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Thread: Haltech Problem

  1. #1
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    Default Haltech Problem

    I have a very annoying problem with the Haltech Sprint 500 in my 309 rally car. Every now and again it cuts out at moderate revs, eventually this clears. Combined with this when it occurs is poor running just off idle. The tacho loses it's signal at the same time, at the moment cutting at 4000, sometimes around 3000.
    To me it seems it must be either the ECU or the CAS. I replaced the CAS at a time when it was playing up and was relieved to see it then behaved itself but now the problem has returned. I don't think it is a wiring problem as it is rev dependant, have tried moving and tugging the wiring loom. Totally in the dark at the moment, this ECU is just a box whereas I know the Megasquirts inside out.
    I will be buying a new computer tomorrow as my present one won't run the Haltech tuning software so should be better placed then but thought someone may have experienced something like this?
    Is there a facility on these ECUs that prevents higher revs and loads until the engine is warmed up?

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! racing405's Avatar
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    Make sure you have good battery volts. You'd be surprised how that will affect running at higher revs when you're using LS1 type coils.
    racing 405
    1:59:09 last time at Phillip Island - less than standard Mi16.

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    Thanks Ben but it comes and goes so I don't think this is the problem, also the tacho dies at the same time, signifying something is going wrong before it gets to the ignition driver outputs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GRAHAM WALLIS View Post
    Thanks Ben but it comes and goes so I don't think this is the problem, also the tacho dies at the same time, signifying something is going wrong before it gets to the ignition driver outputs.
    It seems unlikely, but if you have a spare battery it might be worth a try. I've had a trouble starting mine a few times - the engine starter has enough power to turn the engine over, but the haltech is switching on/off/on/off and engine doesn't fire.

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    COL
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    This sounds like an intermittent fault (bad connection) somewhere, could be in a plug or even in the ECU.

    Sorry can't be of more help, maybe check all the connections that form part of the ignition system.
    Regards Col

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    I have actually had starting problems, it seems to be set up for way too rich cranking mixture, if it doesn't fire straight away it floods and the plugs have to come out, I replaced the Iridium plugs with something else today and it now starts reliably.
    However, the problem in question is with the engine running so changing the (new Odyessy battery) won't be of any benefit as the alternator is supplying the voltage. I'm going to check the CAS shield earthing tomorrow.

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    I'm considering replacing the LS1s with a 405 SRi/205 Si wasted spark coil, never had an inkling of trouble with these units.

    Quote Originally Posted by racing405 View Post
    Make sure you have good battery volts. You'd be surprised how that will affect running at higher revs when you're using LS1 type coils.

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    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    Some years ago I had a tacho that was shorting out my ignition at certain resonant frequencies. Just disconnected it and all was fine.
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    Thanks Alan but this one is connected to the tacho output of the Haltech, 5 volt logic levels, not the ignition system.

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    Data log what is going on with the ecu. Sounds like a trigger issue


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    OK, checked and got the earthing for the braid on the CAS cable sorted properly. No effect though.
    I did find though after playing around with CA sensors that the cutting out happens with 2 of them and not with another 2 so at the moment it is OK. Plain as day, consistent cutting out with one of the sensors, then nothing on the other. It seems the ECU is very sensitive to output from the CAS, I had this problem with a Megasquirt unit, fixed that by adjusting a trim pot. Is there an adjustment in the Haltech?
    Maybe just buy a new sensor.

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    Fellow Frogger! racing405's Avatar
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    Yes there is an electronic setting for trigger and cut levels pretty sure. It will also tell you how many triggers it has missed. You can buy the crank angle sensor in a Hyundai bag way cheaper than oem.
    racing 405
    1:59:09 last time at Phillip Island - less than standard Mi16.

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    Thanks Ben, I have the new lap top now so will have a look soon.

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    COL
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    Graham

    Which Haltech model do you have? After looking at several diagrams depending on what type of CAS you have depends on how they are connected.

    I found this ECU Guides & Wiring | Haltech - Engine Management Systems and may pay to check exactly how you have it connected for your model ECU and CAS that you are using.
    Regards Col

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    Sprint 500, yes I have printed off the wiring diagram and used it to install the engine management system.

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    Got my new lap top, $399 from JB, seems perfectly OK.
    This means I can access the ECU and report that yes, the triggering is adjustable and it is set at .25 volts for 100 rpm graduating to 2.62 volts at 3000. Does anyone with a Haltech have any knowledge of what theirs is set to?

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    COL
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    Just had trawl of the Haltech Forum and come up with this thread Engine stall/cut out issue - Official Haltech Forums not saying this is your problem, but maybe worth checking.

    I also see on the site there is a Data Log Viewer ECU Software | Haltech - Engine Management Systems maybe worth getting if you don't already have it.
    Regards Col

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    Thanks Col I've installed the Data Log Viewer but haven't had a look yet.

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    Change to a 60-2 hall effect sensor for a more reliable trigger. There is a BMW with a physically identical trigger to the Pug CAS, but in hall effect. I haven't seen it. Research on the 205 Forum. I use a Haltech hall effect CAS but it's more fiddly to fit. Send me your map and I'll have a look a the coolant and cold start settings.

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    OK, thanks Peter.

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    Have you got it sorted Graham, or do you want to sell the Haltech back to me cheap and go get yourself another Megasquirt???
    racing 405
    1:59:09 last time at Phillip Island - less than standard Mi16.

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    I'd be happy to do that ( I have an MS3 lying around) except that I would have to replace the ECU loom and then pay a large amount of money to get it retuned. Seems Ok with the other CAS but I should try Peter Ts suggestion of a Hall effect CAS.

  24. #24
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    Ordered a Hall effect sensor, $27.

  25. #25
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    Just change the type of sensor in the pull down menu under Trigger. Everything else stays the same, other than you may need a pull up resistor.

    '92 205 Mi16
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