Link Engine Management
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  1. #1
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    Default Link Engine Management

    Hi,
    I want to improve the power output of my 205 gti 1.9
    Has anyone replaced the computer ?
    I'm considering purchasing a Link fully programable engine management. This would give me fully mappable fuel and ignition and I could eliminate the air flow meter as well. The cost is around $970 for the Link and I expect between $600 -800 to install and tune.
    I'd be interested if any out there have done this before and what the results were.
    My other option would be to keep the existing std setup and have a head specialist raise the compression a little and multi angle valve job.

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    What do I need to do to get 150 hp ?

    Thankyou

    Peter

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! 505 to the max's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Arnold
    Hi,
    I want to improve the power output of my 205 gti 1.9
    Has anyone replaced the computer ?
    I'm considering purchasing a Link fully programable engine management. This would give me fully mappable fuel and ignition and I could eliminate the air flow meter as well. The cost is around $970 for the Link and I expect between $600 -800 to install and tune.
    I'd be interested if any out there have done this before and what the results were.
    My other option would be to keep the existing std setup and have a head specialist raise the compression a little and multi angle valve job.

    What do I need to do to get 150 hp ?

    Thankyou

    Peter
    I'd start with the ECU. Even if you don't get to 150hp (which is asking a lot of an ECU), it's done and allows you to modify other parts of the motor. It will allow you to adjust any aspects of the tune if they become a hindrance to power gains further down the track.
    Chris.

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! casnell's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Arnold
    Hi,
    I want to improve the power output of my 205 gti 1.9
    Has anyone replaced the computer ?
    I'm considering purchasing a Link fully programable engine management. This would give me fully mappable fuel and ignition and I could eliminate the air flow meter as well. The cost is around $970 for the Link and I expect between $600 -800 to install and tune.
    I'd be interested if any out there have done this before and what the results were.
    My other option would be to keep the existing std setup and have a head specialist raise the compression a little and multi angle valve job.

    What do I need to do to get 150 hp ?

    Thankyou

    Peter
    What series 205? Best thing I ever did to my series 1 was a high comp head ...(and LSD)
    205gti

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts CHRI'S16's Avatar
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    Default

    Do a search for PeterT, i'm sure he has covered this before. Peter often puts ECU's in pugs (205's being his fav).
    but i'm sure peter would also recommend the lower ratio diff. - Chris
    ... ptui!

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Default

    I'd definitely do a fuel/ign. ecu before anything else. If you increase the CR you need to be able to adjust the low-mid range ignition advance to get the best out of it. You'll be amazed at the torque increase by mapping the ign. on a dyno. Getting rid of the AFM increases the intake CFM and gives you freedom of cam timing choices. Cams with more than approx. 240 deg. @ 0.050" play havoc with the AFM at low RPM.

    If you can get to 10.5:1, 3 angle grind and a cam similar to above, you'll crack the 150hp barrier . I used to run the Group A cam, which is approx. 250 degrees, but you'd need 11:1 and double springs for that. Don't get carried away with lift, as the port flow goes dead after 0.450" anyway. Which coincidently, is the limit of the std. springs.
    Last edited by PeterT; 11th July 2005 at 08:45 PM.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  6. #6
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    Thanks for all your assistance here. I've made up my mind. After I get a compression check done I'll get the Link ECU installed and tuned. One more question before I complete this thread. . . I've replaced the HT leads with new silicon leads. Old ones were the original bougicords but i think the originals are copper cored and don't break down anyway. is this correct.
    The other thing is the distributor cap. When I replaced teh leads I found the distributor cap contacts inside has a white powdery buildup (Vertigris ? ?). I cleaned this stuff off and gave a light rub with very fine grade paper. Should this be all that is necessary or should I buy a new distributor cap. It's the screw on type.
    Thanks a Million.

    Regards
    Peter Arnold

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