Changing the solenoids in a AL4 (Peugeot 206cc 1.6L 16V) - Questions on re-assembly
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Thread: Changing the solenoids in a AL4 (Peugeot 206cc 1.6L 16V) - Questions on re-assembly

  1. #1
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    Default Changing the solenoids in a AL4 (Peugeot 206cc 1.6L 16V) - Questions on re-assembly

    Hi all

    I have quite a few questions about assembling back the valve body into the gearbox.

    The gearbox is an AL4
    The car is a 2006 Peugeot 206cc 1.6L

    I have replaced the solenoids and I am trying to put back the valve body. I can see in the manual it says to test the gear selection lever before screwing the screw that is holding it. Is that a mandatory process? I've seen a few videos and they don't mention anything about the procedure step.

    Another question is the access to the filler plug. At the moment, there is the lever (62) in front of it and there is absolutely no way to put a tool in there. What is the normal process of getting it out of the way?

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Changing the solenoids in a AL4 (Peugeot 206cc 1.6L 16V) - Questions on re-assembly-pages-59374717-al4-dpo-transmission-rebuild-manual-2.png   Changing the solenoids in a AL4 (Peugeot 206cc 1.6L 16V) - Questions on re-assembly-39442742_228167394522880_3918258085289787392_n.jpg  

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    Hi gptkm
    First comment; do not trust all the videos you find on the internet. I do not believe half of them actually do the job correctly because they do not point out the important things to look out for.
    To answer your questions as I understand them. You should have the gear lever in Park and leave it there to replace the valve body and the spring blade cam index spring. When you have the valve body in place with the screws in then put the spring blade in place with the extra washer thing and lightly tighten the screw.
    Then hold the blade against the cam and the blade is flat, not curved, so the pin moves to the bottom center of the cam groove and it is sitting evenly each side. While still holding the blade flat tighten the screw to the correct tension.

    You should also tighten all the valve body screws to the correct tension with a small tension wrench.
    When you have the spring blade correctly fitted and the front cover 'pan' back on then you can move the gear lever to expose the fill plug to remove it.

    Do not disconnect or adjust anything on the external of the box. If the gear change cam spring is not correct and you need to jiggle the gearlever to get it to start and work correctly then you will have to redo the fitting of the spring blade as described.
    Good luck Jaahn

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    OK, thanks jaahn. I will try it the next now, because more likely I have to open the valve body again as I am receiving errors with the new solenoids and I am not sure what is going on.

    AL4 error after replacing the solenoids

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    May I ask something more about testing the spring blade? It says "test it in all gear positions". How do I suppose to do that? The lever doesn't move unless the car has the battery fitted and the key in the ignition set to "ON" (or whatever the word is before the ignition). I tried to move the gear selection cable by hand but is too stiff to move.

    Regarding your previous message with the instructions of the blade spring, I've done it but what I can see the location of the roller that goes inside the notch it does not change at all, even with the blade being curved, the roller sits exactly in the middle of that notch. Maybe Peugeot included that step in a case that horizontal gear with the notch has been moved and is out of position. I really don't know...

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    Pretty sure I know what you have done as of the multiple times I removed my VB the 1st time I didn't sit the horizontal selector shaft ( the one at the top that slides left and right) into the selector lever notch.
    The only way to correct is to loosen all the VB screws lift top part away from gearbox slide selector piston (shaft) into correct position. Re tighten all VB screws in correct order and torque down to 7nm might be 9nm can't remember.
    When this is done then install the roller blade. I use a large flat washer for the middle screw. Then torque down the right hand screw to 9nm.
    Remove the middle screw and washer and just install screw and torque down.
    Now you can check all gear positions work before putting cover back on and refilling with correct fluide using the correct process.
    Please feedback any progress.
    You get used to it after a dozen times😠

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    Hi
    I believe what Dimi is saying is that you have not got the manual hydraulic valve end fitted into the selector fork when you put the valve body on. The manual valve is the round rod at the top with a groove in the end. That groove must be fitted into the selector fork when you put the valve body back in place. That must be redone or nothing works.

    Then fit the blade spring as I said and it should work. Do not worry about that instruction of trying the cam positions. If it is in park and the blade roller sits in the cam correctly it will be OK.

