Odd problem w/ Hitachi LIon battery
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  1. #1
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    Default Odd problem w/ Hitachi LIon battery

    Hi

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    A friend (yes, I still have the odd one...) dropped off a fairly new but rather dead cassette style 18v LIon battery. No worries says I, I'll jump start it to get it up to its charging voltage an it'll be good as new...

    Not so. The battery reads 18.XX v, so the charger recognises it but when placed in the tool, nothing. Cleaned contacts etc., still nothing.

    Any thoughts?
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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Try a brake light globe on it. Should come up max bright if the battery has juice. If not, is dead regardless of voltage at no load. If you measure the balancing ports you might be able to find the dead cell(s). If they all show correct voltage, try again the load test on each cell with a 3V (or thereabouts) rated globe.

    Someone might have discharged it below the threshold voltage and killed it.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

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  3. #3
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    Cool. Thanks.
    Daily Drivers: R10, R12, R17T(?) Decouvrable

    In the Shed(s):
    R8 (1.4 motor, 4 shock rear end), Dauphine, Pugeot 404

    In the Past:
    Dauphine X2, R10 X lots, R12 X2, R16TS, R17TS

  4. #4
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    Hi
    The tool has an electronic circuit that monitors the battery and shuts it down when it thinks it is low. Perhaps this has malfunctioned. I have no cure !
    Jaahn

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Typical symptom of a dead Lithium Ion battery. If it was purchased recently I'd be asking for a new battery.

    The number of charge- discharge cycles are finite and limited. Th battery will degrade if left discharged for a long period in a hot. environment.

    They also self discharge more rapidly than other type of cells.

    Ideally, you should measure 3.6 volts per cell (IIRC) if the battery is charged and in good condition.

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Nah, nominal they are 3.7V cells, but they go to about 4.2V per cell when charged properly. Some even more. They can be stored, but you need a smart charger to do that. I store my Lipos at 2.8V per cell even if only overnight. Not sure if industrial chargers do that for you, perhaps it is worth investing in a smart charger to extend their life (depending on the battery the charger might cost about as much or up to twice as much, so cost would be recovered fairly quickly).

    If I had to take a guess, industrial chargers are balance charging, which takes longer but preserves battery life way better.

    Cutoff voltage is about 3.2V per cell, so you could measure your battery when it comes off the tool needing a charge to see how the protective circuitry is doing its job.

    A small load (100mA should suffice) should be applied at all times when reading voltage. This will also tell you if all cells are equally healthy.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 7th November 2016 at 07:24 PM.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Exfrogger View Post
    Hi

    A friend (yes, I still have the odd one...) dropped off a fairly new but rather dead cassette style 18v LIon battery. No worries says I, I'll jump start it to get it up to its charging voltage an it'll be good as new...

    Not so. The battery reads 18.XX v, so the charger recognises it but when placed in the tool, nothing. Cleaned contacts etc., still nothing.

    Any thoughts?
    Hi exfrogger,

    While it could be performance of the LI cells (as outlined by others), it could also be something more simple.

    Generally speaking, a healthy voltage at no load, and no voltage on load is often an indication of bad connection, with the tiniest current causing thermal expansion and hence open circuit.

    Remove the current(load), the joint cools and tadah! healthy voltage returns. Can be very frustrating.

    This is what resulted in the PO and mechanic giving up on my 406 Coupe...which is now running beautifully.

    Cheers,
    Andrew

    Driving - '90 XM, '85 CX IE Auto, 406 Coupe, 405 srdt wagon, '78 dyane, Resting (or Rusting): '73 Birotor '82 CX Presitige, '81 CX Break IE, GS X2, GS1015 Wagon, GS 1300 5sp Wagon, '76 GS 1220 Wagon, '75 GS Wagon, '58 2CV, '58 Vauxhall Velox

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