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Thread: PRV Extractors

  1. #1
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Default PRV Extractors

    Everyone seems to have so many problems finding parts for PRV conversions into 505s, and it seems that I've hit the wall also.

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    I have a 2664cc oddfire block, with 2849cc pistons and liners, with 2849cc evenfire heads, ported and polished, and with a hole drilled to take the oddfire distributor and camshafts, B280 intake manifold with custom extension to clear the distributor and plumbed to a gasresearch carb and airflow meter on top of the manifold (for dual fuel operation), renault 30 flywheel and clutch setup, genuine 505 V6 BA10 5 speed gearbox, and a RHD bellhousing to suit.

    Now, the exhaust gasses will flow out of the beautifully flowing exhaust ports and into..... an abomination. The 604 exhaust manifold is, to say the least, PATHETIC.

    Does anyone have any experience getting extractors made to suit these engines? Unless someone has a set currently out of a car, that would suit a 505 with power steering that I could use as a template, I'm probably going to have to go to an exhaust place with the PRV in the trailer sitting on a crossmember with a steering rack attached, towed behind a 505 so they should be able to make all the measurements they want!

    In that case, does anyone know of any good places in Adelaide to have extractors made? Otherwise are there any places anywhere else in the country that could make them without having the car there, and hopefully get them right?

    I've considered using 505 V6 manifolds and downpipes, which are far superior to 604 ones, but for the cost of getting them over here I will be much better off with a proper set of extractors.

    And before anyone says anything, the Volvo manifolds are no use, they would direct the exhaust conveniently into the firewall.

    Cheers,
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demannu
    Everyone seems to have so many problems finding parts for PRV conversions into 505s, and it seems that I've hit the wall also.

    I have a 2664cc oddfire block, with 2849cc pistons and liners, with 2849cc evenfire heads, ported and polished, and with a hole drilled to take the oddfire distributor and camshafts, B280 intake manifold with custom extension to clear the distributor and plumbed to a gasresearch carb and airflow meter on top of the manifold (for dual fuel operation), renault 30 flywheel and clutch setup, genuine 505 V6 BA10 5 speed gearbox, and a RHD bellhousing to suit.

    Now, the exhaust gasses will flow out of the beautifully flowing exhaust ports and into..... an abomination. The 604 exhaust manifold is, to say the least, PATHETIC.

    Does anyone have any experience getting extractors made to suit these engines? Unless someone has a set currently out of a car, that would suit a 505 with power steering that I could use as a template, I'm probably going to have to go to an exhaust place with the PRV in the trailer sitting on a crossmember with a steering rack attached, towed behind a 505 so they should be able to make all the measurements they want!

    In that case, does anyone know of any good places in Adelaide to have extractors made? Otherwise are there any places anywhere else in the country that could make them without having the car there, and hopefully get them right?

    I've considered using 505 V6 manifolds and downpipes, which are far superior to 604 ones, but for the cost of getting them over here I will be much better off with a proper set of extractors.

    And before anyone says anything, the Volvo manifolds are no use, they would direct the exhaust conveniently into the firewall.

    Cheers,

    No, the Volvo manifolds will fit, we used ones from a 760 but the 260 look to be the same.
    We didn't notice any great performance difference from the 604 manifolds, but the engine is only a stock 280F. I tend to think that the 604 manifolds aren't as bad as they look.
    Graham

  3. #3
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    Default Prv

    Renault 30 manifolds do the trick in V6 505.I have a V6 on the floor with these manifolds we used on a hot 2.8l.An Mi16 had no chance with it up to 160kph.You can U turn on the throttle as well.Tyre smoke of both back tyres through 2nd gear on 8" michelins!

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts edgedweller's Avatar
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    G'day Demanu,

    If all else fails, see Denni at D&T, 12 Gilbert Street City, very professional, every thing on hand, dyno out the back.

    Cheers ed ge

    Ps. I will visit one day. What happened to the '04?

  5. #5
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    I'm not familiar with the R30 manifolds. Does anyone have a photo of a set that I can look at, then if I like them I might try to track some down? I had assumed that they were the same as the 604 ones.

    Edge, I've heard good things about those guys, I'll give them a call and have a chat to them. $$ is the issue at the moment, and unfortunately, due to a mortgage, I dont see that changing anytime soon!
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  6. #6
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    if they are the same as the 605 manifolds then there is a picture of them on this forum

    just do a search for 605 exhaust manifolds
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  7. #7
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Thanks for that Pugrambo......

