Flashlube For Pinging
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  1. #1
    mlb
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    Default Flashlube For Pinging

    Just a quick question.

    Does Flashlube, or any other similar fuel additive, have any effect on the octane level of fuel? I've noticed lately that my car has started pinging a little under load. Timing and points are fine, so the only other thing I can think of is a dodgy batch of fuel.

    So would putting a bit of flashlube in the tank help alleviate this in the short term until I can get some better fuel?

    Just a thought

    Matt

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    EDIT: I should say I am already running PULP, just in case anyone was going to suggest it.
    Last edited by mlb; 14th April 2005 at 11:36 AM.
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  2. #2
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Default

    i'd say a dud batch of fuel

    i get it sometimes in the 604 but it's not standard either

    i find that when the water runs out for the water injection and it has something other than BP PULP in it and it is a hot day it will ping

    the car is set at the standard 12deg static timing

    if i run 98 octane i have no trouble at all

    the water/metho helps a lot though i have found and also improves performance and economy

    i only ever use the water injection when i am running the car out of town so i don't have to worry about running it on relatively short trips around town

    very simple setup and it only costs around $2 to set up so it's not quite in the 50c club but damn close
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by pugrambo
    the water/metho helps a lot though i have found and also improves performance and economy

    i only ever use the water injection when i am running the car out of town so i don't have to worry about running it on relatively short trips around town

    very simple setup and it only costs around $2 to set up so it's not quite in the 50c club but damn close
    Pugrambo - do you have a link to your guide for setting up water injection?
    Also, do you find it useful to counteract valve recession or do you need to use upper cyl lube as well?

  4. #4
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by graham66
    Pugrambo - do you have a link to your guide for setting up water injection?
    Also, do you find it useful to counteract valve recession or do you need to use upper cyl lube as well?

    i'll try and find the link but the crux of it all is

    you need a range of hypodermic needles from the chemist, some air line hose from the pet shop, a toe from your better 1/2's stockings she put a stairway to heaven in , and a container to hold water

    you then put the container where you can find room at a level below the carby

    place some stocking over one end of the hose to act as a filter and place in the container

    ensure the container has a hole in the lid to allow air to enter as water level goes down

    place the needle in the other end of the hose

    make sure the hose is long enough to reach the carby

    find the vacuum line for the dissy going into the carby

    feed the needle into the rubber line so it protudes out of the end of the rubber line

    place the vacuum line back onto the carby and if need be place a little silastic around where the needle enters the line to ensure an air tight join

    place some water or water/metho in the bottle

    start the car and at idle you should not have any water in the lines, then crack the throttle to around 1500-2000rpm and watch to make sure the water starts to flow

    with the lines empty the water flow will be fairly fast but then cut back to a trickle

    you will be able to hear slightly the water entering the throat in the carby at revs

    watch out the rear of the car when doing this as you will start to get some black gunk coming out as it will be cleaning the carbon out at the same time so don't do any of this in the back yard with the car backed up near the clothes line otherwise youe other 1/2 will be a little upset

    go for a drive and see how the car goes and if you want you can advance the timing little by little untill it pings and then back it off a tad

    make sure that where you set the dissy that the car will start when cold

    you should be able to safely run up to around 6-8deg more advance over standard on a standard engine

    the performance will astound you and the economy will follow

    the next thing is to see how much water you are using

    you should be using around 5-15% water

    so around 2L of water should last you a tankfull of fuel in a normal car

    before the old engine blew a head gasket i had been running water injection and the car went from 13mpg to 20 mpg and more power from a 400k old engine

    when the engine was pulled down it was as clean as a whistle inside without a spec of carbon to be found

    the water slows the flame front down and cools the charge so the burn on ignition stroke is burning most of the way pushing the piston instead of one big bang

    as for VSR it won't do a thing

    i don't need to worry about VSR as the PRV motor has hard seats
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  5. #5
    ade
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    Default Sparkplugs......

    Pugrambo, I know this will blow the $2 budget but did you use warmer plugs for the water injection?

  6. #6
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ade
    Pugrambo, I know this will blow the $2 budget but did you use warmer plugs for the water injection?

    i put standard plug in for the car

    the engine now has 4k on it and it has run in nicely and pulls very hard once you hit around 3k rpm

    i gave it a good run yesterday and had upchanges around 4500-5500 and it sounded good and pulled harder than a teenage boy

    so normal plugs and timing standard as the engine isn't standard
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  7. #7
    ade
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    Default Makes sense when you think about it.

    As you mentioned, you advanced the timing so I imagine any cooling effect may have been countered ('taken advantage of' may be a more appropriate term) thus no need for the change in plugs.

  8. #8
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ade
    As you mentioned, you advanced the timing so I imagine any cooling effect may have been countered ('taken advantage of' may be a more appropriate term) thus no need for the change in plugs.

    hotter plugs are really only any good if you are either burning oil or you do a lot of very short trips

    with the timing advanced the car will run a bit warmer anyway but as winter is coming on it should be fine

    i don't really worry about changing plugs for seasons or for the injection

    also i am not far away now from finishing off the fuel injection for the car

    i'm going to hunt around for some EFI injectors and probably go megasquirt on the car instead of the mechanical system
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  9. #9
    mlb
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    Default

    So 'rambo, this sound far to easy to be true. Surely there must be some draw backs or associated problems.

    And exactly how good are the improvments. If they were that significant, and being a simple fix, I would have thought it would be more common.

    Not doubting, just asking.

    Matt
    Fight for your opinions, but do not believe that they contain the whole truth, or the only truth.

  10. #10
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlb
    So 'rambo, this sound far to easy to be true. Surely there must be some draw backs or associated problems.

    And exactly how good are the improvments. If they were that significant, and being a simple fix, I would have thought it would be more common.

    Not doubting, just asking.

    Matt

    drawbacks are if you run out of water with the timing advanced the car will ping like buggery

    if you do a lot of short trips with the water injection going you will end up with water in the oil in the case of older engines

    some people have always been a bit sceptical of water injection and hence it isn't as common as it used to be

    a lot of the turbo guys use it to have cool charges in the cars but they run a pumped system

    i prefer to run 50/50 water/ethanol (metho)

    benefits are more usable power = better economy

    better burn for ignition stroke = more power = better economy
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  11. #11
    mlb
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    Quote Originally Posted by pugrambo
    drawbacks are if you run out of water with the timing advanced the car will ping like buggery

    if you do a lot of short trips with the water injection going you will end up with water in the oil in the case of older engines

    some people have always been a bit sceptical of water injection and hence it isn't as common as it used to be

    a lot of the turbo guys use it to have cool charges in the cars but they run a pumped system

    i prefer to run 50/50 water/ethanol (metho)

    benefits are more usable power = better economy

    better burn for ignition stroke = more power = better economy
    OK, might have to put it on my to do list. I suppose setting the timing is a bit of a hit and miss affair. Set for around 16 degrees in my case, test it, if it pings back it off, if not advance a bit more. Or is there a more technical way to do it?
    Fight for your opinions, but do not believe that they contain the whole truth, or the only truth.

  12. #12
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlb
    OK, might have to put it on my to do list. I suppose setting the timing is a bit of a hit and miss affair. Set for around 16 degrees in my case, test it, if it pings back it off, if not advance a bit more. Or is there a more technical way to do it?

    that's about it

    it all depends on your engine and how much advance it can handle

    the only thing you need to watch is that you can start it cold with the advance set at more than standard so the best trick is to do it when you aren't working the next day so you have some time to fiddle if need be

    metho no name brand is a bit over $1/L but you can run straight water if you want
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

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