R8 w/10 motor - carb ?
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Thread: R8 w/10 motor - carb ?

  1. #1
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    Default R8 w/10 motor - carb ?

    My R8 has been sitting because my fuel tank is failing and spitting off chunks into my carb. Even with 2 inline fuel filters! I need to pull the tank and I was thinking about upgrading the carb, for a little more umph.

    How long should it take to pull motor/drop tranny, pull the tank, with a reasonable amount of mechanical skill? Also, can I just leave the motor attached to the tranny and just disconnect it all and raise the body up, to remove the tank? Yes, I am looking for a shortcut. Or, what should I expect to pay a garage to do this? Then, bring the fuel tank to a radiatior shop for descaling and sealing... any idea what that cost will be?

    What carb would you recommend and why?

    The pics are my motor and current carb (which is leaky anyway).

    Thanks!

    Carb 1.jpg

    Motor.jpg

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  2. #2
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    Your best play is to disconnect cables, brake lines gear selector shaft, remove the tank cover panel, take out the radiator panel and rear panel, disconnect relevant hoses, undo the four long bolts that secure the rear cross member to the chassis, undo the engine mounts, raise the body a little as best you can and wheel the whole lot out.

    Coupla hours, the first time a lot less the second.

    Good time to give it all a clean and to replace gearbox mounts.

    A bigger carby by itself probably probably wont give your more grunt. You'll need a bit of head work, a cam regrind, a good set of extractors. Probably cheaper to drop in a 1.4 motor or an R16 or R17 donk.
    Last edited by Exfrogger; 27th March 2019 at 12:03 PM.
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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    It takes me about an hour or so to remove an R8/10 either engine only, or engine and gearbox combined.
    If you just pull the engine, you won't be able to get the tank out as the base of it fouls on the bellhousing.

    Raising the body up off the engine and gearbox is the best way, but there are a couple of considerations.

    The back of the gearbox will need to be supported, and don't use the gear selector for that or you could damage the shaft. Fluid lines and brake lines will generally need to be disconnected so re-bleeding will be necessary. You will need to get up under the body underneath the petrol tank to get access to the three nuts holding it in so that will need to be done safely; and as Exfrogger said, possibly best done by wheeling the engine and gearbox away from under the car to give you access.
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    KB


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    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    I would remove the engine, drain the gearbox oil which is easy and then undo the bell housing bolts. Remove the tank and do to it whatever you want. In the mean time buy a sheet gasket material from Repco or SCA and cut (or tap with ball peen hammer) a new bell housing gasket. At the same time the $20 spigot shaft oil seal can be replaced as well. When you get the tank back, install it and fit the bell housing and engine.

    I think it will save a lot of hard work instead of lowering the box or raising the body.

    As per Exfrogger, no use you install a bigger carb but don't match the cam, head and exhaust to get rid of the extra fuel.

    Frans.
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    Young enough to do it anyway.

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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Our friend is in the US, guys.

    I would add to Frans' comments that I would first install the bell housing on its own to the g'box after replacing the spigot shaft seal. Coming at it with the whole engine might damage the new seal if not centred perfectly.
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    Very impressive time KB. A skill born of long practice, presumably. Mine has only been out three times in 46 years.....

    Looks like the US vehicles got a big Solex on the 8S manifold, whereas I've only ever seen Webers on that inlet system.
    JohnW

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    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    US? Oops. Well then we can courier it to Gordinowitz

    Frans.
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    It takes me about an hour or so to remove an R8/10 either engine only, or engine and gearbox combined.

    Want to stop over, if you're in the area...
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    1000+ Posts bowie's Avatar
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    Also my experience in swapping over the 32 Solex for a twin DGV 32/36 on my 810, goes against the requirement of head and cam work to take advantage of it. It got an extra 10km in top speed! for free!

    Gordinowitz, get a 32/36 DGV, and bag a jets, it will be fun.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordinowitz View Post
    Want to stop over, if you're in the area...
    I had the much the same thought....
    JohnW

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    Yes Bowie I had a somewhat similar experience but it depends how we defines grunt.

    From memory swapping to the DGV resulted in my engine reving more freely but I always thought I lost a little torque. I never had the balls to see what l got in top end performance. Or patience for that matter...

    But it was a long, long time ago, I think mine was one of the first models rolled off the Ark.
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  12. #12
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Geez. I can't make out the engine number, could you clean that a little and take another shot?

    It would be interesting to know firstly if you can use a 810 intake manifold. If that was the case, you can look around your area or come back here and I am sure some generous soul would find you a twin down draft manifold off their 12 or such you could use to go to a DGV (and skip all the Renault options, which are not better and might be a lot harder to find over there).

    The DGV will help immensely a high revving engine but as others have mentioned you might need some more cam to make significantly more power. You will get a bit more with the carby, but not that much.

    Bigger valves, bigger exhaust help as well, but on their own not by much either. Whichever way you turn, you will need bigger cam to take advantage of all these little incremental changes.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 28th March 2019 at 04:25 PM.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Exfrogger View Post
    Yes Bowie I had a somewhat similar experience but it depends how we defines grunt.

    From memory swapping to the DGV resulted in my engine reving more freely but I always thought I lost a little torque. I never had the balls to see what l got in top end performance. Or patience for that matter...

    But it was a long, long time ago, I think mine was one of the first models rolled off the Ark.

    What engine?

    More revs give you more power but only up to some point where your cam can't help anymore. Above that point, you're just wasting fuel. Torque on the other hand is helped by pushing the piston down at the right time (with maximum force and efficiency), which is not at top revs anyway.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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