PRV Fitment into 505s
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  1. #1
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Default PRV Fitment into 505s

    I know this topic has been bashed to death on here, but I've searched and searched the forums and still haven't found a definitive answer to my current mystery.

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    There has been extensive talk on this forum of the ideal setup for a V6 in a 505 - most involving the requirement to move the engine forward to clear the heater fan assembly on the passenger side firewall.

    A couple of things, however, lead me to believe that this might not be the best setup.

    1) Moving the engine forward will cause the bellhousing / lower engine-gearbox mounting points to hit the steering rack. At the moment there is only about 10mm clearance.

    2) In the only photos I can find of genuine 505 V6 engine mounts, they appear to be very close to the 604 ones in design, and identical in lateral location.

    3) Most of the photos I can find of genuine 505 V6s are LHD. There is no fan shroud to hit the back of the cylinder head. Remember that the RH cylinder head actually sits further forward on the block than the LH one.

    4) The only photo I have found on the net of a RHD genuine 505 V6 has a completely different heater fan shroud on it, that does not protrude anywhere near as far from the firewall as the conventional ones that we are used to.

    So my question is thus: Does anyone have any conclusive evidence that there exists a longer torque tube / different engine mount arrangement, and not just heresay and speculation? And can anyone confirm or deny that there was a different heater fan setup on the RHD V6s?

    I'm hoping that someone out here has researched this more than I have.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! jarrods's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demannu
    4) The only photo I have found on the net of a RHD genuine 505 V6 has a completely different heater fan shroud on it, that does not protrude anywhere near as far from the firewall as the conventional ones that we are used to.

    So my question is thus: Does anyone have any conclusive evidence that there exists a longer torque tube / different engine mount arrangement, and not just heresay and speculation? And can anyone confirm or deny that there was a different heater fan setup on the RHD V6s?

    I'm hoping that someone out here has researched this more than I have.
    I have seen one genuine RHD V6. The engine appeared to sit in the same spot but it was dark and a little difficult to tell. The differance was the car did not have air and had a much thinner air box in the centre of the firewall. The pipe to the fan was also slightly thinner. If you can do without air this would be the best way. You may be able to get one from NZ. If you want air you could probably make up a new air box and pipe and get a thinner air con core. (the standard box is about 6" deep) This would all be hidden behind the sound proofing.
    The other option is you just bolt it in and not worry about it. Iv'e seen a few around like this and they don't seem to cause any problem.

    Jarrod

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by jarrods
    I have seen one genuine RHD V6. The engine appeared to sit in the same spot but it was dark and a little difficult to tell. The differance was the car did not have air and had a much thinner air box in the centre of the firewall. The pipe to the fan was also slightly thinner. If you can do without air this would be the best way. You may be able to get one from NZ. If you want air you could probably make up a new air box and pipe and get a thinner air con core. (the standard box is about 6" deep) This would all be hidden behind the sound proofing.
    The other option is you just bolt it in and not worry about it. Iv'e seen a few around like this and they don't seem to cause any problem.

    Jarrod
    Yes, I've never seen proof of the V6 sitting further forward, just an idea someone came up with I think.
    Graham

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! Roland's Avatar
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    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...sPageName=ADME

    Pictures don't show much but they may help!

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts bowie's Avatar
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    i was under the impression it made stuff all difference that the block was hitting the shorud or not!!

    What issues are there with it sitting against it anyway?
    having said that.. mine is cracked to the shit anyway was thinking of pissing it of just to stop it crumbeling all over my driveway

    Works: 2003 YV Commodore (That is Cecil to you)
    Playing: R12, SuperPos, thinks It's a race car and Sunny the R12 Lego set.
    Previous: SuperGrumpy fuel spitting 504ti(ish), SuperComfortable 505 STI, SuperDoper carried my groceries Mi16, Choo Choo'd Volvo S40
    Wanted Will hoard 12/15/17 Junk.

    "More and more of less and less" - Marina Abramović

  6. #6
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowie
    i was under the impression it made stuff all difference that the block was hitting the shorud or not!!

    What issues are there with it sitting against it anyway?
    having said that.. mine is cracked to the shit anyway was thinking of pissing it of just to stop it crumbeling all over my driveway
    It's not just the heat shield that it hits, with that removed it will still hit the aircon box in behind that!
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts bowie's Avatar
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    still??

    So??

    Works: 2003 YV Commodore (That is Cecil to you)
    Playing: R12, SuperPos, thinks It's a race car and Sunny the R12 Lego set.
    Previous: SuperGrumpy fuel spitting 504ti(ish), SuperComfortable 505 STI, SuperDoper carried my groceries Mi16, Choo Choo'd Volvo S40
    Wanted Will hoard 12/15/17 Junk.

    "More and more of less and less" - Marina Abramović

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! OddFireV6's Avatar
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    Based on first hand experience I can tell you that you can simply let the LH head rub up against the heater unit, this does not appear to cause it big problem but rather it’s aesthetically displeasing.

    You can also modify the fan housing, the square outlet is about 100mm * 100mm and its only the lowermost forward most corner that fouls the head. I cut this area by 50mm in each direction and flattened off the corner, I plastic welded in a new flat face in place of the corner and blended this back into the fan body. I cut the boot to suit the slightly smaller area of the fan outlet. This leaves around 30 mm clearance which is plenty and allows fitting of the softer late model heat insulating material.
    OddfireV6
    504 V6 24V, 203

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts bowie's Avatar
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    to easy

    Works: 2003 YV Commodore (That is Cecil to you)
    Playing: R12, SuperPos, thinks It's a race car and Sunny the R12 Lego set.
    Previous: SuperGrumpy fuel spitting 504ti(ish), SuperComfortable 505 STI, SuperDoper carried my groceries Mi16, Choo Choo'd Volvo S40
    Wanted Will hoard 12/15/17 Junk.

    "More and more of less and less" - Marina Abramović

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! aquinian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OddFireV6
    You can also modify the fan housing, the square outlet is about 100mm * 100mm and its only the lowermost forward most corner that fouls the head. I cut this area by 50mm in each direction and flattened off the corner, I plastic welded in a new flat face in place of the corner and blended this back into the fan body. I cut the boot to suit the slightly smaller area of the fan outlet. This leaves around 30 mm clearance which is plenty and allows fitting of the softer late model heat insulating material.
    I did a similar thing, which was to remove the entire box, cut an inch or so slice of it out, and then glue the two halves back together as a narrower version of the original. The rubber boot I also cut some out of to make it fit the smaller cold-air box. Unlike Rob's success, my efforts resulted in engine-bay heat leaking into the box, and therefore into the cabin. Result? Warm air even in summer. Although it is nice in winter.

    At some point I plan to re-do this exercise, along the lines Rob suggests or by removing the thing altogether.

    Regards,
    John Lane.
    Current: 406 Coupe, 504 Sedan

    Previous: 306XSi, 205GTi, 206Gti, 505 V6, 505 Wagon, 504 Sedan, 504 Wagon, 306Gti6, 306XT, 205Si, Citroen XM, Citroen Xantia

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