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Thread: 504 shockys

  1. #1
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    Default 504 shockys

    ohhh noooo, loud clunk noise developing from rear in 504.
    also squishy shocks in the front.

    does anyone recomend a certain brand of shock absorber for 504's?

    im looking for a cheaper but not crap brand, sorta like the middle brand so to speak, doesnt cost a million dollars but still wont fall apart as soon as i drive out the driveway...........i was quoted over the counter for a set of monroe shocks, 1200 bucks all up....

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    also does anyone recomend a place to get them?????? itll be DIY so as to keep the dollars down....

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Shobbz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1971504sedan
    ohhh noooo, loud clunk noise developing from rear in 504.
    also squishy shocks in the front.

    does anyone recomend a certain brand of shock absorber for 504's?

    im looking for a cheaper but not crap brand, sorta like the middle brand so to speak, doesnt cost a million dollars but still wont fall apart as soon as i drive out the driveway...........i was quoted over the counter for a set of monroe shocks, 1200 bucks all up....

    also does anyone recomend a place to get them?????? itll be DIY so as to keep the dollars down....
    Sachs or LIP,

    Eai www.eai.net.au in melbourne has them for the 504.

    100-120 a side for the sachs and 60-80 a side for the lips.

    shobbz
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shobbz
    Sachs or LIP,

    Eai www.eai.net.au in melbourne has them for the 504.

    100-120 a side for the sachs and 60-80 a side for the lips.

    shobbz
    The LIPS have been proven to be better as well as cheaper. The Sachs have been known to stop working for no particular reason.
    Your noise is probably the rear cross member mounting blocks.
    Graham

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    Quote Originally Posted by GRAHAM WALLIS
    The LIPS have been proven to be better as well as cheaper. The Sachs have been known to stop working for no particular reason.
    Your noise is probably the rear cross member mounting blocks.
    Graham
    I thought about that as well, Search for a thread about rear corssmembers and the 504.

    I am sure that many will remember the saga that i went through with the crossmember joints.

    shobbz
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    hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm i seeeeee.................well, thats more then likely the problem now that i come to think of it and read about it..............the shocks are still stuffed, so ill get new ones anyway, and while im waving a spanner around ill have a look at those mounting blocks..........

    thanks for bringing that up fellas!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1971504sedan
    hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm i seeeeee.................well, thats more then likely the problem now that i come to think of it and read about it..............the shocks are still stuffed, so ill get new ones anyway, and while im waving a spanner around ill have a look at those mounting blocks..........

    thanks for bringing that up fellas!

    Remove the back seat and undo the three nuts holding the cross member mounts to the body. Let the cross member down slowly with the aid of a jack and then dissasemble the mountings to have a look at the rubber blocks inside.
    Do one side at a time, it is nearly impossible to line things up if you undo both sides at once!!
    Graham

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    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    I can get (and pass on...) a substantial discount on Monroes...

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    hmmmm that sounds good about a discount ray, coz monroes are suposed to be the be all and end all of shocks aye.........ill keep that in mind..............

    now also, upon further close inspection under the 504, ive found that the torque tube is just, ever so slightly, touching the front edge of the rear crossmember. and the crossmember, to my untrained eyes, seems to be sitting in a kicked back possition in the mounts, as in, the front edge or leading edge of the member is up in the air in the mounts, and the trailing edge is bolted down the bottom of the steel mounts..........however i dont know what possition its suposed to sit in.......

    should it be level?????? (im guesing its supposed to be ) any thoughts on that anyone????

    i take it just from looking at it, that to change the rubbers i have to let the crossmember and mounts down and then the steel mounts unbolt from the side of the crossmember to get to the rubbers?????
    ________________________________________
    1971 504 (restoration temp. at a hault)
    1977 504 (rolling restoration)
    1985 505 wagon (bus/work ute/shopping trolly)

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1971504sedan
    hmmmm that sounds good about a discount ray, coz monroes are suposed to be the be all and end all of shocks aye.........ill keep that in mind..............

    now also, upon further close inspection under the 504, ive found that the torque tube is just, ever so slightly, touching the front edge of the rear crossmember. and the crossmember, to my untrained eyes, seems to be sitting in a kicked back possition in the mounts, as in, the front edge or leading edge of the member is up in the air in the mounts, and the trailing edge is bolted down the bottom of the steel mounts..........however i dont know what possition its suposed to sit in.......

    should it be level?????? (im guesing its supposed to be ) any thoughts on that anyone????

    i take it just from looking at it, that to change the rubbers i have to let the crossmember and mounts down and then the steel mounts unbolt from the side of the crossmember to get to the rubbers?????