    The 605 manifold looks much, much better than the 604 one. It still isn't ideal, but it looks far superior to the 90 degree bend that the end cylinders have to encounter in the 604. Does anyone know for sure if this one is the same as the Renault 30?
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  8. #8
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    the 605 one is also the same as the citroen XM as well

    i did hunt down some but they were just too expensive to bring into the country

    there were another pair on an XM that was damaged but he didn't want to deparate them from the engine (Dekas' father's old car)

    be interesting to know if the R30 is the same

    your local exhaust place or maybe repco may have a pic of the R30 in their exhaust books

    it's a long shot but maybe worth a try
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demannu
    Thanks for that Pugrambo......

    The 605 manifold looks much, much better than the 604 one. It still isn't ideal, but it looks far superior to the 90 degree bend that the end cylinders have to encounter in the 604. Does anyone know for sure if this one is the same as the Renault 30?
    The outlet to the down pipe on the Renault 30 is actually smaller in diameter than the 604 one.
    A better shape though, it looks much the same as a 504 manifold. The three outlets blend into one without any sharp bends.
    Graham

  10. #10
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Interesting point. Does it look like there is enough meat in the manifold to attack it with the dremel and open it up a bit? Or is it already too thin?

    I've never had any complaints about the diameter of the 604 manifolds, after all, when you think about it, the downpipe is still only breathing for one cylinder at a time. Smaller even, just a tad, I dont think would have that much of a difference. The flow path is more critical, so I will look into both the 605 and R30 manifolds.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  11. #11
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    when you look at it though you are only exhausting 1.4L of engine

    i blocked up the EGR ports in my heads and ground them out to provide a better flow into the manifold

    i also match ported them as well but i found they didn't need a lot

    the engine pipes are the same size that the 2L toyotas run so they aren't too bad really

    i found this out as they run the same flange gaskets
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  12. #12
    farmerdave
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    R 30 manifolds are the same as the R25 v6 ones- they exit towards the rear of the engine and have a conical seal and two studs to make the connection.
    The exit is at about 45 degrees, and the remainder of the bend is in the connecting pipe before it drops down under the car. From memory the pipe is 1.5" diameter. I'll try to find a drawing.

    Farmerdave

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! OddFireV6's Avatar
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    Interesting arrangement you have chosen here. I too have fitted s distributor to an even fire head but since I am using an even fire bottom end I fitted an XE Falcon Bosch distributor rotor so that I have an even fire trigger. I will still use the HT distributor on the front of the left head. Have you made an oil gallery under the disy drive so that the drive gears are always in oil as they are in an oddfire head? I did this using a bit of PRV rocker cover.

    With the GRA carb sitting centrally on top of the evenfire manifold I believe there is only about 10 or 15mm clearance on the bonnet, have you closed your bonnet yet to check the clearance? I am locating the carburettor so that the progression port of the carb sits in the divot on the top of the even fire manifold. I had considered offsetting the carb to the left but I disliked the asymmetry of this.

    As far as extractors go I made my own, I suggest that you have them custom built to suit the car and this can only be done properly on the complete car. Make sure the extractors can be fitted and removed without engine removal. I had the flange plates made and I bought 3 into 1 collectors and stacks of 45 degree and 90 degree mandrel bends. The rest was 2 days of cutting welding grinding etc.
    OddfireV6
    504 V6 24V, 203

  14. #14
    farmerdave
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    Two drawings from the R30 manual showing the basic outline and flow of the manifolds.

    Farmerdave
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails PRV Extractors-1402.jpg   PRV Extractors-1401.jpg  

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    Tadpole
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    Any drawings or pics of 605 manifolds?

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    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Volvo Rick
    Any drawings or pics of 605 manifolds?

    here is a link that contains a pic of the 605 manifolds

    60x exhaust manifold
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  17. #17
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, you've given me a nice selection to chose from.

    I've done the wrecker ringaround, and one guy even laughed at me when I asked for a pair of exhaust manifolds for a R30/R25 V6. Another didnt even know the 25 came in a V6, or that the 30 ever existed.

    So I've exhausted Adelaide, Melbourne and Sydney's wreckers, any other suggestions? Does anyone have said manifolds lying around? (not likely).

    I was thinking more about the Volvo option - Graham, you suggest that they fit, but I think it would be a VERY close fit between the engine and the firewall. How much clearance were you left with? It appears that the Renault versions were very similar to the Volvo manifolds, except that they had an angled outlet pipe. Also, the manifolds for the genuine 505 V6 are identical in appearance as those for the R30/R25 ones.

    Perhaps I could have the Volvo ones modified with an angular outlet?

    Otherwise it will be custom extractors, but at the moment I'm looking for the easiest way out (without using the 604 manifolds, of which I have about 10 pairs already.

