R17TS alternator
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! G4ME's Avatar
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    Default R17TS alternator

    I have a 74 17TS and I am convinced the alternator is too under-powered. If I'm at idle the electric windows wont budge. Also sitting at traffic lights with the blinkers on drains the power until the blinkers stop. I remember I had the same experience in another 17TS I had.
    Anyway, has anyone had any experience or suggestions with replacing it with a bigger alternator without doing too many modifications. I'm not even sure if it's a Bosch or Rhone jobbie....guess I could check that.
    Open for suggestions!!!

    Thanks...Paul

    ps I'm looking at adding more and more power using devices like a radio and possibly a Halda.

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  2. #2
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    The stock 17TS/G alternator was 50 amps. Probably to cope with the injectors and extra electrics. A good starting point may be to check that it has at least a 50 amp alternator, and hasn't been replaced in the distant past with a 30/40 amp version from a 15TS/17TL.

    Otherwise it may be an idea to visit an auto electrician for a suitable high amperage Bosch (brand chosen for ease of parts availability) alternator that lines up with all the brackets, and doesn't touch the bonnet.

  3. #3
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    Even if it doesn't have the same lugs on it, the front housing section can simply be interchanged between a small capacity and large capacity Bosch unit...

    The difference in capacity can readily be seen in the section between the alloy front and rear housings. This is the magnet (don't know what it's called, really) section, made up of pieces of thin steel. The thickness of this section is what shows the rating... the more steel in there, the more power it generates.

  4. #4
    Simon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Bell
    Even if it doesn't have the same lugs on it, the front housing section can simply be interchanged between a small capacity and large capacity Bosch unit...
    Close but not quite.

    The OE alternator on a 17TS/G is a Paris Rhone.

    Whilst the width of the stator windings is a measure of its power, it will depend on the type of Bosch alternator as to whether the front housings will interchange with the remainder of the alternator. If they are of a similar era, likely yes, but just because it is a Bosch alternator does not mean that all parts are interchangeable. I realise that may not have been your intention, but felt that it was an important difference to comment on.

  5. #5
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    Well that's a tip for me, Simon...

    All the ones I've ever played with have interchanged, but it would be no surprise to find some that don't.

    By the way, some other brands are Bosch-designed too. Ingram I know.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! G4ME's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone for your responses. I'll have a bit of a look at it tomorrow and see what can be done.
    Again, thanks for advice.
    There is a law against doing more than 100kmh...there's no law on how fast you get to 100kmh!!!

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts HONG KONG PUGGY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by G4ME
    Thanks everyone for your responses. I'll have a bit of a look at it tomorrow and see what can be done.
    Again, thanks for advice.
    Ingrams would be a good place to start, as they do make their own line of Bosch 'copy' parts. I was after a starter motor Drive, and the difference in price from Ingrams<Genuine Bosch was $25 on the one part.
    http://www.ingram.com.au/

    They've got all the catalogues listed.
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  8. #8
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Default Alternator

    Quote Originally Posted by G4ME
    I have a 74 17TS and I am convinced the alternator is too under-powered. If I'm at idle the electric windows wont budge. Also sitting at traffic lights with the blinkers on drains the power until the blinkers stop. I remember I had the same experience in another 17TS I had.
    Anyway, has anyone had any experience or suggestions with replacing it with a bigger alternator without doing too many modifications. I'm not even sure if it's a Bosch or Rhone jobbie....guess I could check that.
    Open for suggestions!!!

    Thanks...Paul

    ps I'm looking at adding more and more power using devices like a radio and possibly a Halda.
    Hi Paul

    Even if it is a 40 amp alternator there should be no problems with it running quite a few devices. Power windows and ignition draw nothing like 40 amps. You would only expect problems with a high load, like headlights, heater fans etc all going.

    Haldas and radios (unless it is a ghetto blaster system) draw little current. Driving lights are normally the killer.

    What is more likely is a problem with it (typically a field diode open circuit) which means it will be low in voltage and output.

    Does the warning light stay dimly lit all time ? or does the warning light only go out after revving the engine ? These are symptoms of a field diode or regulator fault.

    Quick way off checking is to get an accurate volt meter and start the engine . get someone to hold about 2000 rpm, measure the voltage (dc, 20 volt range on meter) it shound be in the range 13.8 to 14.5. Typically 14.3

    Turn on the lights and other loads the voltage should hold.

    If it reduces considerably or is lower than stated the alternator or reg is most likely faulty.

    regards

    Robert

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! G4ME's Avatar
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    Thanks Robert,
    I've organised for French Connection to have a look at it tomorrow and they can put their meters on it etc.
    I can say that the warning light doesn't come on at all but I notice the voltage gauge ever decreasing when I'm at idle with anything on (blinkers etc).
    Anyway, I'll see how we go tomorrow and then visit Ingrams to solve whatever we find.
    Thanks again.

    Paul
    There is a law against doing more than 100kmh...there's no law on how fast you get to 100kmh!!!

  10. #10
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by G4ME
    Thanks Robert,
    I've organised for French Connection to have a look at it tomorrow and they can put their meters on it etc.
    I can say that the warning light doesn't come on at all but I notice the voltage gauge ever decreasing when I'm at idle with anything on (blinkers etc).
    Anyway, I'll see how we go tomorrow and then visit Ingrams to solve whatever we find.
    Thanks again.

    Paul
    Paul,

    What was the outcome?????

    What you've described could also relate to tired battery or some poor (high resistance) connections somewhere. You shouldn't need alternator output to be high to avoid what you described - after all the battery is really an electrical reservoir and should be able to support a short term high current draw without voltage drop.

    Please let us know what happened.

    Ta

    JohnW

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! G4ME's Avatar
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    Hi Rob,
    I went around to French Connection today and used their meter. With the headlights and blinkers and the car running at idle it stalled after a couple of minutes running. We ran the meter over it and it was showing about 12.4 volts. So I swapped out the regulator and there was no change. So with that eliminated I have decided to pull the alternator off and get it reco'd and up the ampage a bit. Cos I will possibly be running a ghetto blaster and also extra driving lights in the future.
    So tomorrow the alternator comes off.

    Thanks again...Paul
    There is a law against doing more than 100kmh...there's no law on how fast you get to 100kmh!!!

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! G4ME's Avatar
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    Hi John,
    The battery is less than 12 months old so I don't think that is the cause of my dilemma.
    Thanks anyway.
    There is a law against doing more than 100kmh...there's no law on how fast you get to 100kmh!!!

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