505 extractors
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Thread: 505 extractors

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Tiop's Avatar
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    Icon6 505 extractors

    has any one here every had extractors put on their 505 ?

    Iam thinking of doing this to my 505 GTi s2 after i get it resprayed ?
    Currently has a 2inch straight through exhaust (noisy)

    If any one has done it is it worth it ?

    Ive had one quote for a set of pacemakers custom made for $600
    does any one else think thats expensive ?

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Tiop's Avatar
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    any one think it will be worth while if i can get it for a decent price ?

    any one think it will boost performance over standard ?

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! petermc505's Avatar
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    Where did you get the quote for the custom made extractors?
    would it be the same for a S1 GTi?
    $600 sounds a little steep- but what material are they made out of?
    Please let me know when(if) you do this if you notice any
    improvement in performance

    also, how much is it costing you to re-spray


    84 505 GTi - Sold to a friend... written off 3 months later

  4. #4
    Guru davemcbean's Avatar
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    This exact topic is currently being discussed under the topic "Fuego X file". Check it out.

    For those who don't know, the Renault Fuego, 20, 25 and 21 (and many 18s overseas) use the same type of engine as the 505 STI and GTI.

    Dave
    NZ Fleet
    1976 504 Ti
    1984 205 GT twin carb
    1991 205 SI 1.6GTI motor
    1994 106 Xsi
    1996 Mondeo V6
    Aus Fleet
    1955 203C
    1997 Civic Cxi (great allrounder- revy, flexible, nimble, comfortable , economical, simple and durable )

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! Tiop's Avatar
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    but this is my thread

    lol will do.

    um i only got one quote for respray and that is from the pin strip up it was $1300, ganna try a couple others first but they said bout $3500 for whole car.

    if i get extractor what will happen to those little copper heater pipe things that go to standard manifold what are they ?

  6. #6
    Gus
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    Fellow Frogger! Gus's Avatar
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    The 'copper heater pipe' things is Exhaust Gas Recirculation, part of the anti-pollution. The idea is that, at idle, the engine re-chews some of it's own exhaust to reduce emissions.

    A sketchy proposition then, and a sketchier one 20 years later... my local Pug mechanic told me that some years of cars had them, but some didn't. Getting rid of it will help performance if it's broken (there's a vacuum valve which lets the gas in when it's wanted), and probably not even increase emissions by much if it's still working.

    Good luck w/ the extractors. Let us know how you go.

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! 505 to the max's Avatar
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    Tadpole,
    I have a 505GR with GTi motor transplanted in (GR is about 120kg lighter). The mods are as follows: 10.2:1CR, bigger cam, ported, EMS computer (fuel & ignition), f/wheel lightened by about 15%, 3 angle valve grind, 4-2-1 extractors and larger exhaust (mandrel bent), K%N pod and a few cooling related alterations. To date it's best dyno readout is 115rwhp at 5700rpm. This translates to approx. 150 at the flywheel. Not a huge gain (around 30hp over standard), the ZDJL motor is long-stroke (just), so it's made for torque not huge revs so don't expect miracles from minor breathing improvements. To get huge power you would have to bore it out to reduce friction losses created by piston/cylinder contact. I would not recommend this practice as the cylinder liners will suffer reduced reliability due to less metal available to cope with the stress of combustion. The torque is quite strong however, and being a rwd pug, it's made for getting sideways.
    I'm in Newcastle if you want to see it in action.

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! crosspug's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 505 to the max
    Tadpole,
    I have a 505GR with GTi motor transplanted in (GR is about 120kg lighter). The mods are as follows: 10.2:1CR, bigger cam, ported, EMS computer (fuel & ignition), f/wheel lightened by about 15%, 3 angle valve grind, 4-2-1 extractors and larger exhaust (mandrel bent), K%N pod and a few cooling related alterations. To date it's best dyno readout is 115rwhp at 5700rpm. This translates to approx. 150 at the flywheel. Not a huge gain (around 30hp over standard), the ZDJL motor is long-stroke (just), so it's made for torque not huge revs so don't expect miracles from minor breathing improvements. To get huge power you would have to bore it out to reduce friction losses created by piston/cylinder contact. I would not recommend this practice as the cylinder liners will suffer reduced reliability due to less metal available to cope with the stress of combustion. The torque is quite strong however, and being a rwd pug, it's made for getting sideways.
    I'm in Newcastle if you want to see it in action.

