Fuego timing Belt replacement question
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  1. #1
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    Default Fuego timing Belt replacement question

    I have a Fuego that was built in 83 and I am replacing the timing belt as I have no idea when it was done and I have clocked around 50000 k's since I bought it. I haven't done it on one of these and I so I ask for any advice. Obviously the radiator must come out. Are there any timing marks to line up on both pulleys and the block? Will I need any special tools for the job. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by djkirk
    I have a Fuego that was built in 83 and I am replacing the timing belt as I have no idea when it was done and I have clocked around 50000 k's since I bought it. I haven't done it on one of these and I so I ask for any advice. Obviously the radiator must come out. Are there any timing marks to line up on both pulleys and the block? Will I need any special tools for the job. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
    I have always managed to do the job by just bending the radiators back above the rocker cover after undoing and removing the top plate.that way I dont loose my coolant or air-con. You will not need anything special. from memory, 13,16mm spanner, small torx for radiator dressing, a set of feeler gauges for the tentioner,and most importantly, a liquid paper or paint pen. There are timing marks,but before you rip off the old belt get the engine to TDC position and mark the location of all wheels to be sure.If you have a rear dizzi, less chance of stuffing up too. Make sure you dont misplace any of the washers and supports off the timing belt cover, or it wont sit on squarly. You will use the feeler gauges to re-alighn the tentioner.Hope this was of some help. Do you have at least a haynes manual???I think they actually cover this job quite well in the manual.
    Jo
    Last edited by jo proffi; 5th August 2005 at 12:28 PM. Reason: lft out bit

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
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    As jo said, you can just lift the Radiator/AC condensor up ot of the way and rest it on the left headlight mounting area (after removing grill, rad top cover etc)

    Worth changing crank, cam and aux shaft seals while you're there - cheap insurance against future oil leaks. Also worth changing the tensioner pulley. And change the AC drivebelt too (not such a hot idea of Renault to put it BEHIND the timing belt...)

    Cleanliness is bloody important - degrease the whole area before reassembly, and dont even handle the belt with greasy hands.

    Put it at TDC before you pull the cover (with the timing marks on it..). The timing points are;

    Cam - mark pointing straight up in line with the rocker cover bolt

    Crank - mark in line with the cambelt cover bolt directly above it

    Aux shaft - mark in line with the little 10 mm bolt above it. As yours is an early car with the dizzy on the cam, ignore this. It only drives the oil and fuel pump and timing is irrelavent.

    Carrevelle (98909061) are hard to go past for well priced bits.
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  4. #4
    1000+ Posts The Gonz's Avatar
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    Icon9 6 Years Later....Fuego TDC

    Quote Originally Posted by Haakon View Post
    Crank - mark in line with the cambelt cover bolt directly above it
    This old comment is the crux of our problem right now. The manual seems to show this mark as visible only once you remove the pulley. Is there any alternative to this? Does the pulley itself or the flywheel have a corresponding mark?

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Gonz View Post
    This old comment is the crux of our problem right now. The manual seems to show this mark as visible only once you remove the pulley. Is there any alternative to this? Does the pulley itself or the flywheel have a corresponding mark?
    It will if you put one on the flywheel with a paint pen.

    Jo

    PS fragmented threads are going to get confusing.

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Gonz View Post
    This old comment is the crux of our problem right now. The manual seems to show this mark as visible only once you remove the pulley. Is there any alternative to this? Does the pulley itself or the flywheel have a corresponding mark?
    I guess its assumed that if its all together, the crank will be in the right position if the cam is. Not helpful in checking for a correct belt installation though...
    I tried to drown my sorrows in alcohol, but the bastards learnt how to swim

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