm not kidding.

    DON'T use a torque wrench as a breaker bar.

  7. #7
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    i use a protractor, wire, hose clamp and some cardboard for mine

    works a treat

    i put my heads on with the engine in the car to make it easier
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  8. #8
    al
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    1000+ Posts al's Avatar
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    Cheers Wilde, some good advice there... The head that is getting done is actually in my car, and yes, i have bought replacement headbolts. I still need to get a breaker bar, but this can be the next thing on the list...
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  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! bazgti's Avatar
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    i borrowed one from my mechanic to make life easy.-BAZZ

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts Gamma's Avatar
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    Default At Home calibrated instruments

    From the great, "At Home calibrated instruments", series, comes the "home head bolt angle gauge".
    (Remember the 'Home tyre pressure gauge calibrator").

    Pick an arbitrary fixed point in an area about 200 feet wide in all directions and smack in a peg with a stout nail in the top.
    Get a rope 100 feet long and tie a neat loop in each end, (the radius rope).
    Slip one loop over the nail on the peg and put a stick through the other loop.
    Pull the rope tight and while maintaining the exact same pressure on the rope, scribe out a full circle, (you can either use and inelastic rope or a set of BIG fish scales to maintain the same pressure.

    This is where it gets tricky.
    Using the 'radius rope with the loops, again pick and arbitrary point on the circumference and smack in a new nailed peg.
    Again put a loop over the nail and stretch out the rope to the same tension used for the circumference, marking the exact point where the stick in the loop on the other end, cuts across the circumference on either side of the circle. Smack in pegs at these points. Repeat this process until you have six evenly spaces pegs around the circumference of you 200 ft diameter circle.


    Now shorten your rope to about 60 ft putting a new loop on the fresh end.
    Starting with one peg on the circumference put the loop on the nail, (as before) and scribe another circle, (now repeat for each of the six pegs on the circumference). You should now have one big circle and six smaller circles around the edge.

    Where the smaller circles intersect, (two adjoining circles), draw a straight line between the two points and extend it on to the centre peg of the big circle, (this being done six times), remembering to smack in a peg at the point where the line crosses the BIG circle.
    You have now have divided the circle into six slices, each subtending an angle of sixty degrees.

    To divide the circle into smaller segments, shorten your rope further, (say 30ft) and do smaller circles around the now, 12 pegs. Again marking out where the smaller circles intersect noting the point where the "radius" to the centre of the big circle crosses the circumference of the BIG circle.
    After the iteration you now have marked out subtended angles of 30 degrees.

    Using the same method the BIG circle can be divided further and further until the desired increment of angle is obtained.


    Now back to the car.
    Place the car over the central point of the big circle making sure that the bolt to be tensioned is as close to being over the central peg as possible, (the greater your accuracy at this stage the better the result).

    Use a 3ft breaker bar with an additional 3ft water pipe extension taped on to it, place it on the bolt to be tensioned. Now take up the slack.
    Have one friend standing on the circumference of the BIG circle so that they are looking directly down the centre of the water pipe, (One of those little laser pointers inside the pipe helps to line up the observer).
    Your other friend, (if you have any left by this stage), should stand on the circumference of the BIG circle exactly the number of degrees required, to the left of friend 1 and look out for the pointers beam to come into line. When this occurs you know you have tightened the bolt to the required position.

    Move the car for each bolt until the job is done.

    Last edited by Gamma; 10th September 2005 at 07:52 AM. Reason: speelink
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  11. #11
    sans witticism SLC206's Avatar
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    You must have a decent-sized shed then...
    Regards,

    Simon

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