    Oddfire, there are a few reasons why I have chosen this particular layout.
    From the start I have wanted to keep the oddfire arrangement, mainly due to the haunting sound that it makes, but also because bottom ends are much cheaper to find on the odd chance (likely with the supercharger) that I start destroying them. I have actually modified an oddfire distributor to fit in the front of the passenger side timing chain cover, being driven directly from an allen key fitting into the bolt that holds the sprocket onto the camshaft, but it is ungainly, and I simply don't like it. I had to make a new pipe from the manifold to the GRA carby anyway, so I thought what the heck.

    You know, it never crossed my mind to use the evenfire distributor and just use the bottom of the oddfire distributor for the trigger. That's brilliant. Still might look into that. Actually, I think that the cap and rotor button for the oddfire will be cheaper, and I'm tighter than a fishes asshole, and that's watertight.

    As yet I haven't done anything about oil to the distributor drive, but it is definately high on the priority list. I have been spending nights with the dremel cleaning up mainly exhaust ports this week. Fortunately, the B280 heads don't have the ports for the EGR system drilled into them, however the "humps" are still there ( ). Cost cutting on castings, I guess.

    I wanted to use the B280 heads over the earlier ones, mainly because of the intake port arrangement. On the early heads, the intake has a nearly 90 degree bend as it approaches the valve head. The later models have a more direct intake curve, with the ports located higher up on the heads and the evenfire manifold continuing upwards following the nice smooth gas flow pattern. The long runners should give plenty of torque, and the nice straight lines should still leave plenty of top end. Also, the injectors are located slightly further from the valve in the B280, but still aimed directly at the valve without any curves in between, which will give better atomisation of the fuel, particularly as the L-jetronic is a non sequential system and still injects fuel while the valve is closed and there is minimal airflow.

    I will be using 604 camshafts. They need to be the oddfire versions, so that they still have the distributor drive on the driver's side camshaft. Also, the 604 one has the least overlap, and really is the most mild camshaft out of the lot of them. The B280 camshafts actually have a lot of overlap, and require reliefs in the pistons to prevent valves hitting pistons. I was told that they still shouldn't hit, but in practice, THEY DO. Trust me on this, I can show you the bent valves if you don't believe me. I'm using B28 pistons and liners, with no reliefs. Overlap is not what I want for forced induction.

    The disadvantage of the standard B280 head is that because the intake port is higher up, there is more interference in the port design by the casting around the base of the valve spring. However, it is very close to the valve, and any swirl it may induce is not going to interfere excessively with good gas flow. Besides, after I attack it with the dremel, it will be a little better (the casting at this point is 4.5mm thick. I think I can safely take off 1.5-2mm.

    The GRA carb will be located centrally on top of the evenfire manfold. I cannot offset it because it would interfere with the fuel injection rails (remember that I am keeping the system as dual-fuel). I have already had to move the pressure regulator on flexible pipes. This setup is 8mm less in height than the twin plenum oddfire setup. The throttle on the carb will be on the driver's side. Directly in front of the carb is the airflow meter.

    The above is only what I have learned from looking, measuring and pondering. If you disagree with anything, I'm very keen to hear your opinions. (Oddfire, Pugrambo, this means you.)

    Again, does anyone have a pair of Renault exhaust manifolds lying around?
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  18. #18
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    What's wrong with using two 3-cyl distributors (ex Daihatsu, for instance)?

  19. #19
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Bell
    What's wrong with using two 3-cyl distributors (ex Daihatsu, for instance)?
    What's wrong with using the original?

    Fits straight in, it's the electronic Volvo version, and I dont have to find somewhere to fit a second distributor. Sure, it would be possible to use 2, but i prefer the KISS method (Keep It Stupid, Simple). It would work ok if you were keeping the kettering system, but in an electronic ignition setup, you would need two ignition amplifiers, two coils, etc etc.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  20. #20
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    Sure, I agree, but I thought you had posted that you'd fitted a second distributor... did I read that incorrectly about driving one off the front of the camshaft?

  21. #21
    Fellow Frogger! OddFireV6's Avatar
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    Demannu

    I agree the logic of cheapness and availability of oddfire bottom ends, in choosing bottom ends there is no great performance difference other than the engine beat or note as you say. I also agree that it is the heads of the evenfire that are an improvement particularly as once ported the inlet ports are a good arrangement, you can see most of the top of the inlet valve. Also the oil gallery under the cam lobes eradicates cam lobe failure, a common problem with oddfire heads.