    I think "want to see it in action" is an understatement, I've GOTTA see this

    Who, what, when and where??

    Which dyno did you get this on?? (just wondering if it was a newcastle one because I'm keen to get some "before" readings in the next couple of months and I want to know if anyone here would even know what a 505 is?)

    Jono

    BTW are you still running the standard GR suspension?? etc??
    1989 BX16Valve

    "Resting" 1983 505 STi

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! 505 to the max's Avatar
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    The ECU was tuned by John Collins, owner of John Collins Dyno Tune in Broadmeadow. If you want someone to milk maximum power out of a car for you, John's the man. Darren Fullerton of Bellevue motors does any major mechanical work I need...a top bloke. Dyno figures are not 100% consistent due to fuel quality variations, ambient temps etc, so factor in a few %tolerance.

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! 505 to the max's Avatar
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    Sorry I forgot about the second part of your post. Yes, unfortunately I am still running GR suspension, very 'rolly' in fast corners. It does however make it quite easy to get sideways. Body roll is not so much a problem as I recently fitted a Momo bucket seat. Not good for comfort (30mins at the wheel and I get a sore back!) but you wont come out of it in a hurry, even when you want to get out of it.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 505 to the max
    Tadpole,
    I have a 505GR with GTi motor transplanted in (GR is about 120kg lighter). The mods are as follows: 10.2:1CR, bigger cam, ported, EMS computer (fuel & ignition), f/wheel lightened by about 15%, 3 angle valve grind, 4-2-1 extractors and larger exhaust (mandrel bent), K%N pod and a few cooling related alterations. To date it's best dyno readout is 115rwhp at 5700rpm. This translates to approx. 150 at the flywheel. Not a huge gain (around 30hp over standard), the ZDJL motor is long-stroke (just), so it's made for torque not huge revs so don't expect miracles from minor breathing improvements. To get huge power you would have to bore it out to reduce friction losses created by piston/cylinder contact. I would not recommend this practice as the cylinder liners will suffer reduced reliability due to less metal available to cope with the stress of combustion. The torque is quite strong however, and being a rwd pug, it's made for getting sideways.
    I'm in Newcastle if you want to see it in action.

    Just what I am about to do!
    I am starting with a standard ZDJL and megasquirt injection but will go further if results are encouraging. I do have an STI rear suspension (roll bar, springs and shockers) highly recommended and have sourced a series 2 front end.
    What revs does the car pull from and what will it rev to?
    Who did the cam for you?
    The GR is missing the vibration dampers of the STI/GTI, is it noisy?
    How is the fuel economy?
    Did you use a GTI gearbox, I will probably shorten the input shaft of my pushrod BA7/5.

    Graham Wallis

  12. #12
    Guru davemcbean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 505 to the max
    Tadpole,
    I have a 505GR with GTi motor transplanted in (GR is about 120kg lighter). The mods are as follows: 10.2:1CR, bigger cam, ported, EMS computer (fuel & ignition), f/wheel lightened by about 15%, 3 angle valve grind, 4-2-1 extractors and larger exhaust (mandrel bent), K%N pod and a few cooling related alterations. To date it's best dyno readout is 115rwhp at 5700rpm. This translates to approx. 150 at the flywheel. Not a huge gain (around 30hp over standard), the ZDJL motor is long-stroke (just), so it's made for torque not huge revs so don't expect miracles from minor breathing improvements. To get huge power you would have to bore it out to reduce friction losses created by piston/cylinder contact. I would not recommend this practice as the cylinder liners will suffer reduced reliability due to less metal available to cope with the stress of combustion. The torque is quite strong however, and being a rwd pug, it's made for getting sideways.
    I'm in Newcastle if you want to see it in action.
    Cool! Would you let me post details of your motor and pictures on my 504/505 mods website:

    http://www.geocities.com/davemcbean/...l?997061496590

    There aren't alot of people in Australia who have modified the ZDJL (yet!) so my website is desperately short on examples of this. Your car would be a great addition to the website (as would Graham's rally car).