    The instructions in the manual do cover work which is more extensive than what you have done. Say if the box has been fully stripped and rebuilt. My recommendation is to just do the minimum work required and do not fiddle with unnecessary things which just will need resetting again. And do not look at too many crap utube videos which do it badly.
    Jaahn
    Last edited by jaahn; 20th August 2018 at 08:38 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dimistyle View Post
    Pretty sure I know what you have done as of the multiple times I removed my VB the 1st time I didn't sit the horizontal selector shaft ( the one at the top that slides left and right) into the selector lever notch.
    The only way to correct is to loosen all the VB screws lift top part away from gearbox slide selector piston (shaft) into correct position. Re tighten all VB screws in correct order and torque down to 7nm might be 9nm can't remember.
    When this is done then install the roller blade. I use a large flat washer for the middle screw. Then torque down the right hand screw to 9nm.
    Remove the middle screw and washer and just install screw and torque down.
    Now you can check all gear positions work before putting cover back on and refilling with correct fluide using the correct process.
    Please feedback any progress.
    You get used to it after a dozen times

    Sent from my SM-G900I using aussiefrogs mobile app

    Hi dimistyle. I actually worry more now than before. I have done exactly (literally) what you have just said. The first time I've missed the groove of the pin, then loosen the screws, pulled out the VB a bit and attached the pin in the correct position. Then I've straighten out the spring exactly the same way you mentioned by using a washer.

    The only thing that confuses me is the checking of the gears. How do I do that? The gear stick seems too stiff when the key in the ignition is not turned on (and of course when the battery is not in). Do I just need to pull it hard?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Changing the solenoids in a AL4 (Peugeot 206cc 1.6L 16V) - Questions on re-assembly-39589304_480955482372426_4462600741441241088_n.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by jaahn View Post
    Hi
    I believe what Dimi is saying is that you have not got the manual hydraulic valve end fitted into the selector fork when you put the valve body on. The manual valve is the round rod at the top with a groove in the end. That groove must be fitted into the selector fork when you put the valve body back in place. That must be redone or nothing works.

    Then fit the blade spring as I said and it should work. Do not worry about that instruction of trying the cam positions. If it is in park and the blade roller sits in the cam correctly it will be OK.

    The instructions in the manual do cover work which is more extensive than what you have done. Say if the box has been fully stripped and rebuilt. My recommendation is to just do the minimum work required and do not fiddle with unnecessary things which just will need resetting again. And do not look at too many crap utube videos which do it badly.
    Jaahn
    That's exactly what I thought so too Jaahn. That the process of adjusting the spring blade into the gear is in case the gearbox is being overhauled.

    I need to mention a couple of things but I would like to sort out the checking of the gear position first because I am trying to eliminate possible errors one by one.

    So the first thing is that someone mentioned in another forum that the Borg Warner valves have different frequency and that's why I am getting this error notification on the dashboard. I am not sure about this case because firstly, why the "R" gear does not give any error indication and the rest of the gear lever positions do, if that was the case then more likely the ECU wouldn't be able to recognize the new valves as soon as I turned the key on. And secondly, the valves that I took out, look like they are not the obsolete model but already Borg Warner valves were fitted in. There's also a BW on them (presumably that derives from the name).

    The second thing is that the car is currently sitting on ramps an angle of about 20 degrees. I've read somewhere that if the transmission fluid is overheated or the gearbox senses that the fluid is getting low, then the ECU goes into limp mode and the indication of Snow Mode and Sport Mode starts flashing.

    But let's eliminate one by one. First, if you can explain to me please, how do I check if the spring roller is engaging in all the gears without the need of turning the key on?

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    Hi
    I do not believe you are listening to what you are being told. I am sorry if we confused you by saying more than the minimum.

    1 You must check that the manual valve rod is sitting in the selector fork correctly by removing the pan and looking. If you have fixed this then OK. It will not work except for reverse if the rod is not connected properly.

    2 when you replace the valve body and then the spring blade, you must have the gear selector in Park position inside the car. Then hold the spring blade flat with the roller in the cam groove and tighten the screw. It should just move to the correct place if you allow it too. Then it will work OK after you put the oil in and start the car.

    3 You cannot fill the oil and check it correctly with the car sitting at an angle. IT MUST BE FLAT AND THE OIL LEVEL CHECKED WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING AFTER USING ALL THE GEAR POSITIONS.

    4 forget about the type of solenoids causing the problem. The car will run OK with either type old or new without any problems showing.

    5 you cannot move the gear lever without the battery in and the key on. Do not force it as it has a latch to hold it.

    stop looking for silly rubbish on the internet from people who do not know .
    Jaahn
    Last edited by jaahn; 21st August 2018 at 08:16 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gpktm View Post
    Hi dimistyle. I actually worry more now than before. I have done exactly (literally) what you have just said. The first time I've missed the groove of the pin, then loosen the screws, pulled out the VB a bit and attached the pin in the correct position. Then I've straighten out the spring exactly the same way you mentioned by using a washer.

    The only thing that confuses me is the checking of the gears. How do I do that? The gear stick seems too stiff when the key in the ignition is not turned on (and of course when the battery is not in). Do I just need to pull it hard?
    From the photo you have attached it does not look like the gear selector fork is sitting in the groove which means the lever is not in park?
    Also there is a cable length adjustment at the gearbox end red or yellow button releases the cable from the connection point.
    I would double/triple check you have locator lined up and in place. I'll see if my old post had photos.

