Worthwhile upgrades for an R10
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    76

    Default Worthwhile upgrades for an R10

    i'd like to know what are the most common and most essential mods when it comes to helping the R10 along.

    i've had a few suggestions, all with different price tags.

    R8 driveline
    half radiator in the front end to assist the rear, with electric fan in the rear
    upgraded/heavy duty clutch, clutch plate, pressure plate (has any1 done this, if so, what did u use?)
    strengthened gearbox
    grinded cam
    electronic dizzy
    electric fuel pump with regulator
    weber carby
    sports air filter setup OR CAI with piping to somewhere in the front.


    anything else that has been done?

    i've just got from HONG KONG PUGGY ::

    reconditioned head
    weber twin throat carby
    10S cam

    Advertisement


    any help and assistance would be appreciated

  2. #2
    Simon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    6,162

    Default

    To what use is the car going to be put to? Daily driver, daily driver/occasional club car, club car/occasional daily driver or full time club car? And if club car what sort of competition.

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    76

    Default

    almost daily driver until car is complete, then a weekend cruiser.

    haven't thought about club competition yet, but it's not outta the question

  4. #4
    Simon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    6,162

    Default

    With a daily driver I'd really do as little as possible. In stock form they are quite reliable. Probably after making sure the body is nice and rust free to be a good base to work from, the next step would be a set of 13" or 14" wheels for a daily driver to replace the original 15" rims now that the 135/145 tyres are becoming more difficult and expensive to obtain.

    Depending on your budget, and I'm not sure if the motor requires a rebuild from previous messages, if so it may even be easier to replace the motor with that from a 12 or Virage. If the car has a later 10S bellhousing (bolt on shield below the bellhousing that covers the flywheel) the 12 motor basically bolts straight in, the 1.3 12 has a larger clutch, annd the 1.4 a larger clutch again, so that solves the desire for a larger clutch. Also swap the 10 water pump onto the 12 motor to retain the heater setup, as well as the 10S manifold. Also check if the 12 motor swap will be legal for your rego and with your insurance company. Otherwise a rebuild of your 10 motor could be carried out using the 10S bits you already have.

    Electronic ignition is handy, but again I've never had any problems with the stock Ducellier setup on my 12 apart from one rebuild to sort out the bobweight bushes. Again for a daily driver it is quite reliable.

    A cam grind would be handy, but again being a daily driver you wouldn't want to go overboard and make it awkward to drive around town. Initially with a rebuilt 10 motor the 10S cam would probably do fine.

    The stock radiator setup if in well maintained condition is fine for probably 90% of running conditions, especially as a daily driver. And I must profess now I wouldn't be keen on cutting a nice R10 body to fit a front radiator but that is only my opinion. After seeing Alan Moore's 750 at the Brisvegas FCD, I can only admire the workmanship for all the mods done in a nice discrete way without spoiling the car.

    The stock gearbox if in good condition should be fine even with the 12 motor. They only seem to need a strong diff if used in extreme competition, or if a 16TS motor is installed.

    The stock airfilter with the stock carby is probably the best initially, being attached to the rear panel it draws in cool air from outside the engine compartment. A tube all the way to the front of the car may prove a bit restrictive, although that was the method used on the Dauphine, which obtained its intake air from the boot.

    I guess to summarize, I'm being a bit oif a wet blanket, but also trying to keep it simple and within a budget as a daily driver. I've no idea of your circumstances, young driver/first car/student etc. I'm just trying to create a base as a neat daily driver, and later on you could build up an engine whilst using it as a daily driver or to use in competition as the budget increases.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Ipswich, Queensland.
    Posts
    1,895

    Default

    Simon, I am sorry I missed talking to you at the Brisbane FCD. Too busy talking Alpines and walking around in a big white suit.

    I think the 12/ 1.4 route is a better way to go in the 10, although I did have a hot 16TS in my 8, years ago, and in reality a far better car allround than the 750. It is just so much easier to stay with the Sierra engine.
    A lot can be gained in these engines with a porting and a small cam and some compression, still on a twin barrel Weber. 85 Hp or so will push it along very well, and not tend to blow up gearboxes like I did with the 16. I broke the gearbox 13 times in 5 years.

