Hydraulic e-brake for 504
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Hydraulic e-brake for 504

    Can someone recommend a specific hydraulic emergency brake for a 504 XN1?

    Thank you

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    Thanos

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! PCOATES505's Avatar
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    Why don't you make your own? I made a bracket for our 504 rally car, used a 505 handbrake lever and a clutch master cylinder from a series 2 landrover( the type with the remote fluid reservoir). We also used 505 steering column, sti steering wheel and 505 headlight and wiper switches.
    regards Pete

    I am gunna get another 403 on the road........one day

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by PCOATES505
    Why don't you make your own? I made a bracket for our 504 rally car, used a 505 handbrake lever and a clutch master cylinder from a series 2 landrover( the type with the remote fluid reservoir). We also used 505 steering column, sti steering wheel and 505 headlight and wiper switches.
    regards Pete
    This is a good iidea, Pete, thanks. Especially since I have an early STI donor car. I take it you also used the 505 wiper motor.

    Thanos

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! PCOATES505's Avatar
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    No I am sure we stayed with the 504 wiper motor, Lyn will correct me if i am wrong, used the 505 switch and control relay, which gives intermittent wipe as well, Lyncliff sorted out the wiring, quite a job, took a while but he did it well.
    Pete

    I am gunna get another 403 on the road........one day

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by PCOATES505
    No I am sure we stayed with the 504 wiper motor, Lyn will correct me if i am wrong, used the 505 switch and control relay, which gives intermittent wipe as well, Lyncliff sorted out the wiring, quite a job, took a while but he did it well.
    Pete
    Thanks, Pete. And while I still have your attention and you have already built a 504 rally, maybe you can give me a few more pointers. As I said, we have an early STI donor car which will donate struts, camber/caster bars, power steering rack without the pump (and as you suggested column and steering wheel, clutch cylinder and e-brake), calipers, trailing arms and drive shafts and 15X6 steel wheels. If the rear turns out too wide to clear the fenders (I THINK i measured carefully and it just makes it) I will either blow out the sheetmetal a bit or use the 504 hubs which will make it 1.5 centimeters narrower on each side. Rear sway bar will come from a 604, front from a 505 turbo and a custom made strut tower bar will be made. (The strut bar is easy to fabricate, I had one made for my 504 coupe and it makes a big difference. Let me know if you need a photo.) Engine plans are still vague.

    If you see any problems with the plan or have additional suggestions, I would appreciate hearing them.

    Thanks again

    Thanos

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! PCOATES505's Avatar
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    Hi Thanos
    Our rally car uses complete 505 front end with Sti struts, power steering, with the pump and alternator mounted on the passenger side, the power steering is great, why work harder than you have too, you have two choices for the back end, 504 trailing arms with 505 drive shafts and hubs, or 505 trailing arms and shafts with 504 hubs, both setups give wider track,
    505 trailing arms with 505 hubs = flared guards. be interested in a pic of your strut bar you can email me [email protected],net.au.
    Motor at present is stock 504 bottom with well worked Ti head, 70/30 cam with south african 4 branch manifold and Holley 350 carby, took a long time to get it right, we don't have dyno access, motor pulls well from 2000 to 7000rpm and has very little of that hot cam hunt at idle.
    Pete

    I am gunna get another 403 on the road........one day

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by PCOATES505
    Hi Thanos
    Our rally car uses complete 505 front end with Sti struts, power steering, with the pump and alternator mounted on the passenger side, the power steering is great, why work harder than you have too, you have two choices for the back end, 504 trailing arms with 505 drive shafts and hubs, or 505 trailing arms and shafts with 504 hubs, both setups give wider track,
    505 trailing arms with 505 hubs = flared guards. be interested in a pic of your strut bar you can email me [email protected],net.au.
    Motor at present is stock 504 bottom with well worked Ti head, 70/30 cam with south african 4 branch manifold and Holley 350 carby, took a long time to get it right, we don't have dyno access, motor pulls well from 2000 to 7000rpm and has very little of that hot cam hunt at idle.
    Pete
    Thanks, Pete.
    Unfortunately, the power steering pump is gone from the donor car and I am not sure that the cross member of the 504 can accomodate it anyway. Finding another 505 pump and hoses in Greece is a tough job, so I will work on my biceps and triceps instead.

    I thought that the 505 drive shaft would not fit with the 504 trailing arms, I will have to check again. I think I will try the 505 arms and shafts with the 504 hubs and if it is not what I am looking for I will have to switch to the 505 hubs and flare the guards (tires will be 195/60/15). I think this set up gives 146 cm front track, 140 rear with 504 hubs, 143 with 505 hubs. We shall see....

    Is the Holley 350 better than 40mm Weber DCOE's? I found them for a really good price, but I can get a Holley 350 also if it is better.

    Are you familiar with the Gtech? Is not as good as a dyno but it is cheap (US$200-300 depending on model), several people can pitch in and buy it together, and it is very helpfull with engine and suspension tuning.

    I will take a digital photo of the tower strut bar and e-mail it to you.

    Thanks

    Thanos

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! PCOATES505's Avatar
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    Thanos
    I would go with the DCOE's , setup right they will perform better, the holley is ok but has fuel surge problems that have to be dealt with, would prefer a down draught 40mm weber on our manifold, but I think we would have clearance problems. We have 40mm dellorto's but I have to build a manifold and air intake, and buy some trumpets

    Are you familiar with the Gtech? Is not as good as a dyno but it is cheap (US$200-300 depending on model), several people can pitch in and buy it together, and it is very helpfull with engine and suspension tuning.

    Not familiar with this at all, any more info?
    Thanks Pete

    I am gunna get another 403 on the road........one day

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by PCOATES505
    Thanos
    I would go with the DCOE's , setup right they will perform better, the holley is ok but has fuel surge problems that have to be dealt with, would prefer a down draught 40mm weber on our manifold, but I think we would have clearance problems. We have 40mm dellorto's but I have to build a manifold and air intake, and buy some trumpets

    Are you familiar with the Gtech? Is not as good as a dyno but it is cheap (US$200-300 depending on model), several people can pitch in and buy it together, and it is very helpful with engine and suspension tuning.

    Not familiar with this at all, any more info?
    Thanks Pete
    www.gtechpro.com

    Poor man's dyno and sort of fifth wheel/g-analyzer. Used properly it will pay for itself many times over. You can baseline your car in terms of engine and suspension, then check the effectiveness of each engine and suspension mod easily and quantitatively. It is also very valuable if you have adjustable suspension because you use the gtech to set up the suspension for each track configuration.

    Thanos
    Last edited by Thanos; 5th September 2005 at 11:40 PM.

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