S16 What to do now?????
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    19

    Default S16 What to do now?????

    Hey Guys

    I am nearly at breaking point! Some of you would have read my last thread Help Damn s16, when I explained how my s16 was running extremely rough, using heaps of fuel etc.

    My question now is, one of the intake diaphrams is not functioning, this is causing the usual extreme lack of power above 3500 rpm, but will this also cause it to idle very rough nearly sounding like a rotar, then when I accelerate it is missing right through the rev range (sounding like a boxer engine).

    In my last post I mentioned I have had a full ECU scan, replaced the O2 sensor, then rescanned,no more faults. So I have then replaced all coil packs and spark plugs. Still running badly. Took the car to Kent Town Auto Tune as reccomended by Charles St Auto and left it there for a few days. They hit me with a whopping bill an the car is running worse than when I took it there. They cleaned the injectors and didn't find any improvement from that. They checked fuel flow it was 1.4lt/min. seems ok. The emmissions were fine, as was the back pressure from the exhaust! They reckon its running on all 4 cylinders??

    Im so frustrated as I have spend over $1500 in the last month trying to get the car running well but no one can fix it properly!

    Advertisement


    Any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

    Cheers

    Tim

  2. #2
    2000+ Brad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    2,404

    Default

    Crank angle/speed sensor? When mine went it took the the Pug Dealer mechanics several hours labour to find the problem even though they had all the diagnostic equipement.
    B to the R to the A from the D
    1994 MX5 Clubman...are you sure it's not French?

  3. #3
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Cheers Brad,

    will put that on the list to check.

    Tim

  4. #4
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923

    Default

    Tim,

    If my memory serves me correctly, those diaphrams should really be changed as a pair as I am sure there's been a couple who have done one, found little difference and then discovered the second one packed up almost as the new one went in on the other side, that's on the Mi16 S2 anyway.
    I always try to get anything that I know is dodgy sorted before I go looking for anything else, so I'd suggest you get the diaphram business out of the way before proceeding any further. Once they are done, next thing I would be checking is that the plug leads are right. Again, can't speak for your car but on the BX16V and series one Mi16 there are two leads exactly the same length and the symptoms sound exactly as you've described your engine behaving. I presume that somewhere along the line someone has done a compression test on it?
    Might be a long shot, but worth investigating; any port in a storm.

    Alan S
    Last edited by Alan S; 31st March 2005 at 11:32 PM.
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts CHRI'S16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    3,298

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tims16
    Hey Guys

    I am nearly at breaking point! Some of you would have read my last thread Help Damn s16, when I explained how my s16 was running extremely rough, using heaps of fuel etc.

    My question now is, one of the intake diaphrams is not functioning, this is causing the usual extreme lack of power above 3500 rpm, but will this also cause it to idle very rough nearly sounding like a rotar, then when I accelerate it is missing right through the rev range (sounding like a boxer engine).

    In my last post I mentioned I have had a full ECU scan, replaced the O2 sensor, then rescanned,no more faults. So I have then replaced all coil packs and spark plugs. Still running badly. Took the car to Kent Town Auto Tune as reccomended by Charles St Auto and left it there for a few days. They hit me with a whopping bill an the car is running worse than when I took it there. They cleaned the injectors and didn't find any improvement from that. They checked fuel flow it was 1.4lt/min. seems ok. The emmissions were fine, as was the back pressure from the exhaust! They reckon its running on all 4 cylinders??

    Im so frustrated as I have spend over $1500 in the last month trying to get the car running well but no one can fix it properly!

    Any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

    Cheers

    Tim
    Tim ,why did you pay for something that had not been fixed? I would argue a wopping bill if my car came back worse than it arrived, but they will probably screw ya anyway.... lol. - Chris

    ps. Did you agree to any warranty on the repairs?
    ... ptui!

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    863

    Default

    The vacuum pots should only affect the low down torque not high end power, once you get above about 45000 RPM the engine should perform as normal. when in the up position the inlet is in long narrow mode (for better low end torque) when in the down position the manifold is in short fat mode for high airflow at higher revs giving better power. I never noticed any missing or rough idling whilst the vaccum pots (or the solenoid that controls them) were faulty, just basically gutless under 4000RPM.

    I did have a problem that may be like what you are experiencing (though a bit of a variant). Took 12 weeks to get it sorted, sent the ECU off nothing wrong, tried changing every sensor on the car, no change, the ECU kept giving fault codes that didn't exist (not even peugeot in France could say what they meant).... turned out to be a rubbed through wire somewhere in the wiring harness in the engine bay. My fault was a bit more extreme than yours, in that the engine would just cut out (and we aren't talking soft cut either!!! first time was at about 6000RPM in first gear, the car nearly stood on its nose!) randomly between about 3000, and 6000 RPM (deteriorated to 1500RPM in the end).

    So I'd be getting them to check the wiring harness for signs that it has been rubbing somewhere.

    Tony.

    edit: does the problem only occur when the car has reached operating temp? did they check the coils when hot? the coils fail in such a way as the car runs fine till it heats up, then it will die....

    someone metioned plug leads, the S16 doesn't have any, the coils sit directly on top of the spark plugs, one coil per plug.
    Last edited by Wintermute; 8th April 2005 at 12:07 PM.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •