207 (RD4) OEM Head unit + amp (wiring diagram)

hey,

Today I installed an amp and subwoofer into my 207 with the factory RD4 head unit.

I got so close to finishing it but I didn't have a drill to get my power cable through the firewall- I will have to do it later in the week.

Started off working out where the amp and sub will go - I was toying with putting the amp under the seat for a while as there are pipes for such wires to run through already in place - it also would mean that the fragile amp would not be in the boot where you through your golf clubs/ bodies or such in.

So amp went in the boot - I ran power cable with remote wire down the passenger side and found a nice spot for the cable to go through the firewall just behind the glove box.

Changed the battery terminals over to my gold plated LED terminals with volt meter which required allot of cutting into the old cable and connectors.

ok so how do you connect a sub to a head unit without any output.

There are two ways- high level output or high level to low level RCA converters which you can purchase from JCar

I didn't finish the install today as mentioned but I ran both RCA and high level cable down the drivers side so I will be able to test which will sound better- i doubt it will matter seeing as I am only going to power a subwoofer off it but I will plug in some speakers just to see what the quality is like.

Also-the way i connected in the high level- RCA box was i just striped a bit of the rear speaker cable wires and soldiered them on as a T-Junction. the RCA box shouldn't put to much power so the back speakers will still work fine Ill let you guys and girls know how it goes. when i plug it in.

RD4 Wire diagram

Part A
Pin 1: Right Rear audio +
Pin 2: audio Right front +
Pin 3: audio Left front +
Pin 4: Left Rear audio +
Pin 5: Right Rear audio -
Pin 6: Right front audio -
Pin 7: audio front Left -
Pin 8: audio Rear Left -
___ (contacts 1 to 8 - is the amplifier output power, the dynamics)
Pin 9: Not used
Pin 10: data CAN High
Pin 11: +12 v switched remote - the signal output to activate external devices (amp)
Pin 12: battery +12 volt powered radio
Pin 13: CAN data low
Pin 14: external mute - input signal to mute the music, such as the handsfree
Pin 15: Not used
Pin 16: ground - "mass" of the unit,

Part B
Pin 1: audio right AUX 2
Pin 2: audio ground AUX 2
Pin 3: Not used
Pin 4: audio right AUX 1 - right channel AUX input
Pin 5: Not used
Pin 6: Not used
Pin 7: audio left AUX 2
Pin 8: Not used
Pin 9: Not used (microphone)
Pin 10: audio left AUX 1 - left channel AUX input
Pin 11: audio ground AUX 1 - "earth" AUX input
Pin 12: Not used

Part C
Pin 1: ground CDC (cd-Changer)
Pin 2: data CAN low CDC
Pin 3: + battery CDC
Pin 4: Right audio CDC
Pin 5: Not used
Pin 6: Not used
Pin 7: CAN data High
Pin 8: audio ground CDC
Pin 9: Not used
Pin 10: audio left CDC
Pin 11: Not used
Pin 12: not used

Fuse (minifuse) 15A
converter box


Been at it for most of the day- as well as fixing plumbing around the house so my hands are so hacked up. Sorry for mistakes

Good work with the info... the mods should sticky this post.

sooo finally got my hands on a drill and put a hole in the firewall just behind the glove box. Attached it all up and tuned my amp cut offs to work well with the current in door speakers and I have to say it sounds fairly good.

Allot better than standard sound system - more depth in the music and the speakers in door dont sound as strained - If you are going to do this make sure you turn the sub amp up to the level you want with the bass set in deck as 0. otherwise there will be distortion and you need to match the levels of the current speakers otherwise it will be very heavy on the deep notes.

Few notes- I grounded the amp in boot under the floor card- its quite handy having that solid floor card- underneeth there is the spare wheel and some bolts that you can use for grounding - make sure you sand a bit of paint off though

Another node - dont use the auto volume equaliser because it will make it sound very muddy

All in all it cost me

$70 for the power cable for the amp
$10 for speaker cable that i ran out with the rcas (just incase I decide to put in a new head unit and replace the front speakers
$60 for new battery terminals (you dont need these- any that allow you to connect the wires will do
$22 for the RCA conversion box
$20 for the RCA cables

I already had the amp and sub, speaking of which i am still trying to get rid of a cadence 12" sub and sony amp if anyone is interested.

Next step is getting rid of the vinyl off the current sub box and putting a OEM looking carpet on - also mounting the amp to the side of the boot (near inside tyre wall) to save boot space

Nice post with good info.

Got any pics of the install? How much better do you now rate it over the standard audio? What sort of 207 is it?

its a 207 HDI - its better than the standard install - but I am fairly fussy with my music and I would say that I am going to replace my head unit down the track with some of the low notes bellow what the current head unit output sometimes they are slightly out of pitch due to the deck - I might leave it for 6 months or so - i have better things to spend the money on like paying off the car lol.

I am hoping to probably get a double din- take out the head unit all together but I am worried about the ability to change the clock afterwards on the dash. So I might end up with two head units

The wiring diagram will work for any 207, Citroen and some other models with the rd4 multiplex wire system

Change of plans - I went to look at head units and thought - for the same price I can put some form of Tablet /iPad or something So I will start on this and let you guys know how I go