    Like most things, mods come down to how many dollars you have to spend, and the talent, and or stubborness available.
    '56 Renault 750 (16TS Power)
    '62 Renault Dauphine Gordini
    '89 Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
    '08 Renault Megane sedan

  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    76

    Default

    Simon, thanx heaps for ur run down on the things i can do.

    so to answer the "unsure of's"

    I'm 21
    I have plenty to spend
    I work full time.

    I'd rather get it setup proper now, rather then go to the first step, then decide later to change it to a next step.

    is there any other late model reno engine that can be substituted into the 10, Alan u said u had the 16TS in the 8, can this pose well in the 10?

    i'd say to go for a reconditioned 12 engine is best, as i'd hate for the conversion to lead me to another rebuild cost down the track.
    like u said the 12 can solve alot of my upgrade thoughts, clutch etc.

    i'd get a larger diff straight away (what is used as a good, strong replacement?

    how is the 13/14" wheel conversion done, is there the hub changes or jus custom drilled rims to suit the 10? i'm planning on getting rid of the stock 15's but jus didn't know how to change to the 13's or 14's.

    ^^tell me about the tyres for the 15's ordered in, and freakin expensive

    in comparison, would the 10s cam go well in the 12? or would i jus get the 12's cam grinded?

    electric dizzy is an option but a price factor is there, and if the standard dizzy is fine, provided it's set right, i'll wait that mod out.

    radiator wise, i'd rather get a new one fitted in the rear with a better flow and a lil larger, as i got a mate who builds them, i wasn't really wanting to run a radiator from the front, jus got told it's been done.

    and to some new q's

    would a electronic fuel pump with a regulator be a handy change to have? or it would make little difference?

    would changing to the 12 engine, change the exhaust manifold setup compared to the 10? it's jus that i had the new exhaust in not long ago, and would rather keep it. so would like to now if they are similar from10 to 12.

    thanx again

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Ipswich, Queensland.
    Posts
    1,895

    Default

    Use a 12/1.4, leave the gearbox alone. The 16 is too much trouble. Use a larger than 10s cam, maybe a 102 grind from Tighe Cams. A single sidedraft carb (Weber 40 DCOE) on a manifold from French Car Care in Brisbane. Head porting. You might see 100Hp from a good 1.4. Don't worry about an electric fuel pump.

    Get a set of 15" Performance Superlites from Performance Wheels in Adelaide.(around $200 ea) You can buy them through any wheel shop. 195/50/15 tyres probably cheaper than the 135s. 13" wheels require the brake calipers to be cut down and excessive offset on the front. 14" are better but will still scrape the tie rod end if not given a wide offset on the front. Steelies 14" will still probably set you back $120ea, and are often not straight. Get some Konis.

    Now the big question before this all starts, how much money are you willing to spend? If you have to pay for all the spannerwork and such, a rebuilt engine and suspension with a few mods, plus wheels and tyres will set you back $4000+, without paint and interior.

    My little 750 with modded everything owes $7000+, with doing most things myself, and it is still nowhere near a perfect condition car, with more sorting still needed.
    Last edited by alan moore; 15th August 2005 at 08:53 PM.
    '56 Renault 750 (16TS Power)
    '62 Renault Dauphine Gordini
    '89 Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
    '08 Renault Megane sedan

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    76

    Default

    thanx alan, that was a nice run down of what i can get.

    could i jus grind the 10s cam more, then put it in the 12? or jus grind the 12? or get a new one completely?
    how would the weber single sidedraft carb be different from a dual throat D/D weber?

    website for the wheels? so i can poke around and see what i like.

    i've got a guy who i can get wheels off, but i'd like to see what u've said first.

    cost isn't too important, but i'd like to have a well rounded car, performance wise, and aesthetics wise.

    paint is debatable as my smash repairist jus got put in jail for drug dealing (go figure) so i gotta look to sum1 else.

    interior is sorted, one of my best mates works for a small trimming company who've done some big name cars, and i'll be getting that at cost price.

    some spannerwork can be done by a mate at work, who i'll pay, but obviosuly less than i would at a business.

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Ipswich, Queensland.
    Posts
    1,895

    Default

    www.performwheels.com.au

    Downdraft OK, ultimately sidedraft is better, but some more hassle and money. ($500+) Maybe use a 16TS Weber. A 10 already has cold air induction. The sidedraft will make the idle nicer with a bigger cam, although the cam I mentioned is not huge, just a decent upgrade that will work with a downdraft, but will have a lopey idle with one.