    Yes, As I described above. Don't forget, one side at a time!!
    The angle you describe does make it sound like the mounts are sheared.
    Graham

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    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    I won't ever say that Monroes are the 'be all...' of shocks... it's a shame we can't get Konis any more (though we could if thirty or so car owners decided to order them all at once!).

    Monroes are generally a fair quality reliable shock. I haven't had any experience with the LIPs and would like to know more about them. Where are they made, for instance?

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    My LIP rear shocks arrived finally yesterday, only a week late, freight company taking its time.

    Do i have to pump the shocks in readiness for insertion? Anythin special i have to consider as they are new shocks?

    Or do i just put them straight in?

    My springs are pretty much goooonnnneeee, will they damage the shocks?


    thanks

    shobbz
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    1975 504 GL

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    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    If they're gas-filled hydraulic dampers they don't need to be primed...

    If they're straight hydraulic, open them vertically, then fully close them in a totally inverted state (ie with the eye to the top, the stem on the ground and straight up and down) and don't allow them to open again until you have them up the right way. Do it a couple of times to be sure...

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    1000+ Posts Shobbz's Avatar
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    There does not seem to be enough thread at the top of the shock to secure them???

    Could they be the wrong shocks?

    The rubber stoppers at the top seem to be the right way around???

    I guess i could grind a bit off the rubber stoppers, but it seewms a little strange that i would have to do this?

    thanks

    shobbz
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    There should be one rubber below and one above the panel they fit through... are you sure the rubbers off the old ones aren't still stuck in there?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shobbz
    There does not seem to be enough thread at the top of the shock to secure them???

    Could they be the wrong shocks?

    The rubber stoppers at the top seem to be the right way around???

    I guess i could grind a bit off the rubber stoppers, but it seewms a little strange that i would have to do this?

    thanks

    shobbz
    I've had this problem before, you wonder how much time they spend on designing the shockers for the various applications!
    Use thinner rubber(s), the old ones perhaps.
    Graham

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    I got them in eventually, many bad words were exchanged between car and owner.

    I will give lip shocks a plug though, seems to drive quite well.

    I got a few mates to hop in the boot to weigh it down then was able to compress the rubbers a bit and finally got them in.

    In the process of having the shocks out of the car, i got a great look at how stuffed the springs are, they are gone. There is almost no tension in the springs.

    Another moderately successful pug day. Next is to put door pannels and locking mechanisms back. One day maybe even put the blower back in

    thanks

    shobbz
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    Ray, If you decide at any time to go ahead with the Koni order, I'm a definite purchaser for front and rear for early 504 sedan and front and rear for 1970 404 sedan. Hank.

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    Ray,

    If you did ever get enough to go ahead I would be interested in maybe 3 sets of fronts for 505 and a couple of sets of wagon rears


    Cheers

    Ben
    1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16
    1990 Peugeot 505 GTD Turbo Wagon
    2000 Peugeot 306 XSI
    1973 Peugeot 504 GL





  19. #19
    1000+ Posts Shobbz's Avatar
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    Just a quick question,

    well a few actually,

    1. How tight do u do up the bolts on top of the shockies. The original peugeot ones had a metal tube through the rubbers that served as a guide, the LIP shocks have none?

    2. What is stopping the shocks top mount moving around? Where the shock is secured at the top in the boot through the hole in the rear crossmember, the actual hole is quite a bit bigger that the shock shaft??? What is stopping the shock shaft from moving around?

    Or is this to take into account the changing angle as the rear wheel camber changes over different surfaces?

    thanks

    shobbz
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    1. Tight enough so the rubbers start to bulge but not so tight that they look like they're being squeezed to death...

    2. Friction...

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