504 rebirth

[leftcoast]

ok i know your all dying to see the progress, hahah (tumbleweed-----) but i can tell you there is not much, hahahah, but i have almost finished the engine bay, YAY!, just need new leads, belts, oil filter, oil and to find my rocker cover bolts, eeeek plus a few other things to put back together, but still pushing for the perth french day but when its raining i dont feel like working on it and when its sunny i feel like going to a beer garden somewhere, and long work hours are killing me, but hey thats life




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[Peter Chisholm]

Looking good. I like that you've gone to a lot of trouble to clean up the engine etc and it makes a real difference. The radiator looks a bit sad.

[leftcoast]

Thanks, yeah radiator is almost dead, looking to replace but having issues finding a decent replacement, and would like to update and switch to thermo fans, so had to stick to the old one for now

[robmac]

Thanks, yeah radiator is almost dead, looking to replace but having issues finding a decent replacement, and would like to update and switch to thermo fans, so had to stick to the old one for now

An XN engine 505 radiator will fit , hoses and all. They are getting thin on ground.

Otherwise, measure up and go down to Jollys U Pullit and go looking at Holden VT, VN, VS. VR or similar. You need to make brackets and figure out hoses but the radiator and fan assembly will fit. Holden radiators are plastic so try to find a radiator with a temperature sensor fitted. You can't easily fit the Peugeot sensor to the radiator.

Build one of these kits: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5377 and use the Holden sensor and a relay to to run the holden electric fans.

Or if the radiator has no sensor, you can bronze weld a temperature switch ferrule into a piece of pipe "cut into" the bottom radiator hose and use the peugeot sensor (don't forget the earth) to trigger a relay. I have a tap for making the ferrules.

I have done conversions using both methods.

[leftcoast]

on the subject of radiators and air filters, i have swapped the orig, for a (dry fit for now) slighly newer 3 core copper cross flow model, (the old one was blocked up like a 50's coastal gum ball machine) and close to death, i can just hook up the existing tranny cooler to similar points on this radiator, one only drama i need to think of a new air filter arrangement and getting the air flow to the oil filter as i have to remove the cooling pipe aimed towards the oil filter, and also worry if the little pug motor/water pump will be able to cope with the larger radiator??? but for city and hwy cruising im thinking it will be ok yeah??? haha one way to find out




Its kinda hard to see in this photo but there is a radiator tranny cooler just like the pug version, so im hoping with the larger radiator it will completely balance out the heat form everything, i may have to run some ducting, or fab up a horizontal scoop underneath after the radiator to get that extra air flow through the engine bay




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[neil s]

What Radiator is your new one ? If you are worried about airflow I have a cut out behind the front bumper to direct more airflow- appears to work well but I would try the new radiator before breaking out the jig saw. Also, plenty of TIs around with good quality pod style air filters fitted. Neil

[leftcoast]

dont plan to cut anything yet, i still have to get a thermo fan in there some how, still not to late to go back to original, ahahaha

the radiator is well a secret because i dont really know what it is out of, but its HUGE, should be interesting to see how she goes,

so with the new radiator i have had to fab up this intake pipe, just hope it works ok and doesn't change the vacuum levels to much

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[leftcoast]

so i had to make up this reducer also to suit the different hose sizes required, its 2 different hose pipes welded together with a bit of heatshrink over it, classy hey! Oh and the radiator is out of a commodore vl rb30. Auto




and the auto transmission cooling goes straight back to the fixing on the chassis, just needed to put on new fittings












now just to work out the temp sensor, as i need a thermo fan im not sure if i need the original sensor as there will be no clutch fan engaging, just need to hook it up to the thermo fan somehow, a mazda 3 fan and shroud seems to fit nicely as it pretty slim design, will let you know how it goes, ALMOST THERE!!!!hahaha