    With that cam, an upgrade in valve springs would be advised. (Around $100) Just get the 12 cam reground, ($100-$120) the 10S might be nice for someone else. Port work on the head is often $50 per cylinder. The cam followers need to be ground also. Motor should be balanced, ($180) and flywheel lightened as it is quite a lump on a 12, although th 1.4 is lighter from what I remember. There is a massive ring of weight on the outside of the clutch that can be removed on a 12. May as well get the flywheel modified to take the largest std clutch, a 1.4.
    '56 Renault 750 (16TS Power)
    '62 Renault Dauphine Gordini
    '89 Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
    '08 Renault Megane sedan

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    76

    Default

    thanx alan.

    tbh, those superlite wheels, i hate aesthetically, but thanx for gettin the site to me.

    i'll be keeping the 10s cam and whatever else is left, as once the first one is done, i'd like another one built

    Why's the sidedraught some more hassle? setting it up wise? or running wise?
    and will Caravelle sell the 16TS sidedraught?

    what ground cam is best for the sidedraught?

    where do i go to get ::

    port work
    cam ground
    motor balanced
    lightened flywheel

    done at?

    Simon, u said
    "Also swap the 10 water pump onto the 12 motor to retain the heater setup, as well as the 10S manifold."

    is that the exhaust manifold?
    i only have a stock 10, so will that manifold be fine?

    Does Reno wreck sell rebuilt 12's by any chance? or any other renault dealership?

    and with this new engine and more hp, will the brakes need upgrading?

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! Jensen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    373

    Default

    Why's the sidedraught some more hassle?

    First you will need new manifolds, either a lynx single carb manifold or two individual DCOE manifolds. Then you will need to create new linkages. Not hard but some time and effort. There is a ad on the wall of caravelle from a guy selling twin dellorto carbs and manifold set up for a 1.4 motor. Perhaps give ken a call and get the blokes number?

    "Also swap the 10 water pump onto the 12 motor to retain the heater setup, as well as the 10S manifold."

    You will need the 10S manifold to put a twin throat carb easily. The exhaust you could keep stock or go for extractors or perhaps a 12 exhaust manifold with custom engine pipe and muffler. The alternator needs to be placed in R12 position to fit i believe if using that manifold.

    I fitted a 1.4 in my R10 about a year ago and it goes quit well but is only a everyday driver. It has Wade cams mid spec grind, Shaved head with the ports cleaned up (I didn't mod the head, it came from a old 750 race car so can't say exactly whats been done), a 10S carb and set of extractors. It goes fine for the street but would be better if i had done a proper rebuild (Piston/liners etc) and had some DCOE's so it could breath better. It does feel a tad restricted with the downdraught. But with BP ULtimate at $1.34 today i'm glad i don't have em!!

    Jensen
    2002 Monaco Blue Renaultsport Clio 172
    1975 R1317 Renault 17 Gordini

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Ipswich, Queensland.
    Posts
    1,895

    Default

    I was recommending the use of a 16TS downdraft on 10S inlet manifold suitably modified, if you modded a 1,4. The sidedraft would use up quite a few dollars in dyno time for maybe a 10% gain over a twin barrel downdraft.

    Most old 12 motors need new pistons and sleeves, don't skimp on these as they are the cornerstone to performance, the cam then sets the mood of the whole engine, but there does need to be a balance of components to work together to produce good results. A big cam can make more topend power, but can become an almost undriveable pig in traffic.

    My BMW made 276HP from 2 litres naturally aspirated, and yes it is not the sort of car you would choose to drive to the shops, but it does make great power after 5000rpm to 9500, but valve spring life is around 1500Klms at 9500. What I am saying is that a road car is always a compromise, although with variable valve timing and the like, some new cars like the Clio Sport do things very well everywhere.

    The #102 Cam from Tighe Cams in Brisbane, put on your 12 camshaft would work OK with either carb. You can read all about it on their website. Look at cam grinds for 1600 Fords as they are of the same basic design of pushrod engine as the Renault.

    Don't know any machine shops in Newcastle. Maybe just get Colliers Automotive in Sydney to manage the lot.

    Neales Wheels in Sydney have made one off Renault 3 Stud alloy wheels, but I am sure they would come at a price. Saw a set on a yellow 10 years ago.
    '56 Renault 750 (16TS Power)
    '62 Renault Dauphine Gordini
    '89 Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
    '08 Renault Megane sedan

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •