Traction Avant( 1948 )Starting issues
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Thread: Traction Avant( 1948 )Starting issues

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default Traction Avant( 1948 )Starting issues

    Hi, I am having trouble starting my TA which is usually not an issue.
    I have a fully charged battery. Plenty of spark. Fuel at the pump and fuel at the carby.
    I found a small filter at the carby which looks like a rolled up piece of fine copper. This had quite a lot of
    rubbish covering the fine mesh. I have cleaned this filter and I am wondering if some dirt has got down into the carby. Engine is turning over but not even a hint of ignition.Any help much appreciated.

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Roland's Avatar
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    You mention plenty of spark - Is this at the plugs? Have you removed at least one plug and then grounded it to check it is sparking?

    Then of course - timing - is that OK?

    Otherwise - I suggest that a complete remove and clean of the carby may be the way to go.

    You can confirm if the carby is blocked and prove that there is spark at the plugs by having someone attempt to start it while you spray some "start yu bastard" down the carby. (or a teaspoon of fuel poured down the throat will do)

    If it starts and runs for a brief moment then it must be the carby that is blocked!

    Cheers
    Roland

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  3. #3
    Tadpole
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    Hi Roland, In regards to the spark I have taken one of the leads off and got plenty of spark to the block. I will try start yu bastard.
    I have also tried to blow air from the fuel pump line from the pump to the carby but not possible. Should that be a open line.
    Thanks very much for your help.
    Hear from you soon.
    Regards
    Gavin.

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Gavin,
    Have replied to your query on the Citroen Thread. Unfortunately I didn't fully read it. The bit about having spark then posting of no ignition threw me. Sorry.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! Roland's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2CV48TA View Post
    Hi Roland, In regards to the spark I have taken one of the leads off and got plenty of spark to the block.
    Yes - but are the plugs sparking inside the engine? - Hence pull a plug, earth it and check - might as well clean the plugs at the same time!

    Quote Originally Posted by 2CV48TA View Post
    I have also tried to blow air from the fuel pump line from the pump to the carby but not possible. Should that be a open line.
    If I have understood correctly then no it shouldn't. There is a valve in the carby (in the float chamber) that cuts off flow when the level of fuel is correct in the carby.

    It really sounds like a blocked carby - the spark plug out etc and start-yu-bastard is just to confirm that the motor still runs and is getting spark to the plugs.

    Cheers
    Roland

    Land Rover Discovery 4
    406 Coupe D9 - Manual (2002)
    307 Hdi Estate - Auto - (2007)
    307 Hdi Sedan - Auto - (2007)
    505GR Estate - Personal Import from UK 1971cc Manual (March 1986)
    405 Mi16x4 (all the parts ready to install into the LeMans body)

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! Roland's Avatar
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    Gavin,

    I have just read your thread in the Citroen forum and there's some excellent and knowledgeable advice there from people who are familiar with your engine and carburetor setup.

    I'd definitely recommend trying start-yu-bastard but after that the advice about the various jets and cleaning the carburetor in the Citroen posts would be your best course of action.

    Cheers
    Roland

    Land Rover Discovery 4
    406 Coupe D9 - Manual (2002)
    307 Hdi Estate - Auto - (2007)
    307 Hdi Sedan - Auto - (2007)
    505GR Estate - Personal Import from UK 1971cc Manual (March 1986)
    405 Mi16x4 (all the parts ready to install into the LeMans body)

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Second all the preceding about spark testing. Should also be borne in mind that removing a plug & testing isn't fully definitive as it's possible to get a (weak) spark in fresh air but have no spark in the high pressure of a cylinder.
    Your comment Re the crud in the filter, is it possible some of the fine crud fell off during removal & has blocked the needle valve at the top of the float chamber?
    In any case the old adage that '90% of carburettor problems are ignition' applies :-)


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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Has the timing ie distributor rotation/ position been altered since the last starting ?

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    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by baldrick56 View Post
    Second all the preceding about spark testing. Should also be borne in mind that removing a plug & testing isn't fully definitive as it's possible to get a (weak) spark in fresh air but have no spark in the high pressure of a cylinder.
    Your comment Re the crud in the filter, is it possible some of the fine crud fell off during removal & has blocked the needle valve at the top of the float chamber?
    In any case the old adage that '90% of carburettor problems are ignition' applies :-)


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    Allow me to quote from John Passini's book on Weber carbs.
    "The pathetic antics of an engine trying to cope with the wrong mixture will be regarded by the carburetor with the detachment of an Aztec idol."

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    Has the timing ie distributor rotation/ position been altered since the last starting ?
    Another thing to eliminate, between the baseplate of the dizzy & the body of same there'll be a tiny earthing strap. This moves constantly with the advance of the timing & it's possible for it to break in fatigue - had to resolder one once on a Bosch dizzy, cured some very rough running.


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    Baldrick,

    fleet: 1989 Peugeot 505 GTi Wagon
    1969 Peugeot 404 Sedan
    2003 Smart 452 Roadster
    2005 MG ZR160
    1988 Mercedes 300E
    1953 Citroen 15CV (under Restoration)
    1953 Bristol 401 (under Restoration)
    That's one for each day of the week - I really should stop

  11. #11
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    Hi
    Just a comment on jets and float needles and fuel deposits.
    It has been my observation that the fuel we get now is a lot dirtier that it was in past times. It leaves a lot of gummy deposits as it evaporates which set and block the small jets and glue the float needle in place etc. This is really bad if the fuel feeds in to the system as it evaporates and can leave a deposit that needs soaking in thinners or the like to get the jets out even.

    So my suggestion is to run the carby dry when you stop using it. Even using only 98 as that has more additives to clean the fuel system, or indeed putting in some extra additives they use in other countries for winter storage to help with this problem of shitty fuel.
    Jaahn

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