[leftcoast]

so after the minor rebuild i tried to start it and swapping over my feed and return fuel lines, it started on the second attempt, mind you i did add a bottle of octane booster and shook the car like crazy to stir it up, as the fuel has been sitting there for a long time. minus the fumes burning off the engine/exhaust the engine seems just as good as before, and there are no leaks now, YAY

so i had to turn the car around to pull off the passenger doors to get access to the sills/surrounds to prep for paint as i had a brick wall in the way, so as she sat there purring away i open the garage door ready for it to see the light for the fist time in 10 months, i hopped in and selected reverse and took the hand break off, as she slowly crept out of the garage, then idle warm up speed made me scoot along a bit faster than i anticipated towards the road, then realising i hadnt finished bleeding the brakes and had no stopping power apart from the hand break, i slammed it in to neutral and went for the hand break, just before i ripped it up

SMACK

straight in to my brick letterbox, forgetting it was even there, putting a deep gauge from the rear light to the front passenger door, ouch,

f#*%ing idiot, lucky no body saw me, except the old lady walking her dog across the road, she was probably thinking the same thing as me "what a dick. and they say the elderly cant drive",

all i can say is lucky i hadnt painted it yet, i would of just shot my self in the face, now im faced with numerous hours of panel beating, it hurts me because i was happy with all the panel work and so close to painting it.
but to no avail, oh well better get to it then

[pugrambo]

make sure you put the right rad cap on that radiator

[peujohn]

Ouch!

[leftcoast]

I've tried looking for a VL radiator cap with the lower rating but having trouble finding one, any tips?

[pugrambo]

use the 504 one

[GRAHAM WALLIS]

On a Holden radiator, probably too big?

use the 504 one

[leftcoast]

The 504 radiator cap fits ok, but doesnt have the secondary seal like the VL one, not to sure if it will need it as the primary seal is the same size 37/mm and seams to form a pretty good seal on the VL radiator inner lip.

The seal ring also sits at the same depth on both of the caps 23mm, so dont see why they are not compatible, Thanks Pugrambo,

saves me getting one made up through work,

VL radiator cap on the left, original 504 on the right



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also bought some stuff online, and noticed these dont have the grease nipples like the ones on the car, should i be worried? which ones do you think are better? i bought them because the old boots were split so could easily just swap boots if these sealed units are not trusted or need replacing more often? any had any issue with these?




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[orestes]

Nice to see this work going on, my first car was a 504 Ti until a truck came and wrote it off. We need to start saving a few of these as in the last 10-15 years good examples have been going off to the Middle East/Africa by boat. I actually saw a nice silver 504 drive past me a few weeks ago, kind of a sentimental thing I guess growing up in the back of one 504 or another and the salmon pink 403 wagon we had.

The biggest issue with these, as with my car originally is shonky mechanics that stuff around with the kugelfischer injection. I bought my car for $500 for the usual symptom "doesn't start" Ha Ha! 30 seconds later... Your engine bay looks mint though judging by the recent pictures, I'm jealous.

[Wildebeest]

Leftcoast,
The Holden cap would be for a recovery system. The pressure would be too high for the 504.
The Peugeot cap would be for a non recovery system, pressure would be correct at 4lb/sq".
Peugeot recovery caps are available if you are/should be fitting a recovery bottle.

Could you drill and tap the ball joints for a grease nipple? Modern cars are rarely fitted with grease nipples.

[leftcoast]

Orestes: I was lucky for whom I bought the car off had it running rather smoothly and I didn't need to touch a thing, well apart from the stuff I've revived

Wilde:
Was planning to fit overflow tank, and now see how the second seal works, so I guess i need to still find one,

The thickness of the pressed in caps on the tie rod ends seem firm enough to tap some nipples in, might give it a go. If they fail ill just use the boots off them on the old ones

[Wildebeest]

Local radiator repair and coolant specialist [FloKleen]* supplied an overflow kit consisting of a plastic tank with a non pressurised cap [similar to a screen wash reservoir]. To make the normal radiator cap into a recovery type they supplied a large rubber washer that fitted under the cap. O/d 55mm.Centre hole 25mm. 2mm thick rubber.
If you get into conversation with the manager be prepared for an ear bashing about his product.

*Balcatta Road.

