BX 16 valve cylinder head questions
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! blahblah's Avatar
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    Default BX 16 valve cylinder head questions

    The head gasket on my 16 valve has died ( overheating and oily odour from the coolant expansion tank - it was confirmed by a test for oil in the coolant).

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    Are there any nasties to watch out for with this job?

    Any comments on aftermarket vs. genuine cylinder head bolts?

    What sort of cylinder head refurbishment should be done while it is off? (the car has coolant in it)

    Why does the overflow pipe from the coolant expansion tank point directly at the battery???

    The compression test was good (180psi or so across the board) so I think the rest of the engine is ok (It's done 168k)

    I've already discovered the strange coolant hoses with tee pieces moulded into them and that coolant distribution block on the back of the engine block. Oh, and that servicing a car involves only changing the coolant hoses that are easy to get to and are in full view in the engine bay... The hidden hoses all appear to be knackered.

    I think that some of the hoses and existing coolant steel pipes can be replaced with suitably formed stainless steel tubing (copper would be easier to work with...) to minimise failure of the hoses again.

    Cheers,

    Chris

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Dear Blahblah,
    if it was mine, I would recondition the head while it's off. WA water is very bad so don't be surprised if you find some nasty corrosion, either on the head, or in the block under the liners. After all, if all was in order you wouldn't have a problem. You will need a VRS kit, new head bolts (aftermarket are fine) and you should replace all the hoses (both water and oil) while you can. Don't use copper pipes.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  3. #3
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    i have a VRS set here for a series one Mi-16 which i would say would be the same as the BX16

    i don't have any head bolts though

    let me know if you are interested
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  4. #4
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    Very important that you don't use copper or brass pipes...

    Have a look at the galvanic scale and you'll quickly see why.

  5. #5
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Bell
    Very important that you don't use copper or brass pipes...

    Have a look at the galvanic scale and you'll quickly see why.

    just have a look at a volvo block
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! Jack Z's Avatar
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    Chris,

    Peter T's spot on... you'll probably find corosion behind the liner of cylinder number 2.... well at least that's where I found it in mine and it had only done a documented 120k.... but guess what it was an Adelaide car... sh!t water.... and infrequent use over time the perfect breeding ground for corosion...

    So once you pull the head off, replace the gaskets and rebuild the head and then put it all back together again... (like I did) you will find a weak point or worse still crack in the block and pull it all apart again! OR you can bite the bullet and strip it all once and for all, rebuild the head have the block crack tested and do it right!

    Good luck with it all....
    BX TZI Hatch
    BX TRI Hatch
    GS C-Matic

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