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    Hi
    Do not do any external adjustments, to the cable mentioned. Unless you have already done something to them.
    If the car was driving OK except for the solenoids then you should just put the gear lever into park and leave it there until you have replaced the valve body and blade and refitted the pan.
    Then you may need to move the gear lever, depending on what model car it is, to be able to access the fill plug. To move the gear lever you will have to have the battery connected and the ignition switched on and foot on the brake perhaps.
    I repeat do not do any external adjustments to the cable or the switch cover etc. As you will then need to reset them to the correct position again to solve other problems.
    Jaahn

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    Quote Originally Posted by jaahn View Post
    Hi
    I do not believe you are listening to what you are being told. I am sorry if we confused you by saying more than the minimum.

    1 You must check that the manual valve rod is sitting in the selector fork correctly by removing the pan and looking. If you have fixed this then OK. It will not work except for reverse if the rod is not connected properly.

    2 when you replace the valve body and then the spring blade, you must have the gear selector in Park position inside the car. Then hold the spring blade flat with the roller in the cam groove and tighten the screw. It should just move to the correct place if you allow it too. Then it will work OK after you put the oil in and start the car.

    3 You cannot fill the oil and check it correctly with the car sitting at an angle. IT MUST BE FLAT AND THE OIL LEVEL CHECKED WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING AFTER USING ALL THE GEAR POSITIONS.

    4 forget about the type of solenoids causing the problem. The car will run OK with either type old or new without any problems showing.

    5 you cannot move the gear lever without the battery in and the key on. Do not force it as it has a latch to hold it.

    stop looking for silly rubbish on the internet from people who do not know.
    Jaahn
    Good day Jaahn

    I am trying to understand what exactly you explaining but I am getting a bit confused, or maybe you accidentally skipped my previous answer to dimistyle. What I was saying to him is that I've checked the roller spring and made sure that goes inside the groove of the pin (bolt). Can you check the image attached and let me know if that is what you are talking about?

    I have also uploaded a video. ---> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hK9xVNnZBM

    Please mind that the spring is left loose just for the purpose of the video, otherwise, I think will be to stiff to move the gear selector cable by hand if I tighten up the screw.

    The method that I've used to tightened up though, is the same as dimistyle. I've placed a washer with a hole just enough for the threaded part of the screw to go through but not the head. Then I've tightened up the screw until the spring arm goes flat touching the valve body. Then tightened the small bracket screw to 9Nm.
    Then removed the screw and the washer and put back just the screw.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Changing the solenoids in a AL4 (Peugeot 206cc 1.6L 16V) - Questions on re-assembly-39589304_480955482372426_4462600741441241088_n.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by gpktm View Post
    Good day Jaahn

    I am trying to understand what exactly you explaining but I am getting a bit confused, or maybe you accidentally skipped my previous answer to dimistyle. What I was saying to him is that I've checked the roller spring and made sure that goes inside the groove of the pin (bolt). Can you check the image attached and let me know if that is what you are talking about?

    I have also uploaded a video. ---> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hK9xVNnZBM

    Please mind that the spring is left loose just for the purpose of the video, otherwise, I think will be to stiff to move the gear selector cable by hand if I tighten up the screw.

    The method that I've used to tightened up though, is the same as dimistyle. I've placed a washer with a hole just enough for the threaded part of the screw to go through but not the head. Then I've tightened up the screw until the spring arm goes flat touching the valve body. Then tightened the small bracket screw to 9Nm.
    Then removed the screw and the washer and put back just the screw.
    Ok
    There is confusion about what the parts are called. You have a transmission in front of you, I have a computer and it is a while since I did this job.
    The round rod with the groove is the manual hydraulic valve. It has to be fitted so the round pin on the bottom of the selector cam fits in the groove to move it. (I did call the pin a fork earlier) So when you move the selector it moves the valve too. That is the vital fitting. Your video shows it is OK.

    Then the blade spring has to be fitted so the small roller at the end sits into the cam detent correctly. It does not fit into the round groove in the valve rod, but into the detents on the edge of the cam. That spring and roller is to make the selector cam stop at each selector position and the cam has detents (or grooves) on the edge for each selector position. The spring force holds the cam firmly in each position. The cam turns with the selector lever that the cable attaches to.

    The park position is the first end position and is used to set the spring blade exactly to hold the cam position correctly in park. The spring blade can move a small amount on the screw hole so it can be set exactly, to align the electrical contacts that allow the start switch and the ecu signals to all match. Which is why you are best to leave them alone.

    I cannot say more except this. Put the cable back on the selector where it was before with the lever in park and see that the spring roller sits in the first cam detent as far as it will go.
    Jaahn
    Last edited by jaahn; 21st August 2018 at 03:21 PM.
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    Changing the solenoids in a AL4 (Peugeot 206cc 1.6L 16V) - Questions on re-assembly

    I'm thinking the topic of above post may have a bearing on your problem.
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    Hi
    Any feed back on the job. Was it successful in the end !!
    Jaahn

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