    In respect of B280 evenfire inlet porting it is possible to completely waste the bulge around the guide
    (I think this is what you mean by the spring base) and you end up with almost a constant circular hole from the manifold face to the valve head, a good arrangement for a port with as you say only a gentle bend.

    You would not be able to use the HT distributor on the front left head, these only ever came in evenfire format and so would not work with an oddfire crank.

    If you bent valves with a factory oddfire cam and the heads or block had not been machined it must be that the cam timing was not correct, its generally not necessary to relieve pistons until you exceed 9.5mm lift and about 65degrees overlap, this assumes oddfire heads. Did the valve bending occur with the evenfire head on oddfire block arrangement? I have not personally tried this and so cannot comment. I would personally never assemble one of these engines without two dial indicators and a degree wheel.

    Standard 604 cams are not optimal, while with forced induction overlap becomes less desirable the low lift of 604 cams at about 5.9 to 6.5mm lift from memory is low. I would recommend the standard cams for Volvo B28 made by Crow Cams in Melbourne which is a little more aggressive than standard as it happens, this is what I used on my turbo 505 with a B28 block and heads and will continue to use with the twin turbo evenfire motor.


    Great minds think alike our GRA carbs atop the even fire manifold will look the same.
    OddfireV6
    504 V6 24V, 203

  22. #22
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Default PRV extractors and other things.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Bell
    What's wrong with using two 3-cyl distributors (ex Daihatsu, for instance)?
    Once again Wildebeest throws his battered hat into the ring.
    Ray,
    Two 3 cylinder distributors = One 6 cylinder evenfire disributor?

  23. #23
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Bell
    Demannu
    Sure, I agree, but I thought you had posted that you'd fitted a second distributor... did I read that incorrectly about driving one off the front of the camshaft?
    Sorry, the idea of that is, and what Oddfire is doing, is that you use one in the original spot with only the base of it (the trigger part), with no rotor buttor or distributor cap, and then the rotor button and "distributor" on the front of the passenger side timing chain cover. This provides him with the trigger signal that is normally derived from the crank angle sensor and ignition computer in the oddfire motors, without complex distributor setups on the front of the head.

    Quote Originally Posted by OddFireV6
    Demannu
    In respect of B280 evenfire inlet porting it is possible to completely waste the bulge around the guide
    (I think this is what you mean by the spring base) and you end up with almost a constant circular hole from the manifold face to the valve head, a good arrangement for a port with as you say only a gentle bend.
    Brilliant! That will make for the ideal arrangement. Glad to hear that, do you know how much metal that leaves to support the valve spring?

    Quote Originally Posted by OddFireV6
    Demannu
    You would not be able to use the HT distributor on the front left head, these only ever came in evenfire format and so would not work with an oddfire crank.
    Duh! Sometimes I miss the most obvious things. See, I knew there was a reason I was doing it the way that I am

    Quote Originally Posted by OddFireV6
    Demannu
    If you bent valves with a factory oddfire cam and the heads or block had not been machined it must be that the cam timing was not correct, its generally not necessary to relieve pistons until you exceed 9.5mm lift and about 65degrees overlap, this assumes oddfire heads. Did the valve bending occur with the evenfire head on oddfire block arrangement? I have not personally tried this and so cannot comment. I would personally never assemble one of these engines without two dial indicators and a degree wheel.
    Evenfire heads on Oddfire block with Evenfire camshafts. Dont bother trying, it just doesn't work.

    Quote Originally Posted by OddFireV6
    Demannu
    Standard 604 cams are not optimal, while with forced induction overlap becomes less desirable the low lift of 604 cams at about 5.9 to 6.5mm lift from memory is low. I would recommend the standard cams for Volvo B28 made by Crow Cams in Melbourne which is a little more aggressive than standard as it happens, this is what I used on my turbo 505 with a B28 block and heads and will continue to use with the twin turbo evenfire motor.
    Right now there is $18.21 in my bank account. The 604 camshafts will be fine for now. I think I have a set of B28 camshafts around somewhere, I'll measure them up and see if they still have anywhere near standard lobe heights on them (bloody Volvos). I know the 604 ones are still good, the Ovlov ones at the moment are an unknown.

    Quote Originally Posted by OddFireV6
    Demannu
    Great minds think alike our GRA carbs atop the even fire manifold will look the same.
    There's a photo op I'm looking forward to
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  24. #24
    Tadpole
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    Located at this link are performance exhaust manifolds for a PRV :

    www.simon-auto.de/pdf/alpine_kap24.pdf

  25. #25
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    New question - how do you get the bl**dy valve guides and/or seals out of these things? Do they even HAVE seals?
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

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