Rubber Orings for DCOE Soft Mount
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Reno17's Avatar
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    Default Rubber Orings for DCOE Soft Mount

    Just got a drama with the DCOE Soft mounts on the R17

    I've got 2 Genuine Alpine DCOE manifolds and they have a 45mm x 5mm recess where the Webers bolt onto the manifold, obviously they come with a 45mm x 5mm Rubber O ring Flange from the factory. Now I'm having trouble finding some. Meca Parts have suggested something but I'm not so sure if there right, not speaking good English doesnít help either.

    I have had no luck with either LYNX or REDLINE Softmout kits available.
    The Redline one kinda works.
    Does anyone know of a place that makes Rubber O rings.
    Clark rubber doesnít have anything.
    I'm almost about to attempt to make some.

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    Anyway heres a pic of what I mean.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Rubber Orings for DCOE Soft Mount-manifold-1.jpg  
    1967 1135 R8 Gordini
    2012 BMW One Series M Coupe

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    Try Lewis hoses and seals (LHS) at Underwood. Ludowici is a Brisbane manufacturing company that makes seals and O rings. They may even have something that is a standard line.

    At worst, a piece of the correct material can be supa glued together to produce the correct size, or take the manifolds off and I will arrange to mill off the recess, or mill it shallower, and then you can use the standard Redline product. The choice is yours.
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  3. #3
    Tadpole
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    these guys should have what you want.

    They deal with webers etc

    Akses Group
    105 Norman Street
    East Brisbane QLD 4169


    Phone 07 38915688
    Last edited by boxhead; 16th December 2004 at 11:03 AM.

  4. #4
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    if all else fails then head down to your local hydraulic place and sort through the 'O' rings they have there

    no doubt they may have something suitable and they come in a great variety of sizes and thinknesses
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  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! Reno17's Avatar
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    Cheers guys

    I'll be able to find an answer with thoes suggestions.

    Was having a look on the R8G and it looks like it's got the same soft mount setup.
    1967 1135 R8 Gordini
    2012 BMW One Series M Coupe

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Default Rubber O rings for DCOE....

    Something,{the voices] tells me that the DCOE rings are a combination O ring with a bonded plastic flat ring on the outer and inner diameter.
    Because the DCOE's are flexibly mounted these plastic rings prevent the O ring being sucked into the manifold should the mounting bolts loosen or have been incorrectly tightened.
    The other voice tells me that the ingested plain O ring could find its way back into the throttle butterfly, making for some excitement or a bloody fast lap!

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    On these Alpine manifolds the groove is quite deep,(about 4mm) whereas normal DCOE manifolds have flat faces. As I said Ash, I could mill the faces down so that the groove is only say 2mm deep, allowing the Redline softmounts to work OK.

    I blocked off the holes in the head so you can pull off those manifolds without losing water or having the gaskets stick and I greased the gaskets so they come off as it is always a hassle to port out new ones to match the larger ports.
    '56 Renault 750 (16TS Power)
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  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! Reno17's Avatar
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    I'm goin down to Lewis Hoses and Seals tomorrow Morn,I rang them up yesterday and it sounds like he may have some O Rings which will work.
    I'll give them a go, If they don't work I'll give you a yell Alan, and thanks.
    1967 1135 R8 Gordini
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  9. #9
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Default Weber O Rings

    Quote Originally Posted by Wildebeest
    Something,{the voices] tells me that the DCOE rings are a combination O ring with a bonded plastic flat ring on the outer and inner diameter.
    Because the DCOE's are flexibly mounted these plastic rings prevent the O ring being sucked into the manifold should the mounting bolts loosen or have been incorrectly tightened.
    The other voice tells me that the ingested plain O ring could find its way back into the throttle butterfly, making for some excitement or a bloody fast lap!
    I'm with you -I had twin Webers on 403 engine many years ago and from memory there was pretty fancy o ring arrangement , I recall there was hard pvc arrangement which was shaped to the weber flanges. On each side of it was O ring groove . The net result was that that each choke required two O rings one either side of the plastic doover which the whole arrangement was then retained by the fixing bolts.

    You used nyloc nuts on the flange bolts and had to tension them carefully to the two carbs in line with other and manifold.

    I hope I not telling you what you already know !

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! Reno17's Avatar
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    Problem fixed.

    I was able to get some Rubber O rings which you'd swear were made for the manifold.
    Thanks for suggesting them Alan.

    ...now the next thing to look at is the accelerator cable, I need to find one that is threaded on both ends.
    Iíve been using the existing Weber setup for a few months now, but itís just starting to annoy me, small things like the linkages setup, the Soft mount prob, and now the Cable.
    Itís just fidgety stuff - sometimes donít think itís worth it.
    1967 1135 R8 Gordini
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  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! Reno17's Avatar
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    Default Shitty annoying idle prob

    Ok I've got that sorted,

    Just one other thing someone might be able to help me with.

    When I start the car it will idle fine, at about 900-1000rpm then when I take it for a drive and stop at a set of lights or T junction it almost wants to stall, I've raised the Idle by turning the idle screw, and then when I stop again its back to stalling.

    Would it be my Idle Mixture screws ??
    1967 1135 R8 Gordini
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  12. #12
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    Or maybe float levels?

  13. #13
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    Originally posted by robmac
    .....You used nyloc nuts on the flange bolts and had to tension them carefully to the two carbs in line with other and manifold.....
    Don't forget there's also a multiple-wind spring washer between the nut and the carby flange to allow it to flex.

    All of this to cut out the vibes from 4-cyl engines!

  14. #14
    Simon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reno17

    When I start the car it will idle fine, at about 900-1000rpm then when I take it for a drive and stop at a set of lights or T junction it almost wants to stall, I've raised the Idle by turning the idle screw, and then when I stop again its back to stalling.
    Are the carbies in balance with each other? If the carbies have been off the car, and if the previous air leak has been repaired (the need for the new mounts?) the carby balance may have to be set up again.

  15. #15
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    I've had this problem on the R12 and one of the contributors was a perforated diaphragm in the vacuum advance capsule.


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  16. #16
    1000+ Posts HONG KONG PUGGY's Avatar
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    Hey Adrian,
    Congratulations on your progress so far. (wish my progress on the Pug carbie was as good).
    Nobody has mentioned to check all the hoses first. Especially the ends, because this is where I have found hoses perish first, then they get brittle and can leak. Cut off the brittle bit, or replace the hose if this isn't possible. Then go searching for a more complex problem.
    Chris

  17. #17
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    About the only hoses with a DCOE fitment would be the vacuum advance and power brake lines...

  18. #18
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuey
    I've had this problem on the R12 and one of the contributors was a perforated diaphragm in the vacuum advance capsule.

    does the engine have surges when you put your foot down a bit going up hills

    i had the same thing in the 604 and this was the cause

    changed the capsule and reset the advance and is fine

    i'd be checking the carb balance and the idle mixture

    when i had twins on a 504 i found it easier to cut fuel to one carb while doing the other one and you can't go past a piece of garden hose to get the balance close

    of course to get the balance perfect you need the right tool but i never used it on the 504 and it was pretty good
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

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