[leftcoast]

thanks wildebeest will check them out this week,

meanwhile i have attacked the front end, started out as this



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so i decided to do it all,... why not hey shes worth it, so im shopping around for new everything and even thinking of getting most of the parts zinc coated, probably just in black.

so ive got the new tie rod ends, but stupidly ordered 2 of the drivers side type, now i have to track down this one shown in the picture,




gotten as far as the ball joints, these were shot and boots split, tricky little suckers to get off, and tricky to find correct replacements, thinking i may have to take them somewhere to get done as i am at the limit of my shed capabilities on this one but need to get them apart to clean up everything,




next is a caliper rebuild, with new pads, as the old ones on one side didnt have the wire coming out of them, not really sure if this feature is a must, but if it came out with them i may as well keep em working

then all new bushes, ball joints etc then time to lift up the back as it has that dreaded rear end knocking sound when you push down on the car or rock it side to side, not to sure what it is but must be fixed for peace of mind, ive heard the rear beam blocks wear out and causes this, should be fun, may even overhaul the diff/ gearbox to finally stop all leaks if i can fend off the "never get rid of them all" redback family that has made them selfs at home under the old girl, RAAAAIIIIDDDD

[GRAHAM WALLIS]

I've got a new kit for the tie rod end available, actually a few. Also one only strut ball joint kit.
It is most important that the retaining nut is properly staked and preferably loctited as well. Many of these have come undone due to imcompetent work.

Graham

thanks wildebeest will check them out this week,

meanwhile i have attacked the front end, started out as this



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so i decided to do it all,... why not hey shes worth it, so im shopping around for new everything and even thinking of getting most of the parts zinc coated, probably just in black.

so ive got the new tie rod ends, but stupidly ordered 2 of the drivers side type, now i have to track down this one shown in the picture,




gotten as far as the ball joints, these were shot and boots split, tricky little suckers to get off, and tricky to find correct replacements, thinking i may have to take them somewhere to get done as i am at the limit of my shed capabilities on this one but need to get them apart to clean up everything,




next is a caliper rebuild, with new pads, as the old ones on one side didnt have the wire coming out of them, not really sure if this feature is a must, but if it came out with them i may as well keep em working

then all new bushes, ball joints etc then time to lift up the back as it has that dreaded rear end knocking sound when you push down on the car or rock it side to side, not to sure what it is but must be fixed for peace of mind, ive heard the rear beam blocks wear out and causes this, should be fun, may even overhaul the diff/ gearbox to finally stop all leaks if i can fend off the "never get rid of them all" redback family that has made them selfs at home under the old girl, RAAAAIIIIDDDD

[leftcoast]

photo1ph.jpg

^^ thinking of using this reducer that the lads at work made and might get them also to drill and tap the old 504 radiator temp sensor in, will cost me a case of piss tho, will be well worth it.

then i should be able to use this sensor to kick in the thermo fan control

[leftcoast]

im on to my doors now, been keeping busy doing it all at snails pace, but now all doors are back on and in to hours and hours of panel prep now,





then gave the door some colour
and im installing a remote central locking kit, which will be eventually be controlled by a alarm, the window misses the locking motor by about hmmmm 3-4mm, just fits.




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[Peter L]

Hi Guys
We have a 1974 504 2L sedan. Restored to a immaculate condition. With all the rain we have been having in Queensland there are is 2 cabin leaks. One is fixed around the rear windscreen. The one I would like to ask about is on the front passengers foot area. Looked under the dashboard and there it is a bad rust spot which is just under the grill at the base of the windscreen. Getting under the dash board is a pain and grinding out the rust will be messie.
Is there a easier way of getting to this rust spot?

[pugnut1]

Hi Guys
We have a 1974 504 2L sedan. Restored to a immaculate condition. With all the rain we have been having in Queensland there are is 2 cabin leaks. One is fixed around the rear windscreen. The one I would like to ask about is on the front passengers foot area. Looked under the dashboard and there it is a bad rust spot which is just under the grill at the base of the windscreen. Getting under the dash board is a pain and grinding out the rust will be messie.
Is there a easier way of getting to this rust spot?

It probably means taking the dash out - it bolts in. It'll make the repair job much easier to do correctly. Quite a bit of work, but proabaly easier than on later models