    Dave
    NZ Fleet
    1976 504 Ti
    1984 205 GT twin carb
    1991 205 SI 1.6GTI motor
    1994 106 Xsi
    1996 Mondeo V6
    Aus Fleet
    1955 203C
    1997 Civic Cxi (great allrounder- revy, flexible, nimble, comfortable , economical, simple and durable )

  13. #13
    Guru davemcbean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 505 to the max
    I have a 505GR with GTi motor transplanted in (GR is about 120kg lighter). .
    Actually for a series 1 GR versus a series 1 GTI, the only big differences in weight for the GTI are as follows (approximately):

    -sunroof 15kg
    -power steering 10kg
    -extra insulation 10kg
    -extra fuel tank capacity 7kg
    -alloy EFI engine minus10kg

    The weight figures published in road tests and on rego papers are highly inaccurate (often because of difference in amounts of fuel in the fuel tank).

    Dave
    NZ Fleet
    1976 504 Ti
    1984 205 GT twin carb
    1991 205 SI 1.6GTI motor
    1994 106 Xsi
    1996 Mondeo V6
    Aus Fleet
    1955 203C
    1997 Civic Cxi (great allrounder- revy, flexible, nimble, comfortable , economical, simple and durable )

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts bowie's Avatar
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    pugs made for going sideways.. hihih they dont need much coaxing with the torqu they have to get it to dance a silly song..

    My eyes lights up with glee when i have to turn 90 degree's at a intersection in the wet.. 2nd gear with 2k revs and she'll gladly step out..

    Em keen to see this moified GTI donk tho..

    Works: 2003 YV Commodore (That is Cecil to you)
    Playing: R12, SuperPos, thinks It's a race car and Sunny the R12 Lego set.
    Previous: SuperGrumpy fuel spitting 504ti(ish), SuperComfortable 505 STI, SuperDoper carried my groceries Mi16, Choo Choo'd Volvo S40
    Wanted Will hoard 12/15/17 Junk.

    "More and more of less and less" - Marina Abramović

  15. #15
    Fellow Frogger! crosspug's Avatar
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    Em keen to see this moified GTI donk tho..
    Alright so when are the newy boys going to get together and have a looksy?? if you don't mind 5052dMAX.....

    Jono
    1989 BX16Valve

    "Resting" 1983 505 STi

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger! 505 to the max's Avatar
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    G'day all,
    sorry for the delayed response. Here are some answers for the technical questions: the cam I am running is from a Fuego clubsprint/ hillclimb car, unfortunately the lift and duration specs are unknown. It starts to pull noticably from about 2800rpm and levels off at about 5800. If it's any help I got it second hand from French Connection in Melbourne so they may know more about it. At the moment it's using a standard (Valeo)clutch with a BA7 5 speed from an STi. I can proudly say that it well and truly fried the old one which I got with the STi 'parts donor'. Due to the reliance on higher rpm I had 3mm valve shims fitted to prevent any chance of valve bounce. Due to a love of torque and pugs I have decided to fit a Garrett T28 in the near future. To spool up the turbo as quickly as possible I will be reverting to the standard GTi cam. If anyone wants the 'hotter' cam and heat wrapped 4-2-1 extractors (1 3/4 in. primaries and 2 in. collectors) then track me down through Pug Club NSW or E-mail me at [email protected] . Dave, as soon as I get my camera back I'll more than happily send photos of my car to you.

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