panhard rods on my renault 12?
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default panhard rods on my renault 12?

    hi i tossed the thought aroung in my mind of putting a panhard rod on my 12. this came to me during a drive in a breif break in the rain today along a quiet, twisty, hilly country road where i was getting some severe tyre scrubbing on the inner guards and the lip of the rear guards. when i got home i had to wash the deposit of rubber off the lip. admitedly i was driving fairly spiritedly as the little bursts of flames i could see in my side mirror will attest to.
    but aside from rebuilding the whole rear end, which may not fix the problem still, is there anything else that will help to aleviate this (apart from bumping the guards out and cracking my nice 2-pac), and will the panhard rod help?
    i am running 14x5 alloys and 175/65-14 bridgestones and i wanted to go out to 185/55-14 falkens but fear it will not be possible even if i do trim the lip of the guard a bit.
    any help?
    thanks

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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3006882
    hi i tossed the thought aroung in my mind of putting a panhard rod on my 12. this came to me during a drive in a breif break in the rain today along a quiet, twisty, hilly country road where i was getting some severe tyre scrubbing on the inner guards and the lip of the rear guards. when i got home i had to wash the deposit of rubber off the lip. admitedly i was driving fairly spiritedly as the little bursts of flames i could see in my side mirror will attest to.
    but aside from rebuilding the whole rear end, which may not fix the problem still, is there anything else that will help to aleviate this (apart from bumping the guards out and cracking my nice 2-pac), and will the panhard rod help?
    i am running 14x5 alloys and 175/65-14 bridgestones and i wanted to go out to 185/55-14 falkens but fear it will not be possible even if i do trim the lip of the guard a bit.
    any help?
    thanks
    I assume you mean something like a Mitsubishi Magna?

    I have thought of similar things for the Fuego but most FWD vehicles with rear beam axles I have seen have the trailing arms solidly connected at the beam axles, meaning that the only pivots are at the chassis mounting points.

    I don't think that R12's naturally have alot of lateral movement in the rear. I would try replacing the central wishbone rear bushes first...

  3. #3
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    I'd suggest if you put a load of cement in the back, both sides would scrape. Mine does even with 13" wheels, because the 175's are simply too wide.

    In any case, the Panhard rod wouldn't do much more than good bushes on the 'A' arm, surely - how about looking through a catalogue for polyurethane bushes that might fit it?

    BTW, doesn't a Panhard rod cause a very slight amount of lateral movement on suspension compression towards the end that's attached to the axle?

    Stuey


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Default panhard rods..

    I would imagine that a combination of the standard "A" frame and an "add on" panhard rod would create a binding effect in the suspension?

    Stuey, you would be right in your comment re the panhard rod operation.
    To decrease the arc of movement both ends of the rod need to be mounted on the extremes of both the chassis and axle.
    Despite this there will always be sideways movement of the axle/body when suspension limits are approached.
    An example of this was on my 404, The tyre clearances from the wheel arch was always different on either side when unladen.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildebeest
    I would imagine that a combination of the standard "A" frame and an "add on" panhard rod would create a binding effect in the suspension?

    Stuey, you would be right in your comment re the panhard rod operation.
    To decrease the arc of movement both ends of the rod need to be mounted on the extremes of both the chassis and axle.
    Despite this there will always be sideways movement of the axle/body when suspension limits are approached.
    An example of this was on my 404, The tyre clearances from the wheel arch was always different on either side when unladen.
    Iwas thinking more along the lines of ditching the A Arm and Panhard Rod located Beam axle and replacing the lot with a lightweight beam axle as used in Audi 100/Magna etc...

    After looking at the geometry of the options the standard A-Arm located beam axle holds the wheels more parallel to the ground (better contact patch) and allows the axle to remain in better contact with the ground instead of changing camber as the car rolls as torsion beams usually do....

    I suppose you could adapt a Watts linkage into the rear but I really dont think it would achieve much...

  6. #6
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    Yeah, new bushes on the A arm would be enough. If you're going to the trouble of engineering a Watts linkage, the same amount of work could have you bend the stub axles with 1-1.5 degree of negative camber and weld-reinforce them, probably just givin you enought clearance with the slight benefit of negative on the rear.

    Stuey


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

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