which way does the motor spin?
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! bazgti's Avatar
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    Default which way does the motor spin?

    looking from the cambelt end of the motor,which way do you turn the motor when you are using a spanner on the crankshaft to align for dowl placement.
    the arrows are worn off the cambelt so they are no help.
    is it clockwise or anti clockwise.
    thank you from the slowly learning and uninitiated.
    -BAZZ

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  2. #2
    al
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    It turns clockwise baz. I found this out yesterday and got it turning over with no worries... Interestingly though, the mark that was on the cam sprocket doesn't line any of the holes for the dowels up...
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    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by al
    It turns clockwise baz. I found this out yesterday and got it turning over with no worries... Interestingly though, the mark that was on the cam sprocket doesn't line any of the holes for the dowels up...
    Oh yes it does; you're looking at the wrong spot. Refer to your service manual.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

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    al
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan S
    Oh yes it does; you're looking at the wrong spot. Refer to your service manual.


    Alan S
    This is a bitch of a thing to do... I keep stopping about 1mm too early, then go to turn it and it goes too far..
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    al
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan S
    Oh yes it does; you're looking at the wrong spot. Refer to your service manual.


    Alan S
    And actually, according to Mr Haynes i don't need to look at the mark, but rather the holes...
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    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Remove the spark plugs my son!! It sounds like it keeps turning over compression.

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  7. #7
    al
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    Plugs are out. I've just been trying (as instructed) by the Haynes to get the crank cam dowel hole to around 12oclock, but i'm noticing that the cam hole is currently at about 2... Will it take a few rotations to get everything lined up, or should it be right place the first time around?
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  8. #8
    al
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    Slight realignment of topic...

    I have the dowels (10mm bolts) in the holes and everything is kool, but i'm wondering if they are a bit loose. It looks as though they would fall out if knocked the wrong way, but they are definately in their holes...

    Is this normal, or should they be tight?
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  9. #9
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    I think from memory when I did an 8 valve engine, I just used bolts. Just make sure they're pointing at right angles to the head and block and not sitting cockeyed when you are refitting the belt.
    I usually do a failsafe method of marking the old belt before removing and marking the pulleys to match.
    Then mark the new belt in corresponding positions, then when you pull one off, you refit the new one in the same position knowing all is correct.
    If they use the same kind of spring loaded tensioner, I found a 1/4" socket ratchet was an ideal too to access it in an area where you can feel but not see and acts as another failsafe in that you preset the direction before you start and can't get confused if you don't get it on the first attempt.
    With the distractions I get, I try to take "fool proof" to the next level "Idiot proof" to allow for the phone calls and other goings on that make my mind wander mid job.
    Incidentally, on the 16V engines, the pins are stepped so that they fit into the holes in the head via the sprockets which have slightly larger holes; the 8 V doesn't have something like that by any chance?


    Alan S
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  10. #10
    al
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan S
    I usually do a failsafe method of marking the old belt before removing and marking the pulleys to match.
    I'm going to have to look at it for all that to make sense, but thanks. (i haven't looked at the tensioner yet...)

    Also, what am i marking the belt for? Won't the mark be pointless after it is removed? And marking the pulleys in relation to what?

    Thanks
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  11. #11
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by al
    I'm going to have to look at it for all that to make sense, but thanks. (i haven't looked at the tensioner yet...)

    Also, what am i marking the belt for? Won't the mark be pointless after it is removed? And marking the pulleys in relation to what?

    Thanks

    Courtesy of Anders (DK) who puts it in a fairly easy step by step way.
    This refers to a diesel which of course also incorporate a diesel pump in there also so are more complicated that a standard petrol 8 valve engine. When you read and get the gist of what he says, it's really quite a common sense idea.

    Relative Indexing :
    1) Clean the edge of the old belt & the sprockets using a solvent/degreaser.
    2) Using white ink - mark up 1 tooth on each sprocket - and the 2 surrounding teeth on the belt. On the outside (flat) of the belt - make a line corresponding to each marked tooth - ensuring you can find the marked teeth.
    3) On the cam sprocket belt markings - mark up an arrow pointing towards front of car. This arrow indicates direction of belt rotation - and ensures you find this arrow as cam index. In case of 2 cams - allways use the leftmost (viewed in to the sprockets) as reference.
    4) Remove old belt - transfer all the markings to new belt. Have an assistent checking equal teeth count between markings on both belts - ensuring no offset made by error.
    5) Fit new belt according to markings.
    6) If the belt tensioner wheel is fitted with a tensioner spring - this is used for correct tensioning of the belt.
    7) Loosen any lock nuts/bolts on the tensioner wheel bracket - and let the spring tension the belt.
    Cool IMPORTANT. Refit any drivebelt wheel onto the crank axle - to keep the cambelt on the crank sprocket.
    9) Turn the engine in running direction a couple of full rev's - by handtool - ensuring the belt seats correctly on wheels & sprockets.
    10) Now turn the cam backwards a bit - to take up any slack in the belt's longest run.
    11) In case the engine has 2 cams - then turn both cam sprockets backwards - to take up any slack between cams - and slack in the belt's longest run.
    12) In case the tensioner wheel has no tensioner spring (center offset adjusting) - then tension the belt such that it's exactly possible to twist the belt 90degree on it's longest run - using normal finger forces.
    13) Tighten the tensioner wheel bracket lock nuts/bolts.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  12. #12
    al
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    That is great Alan. Thanks heaps.

    I love the bit that suggests to get an assistant to do the mundane counting of the teeth... Is this while they are having a break from making you coffee?
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    helpers?
    Last edited by casnell; 5th September 2005 at 02:35 PM.
    205gti

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! bazgti's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by al
    Slight realignment of topic...

    I have the dowels (10mm bolts) in the holes and everything is kool, but i'm wondering if they are a bit loose. It looks as though they would fall out if knocked the wrong way, but they are definately in their holes...

    Is this normal, or should they be tight?
    dosent matter mate as they are just used to align the setup.they are supposed to come out and back in again easily.you line up with the dowels and then remove the bottom one to take the crankshaft pulley off.-BAZZ

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