removing rear drums
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! AxGT's Avatar
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    Default removing rear drums

    Hi Guys,
    I've got a leaking rear wheel cylinder in one of my drums, so im trying to remove the drum so that i can replace it.

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    Now, the problem is that i can undo the main bolt, and i've backed off the handbrake adjuster, and the drum is loose ish, but it wont come off. It seems to be getting caught on the shoes.

    The haynes manual says to push in the handbrake lever that is inside the drum, but it won't budge.

    Would i be right just to get a big puller, and put some brute force onto it, or does anyone know of a better approach.

    Cheers
    Ken

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts edgedweller's Avatar
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    Default drums (no sound)

    Have you a lump hammer? Or other similar, three good hits 1/3 around outside of drum, not too hard, just to loosen and knock out some dust, and one good wack at centre of drum, should be axle centre. Have you a large screw driver, if you can see rear lip of drum gentley lever out from backing plate, not too far 3-5 mm ok `now do this 180 degrees opposite, then 90 degrees, then 180 degress, each time will slowly move drum off brake linings, if not repeat step one until step two works.

    Presuming that handbrake is off and backed off and that car front wheels are chocked, car is in gear or park, axle you are working on is secure with axle stand, repetition of this proceedure will get drum away.

    It is usually only dust and friction holding the drum in place.

    Cheers ed ge

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Gamma's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AxGT
    Hi Guys,
    I've got a leaking rear wheel cylinder in one of my drums, so im trying to remove the drum so that i can replace it.

    Now, the problem is that i can undo the main bolt, and i've backed off the handbrake adjuster, and the drum is loose ish, but it wont come off. It seems to be getting caught on the shoes.

    The haynes manual says to push in the handbrake lever that is inside the drum, but it won't budge.

    Would i be right just to get a big puller, and put some brute force onto it, or does anyone know of a better approach.

    Cheers
    Ken

    If there are deep enough grooves in the drum, there will not be enough clearance for the shoes to pass unless, you can get the adjuster to slacken further.

    As mentioned dust can be the killer, also the drum will have to be removed square to the line of the axle. A slight cocking of the drum will cause it to bind.
    Mindless brute force, though appealing, will only result in extra expence and loss of skin.

    So,
    -back off the adjuster as far as it will go.
    -tap the drum all the way around with a rawhide hammer or "lump O hardwood".
    -use an extra pair of hands or a screw driver and small pinch bar and knee, to gently "lever and turn" the drum while tapping the drum. (I dont know if that sounds right). Trying to get it off straight.
    -if it jamms, Back Off a little and tap and rotate the drum and continue to apply pressure, TAP and TURN,TAP and TURN,TAP and TURN.


    If this fails, go to the wreckers and get an entire axle assembly from where it bolts onto the car including the drum, (with good shoes) and apply.


    Dont use more force...... use a bigger hammer.
    /// 1986 SII 505 GTI
    2003 T5 307 HDI
    2013 LandRover90
    Sacred cows make the best hamburger mince.
    If you run, you only die tired

  4. #4
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Default

    Well hard to believe as it may be, back in the dark ages, I used to own and/or work on yank tanks and classics such as Ford Prefects (affectionately known as Ford Defects) and the defects had a great idea; axles with the star wheel attached to the end of it which meant splitting the diff to get the axle out and if I remember correctly I can't remember if it was them or some other gem that had a spline at the hub end whilst others managed a taper and woodruf key....woo hooo, what fun they were when they got a bit rusty!! Heat, hammers, pullers all failed to shift a bad one, but one system that always worked..(Don''t try this at home kids) was to loosen the nut on the end of the axle, jack the car up slightly (just off the ground) on all wheels but the one giving the trouble which then puts the entire weight of the car on that wheel, get a piece of hardwood about 100mm square and about 600mm long, get someone to hold it firmly aagainst the offendeing axle & nut and give it a full on whack with a sledge or lump hammer. If it takes more than 3 hits you can almost say it's immoveable. Just be 100% sure before you start that the drum isn't hooked on a lip on the edge of the drum though, but if cracking a corrosion created seal, that will definitely work; truck mechanics use it all the time.

    Alan S
    Last edited by Alan S; 11th December 2004 at 09:12 AM.
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  5. #5
    Member S Chung's Avatar
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    Default Rear Drum

    Ken,
    I don't know if your car is similar to the 205 which uses the wheels bolts to centre the wheel as oposed to studs attached to the hub. But, had a similar issue and just screwed two of the wheels bolts into the drum (at a diagonal of course) and pulled - drum came straight off.
    Cheers,
    Sean

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Icon14 Removing rear drums.

    One has to wonder who the genius was that designed this type of brake setup ie without any external primary adjustment.
    The majority of later European cars seem to have gone down this path.

    Most contributors to this thread will have accepted that it is the wear lip inside the drum that is preventing removal. the lack of any accessible adjustment not helping.
    I recall having this problem with, I think, a Volvo 360. I found the only way, for me anyway was to destroy the shoe locating pins, the heads are visible from the backing plate. I may have also removed the small screws that secure the wheel cylinder. This allowed the shoes to "float" free and the drums became a bit easier to remove.
    If your dealer can't supply the replacement locating pins try a brake parts shop.

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