205 MI16 Racecar - Broom Broom

DRTDVL

I might be slow...
1000+ Posts
Joined
May 25, 2005
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Location
Auckland
Good Morning,

In the interests of re-building the AF database of info and to update the progress on my 205, I will slowly add more info and photos. *cough* stolen from Isis's thread *cough*

Basic history:
It started life as a white 1.6 gti and was used as a press-car (i've got the original NZ Car mag where it was on the cover being thrown around a gravel quarry.) In 2002 the pervious owner - Mark Herbert -built the car for the 2002 Dunlop NZ Targa, and unfortunately didn't finish the race due to an accident. Mark repaired the car and then it's sat in his workshop waiting for the finishing touches to be done since then.

In 2008 went to see Mark to price up a rollcage for the 306, after 30 min of looking at the rollcage in the 205 to show me was he would do - i was sold - nice rollcage it was going to be... Mark then as i was walking out the door asked if i would like to buy the 205. I took 1 day for me to confirm that i could purchase the car - re: The GF approving that i spent the money on buying the car instead of a trip to the states, which as you can tell by reading this it was...

The car will be used for tarmac events until i can afford the undercar protection and gravel suspension - so i'm figuring a few years off... (note: 2 yrs later i'm still not able to afford it... hehe)

Engine:
Oil Cooler = 11 Row external (i think it's 11 row) Mocal
Engine = 405 MI16 4WD XU9J4
ECU = 405 MI16 4WD XU9J4 + Peter T Chip
Engine Mounts: Customised Factory Top mount, Aftermarket Uprated Lower Mount, factory gearbox mount
Sump = Customized Sump (Windage Tray, Increased Volume, Modified front)
Fuel Lines = moved into cabin, all braided lines
Oil Breather System = Custom
6Bar PTS Oil Pump Spring
Custom Heat Shield
Washer bottle = 309 rear bottle

Spec:
Dyno’ed at 128hp at the wheel at 7500rpm

Suspension:
Rear:
Cut down 306 S16 24mm anti-roll bar
Rebuilt rear beam.
Solid BakerBM mounts (group a)
Spax Adjustable shocks
Factory 1.9 GTI Torsion Bars
Assuming 205 trailing arms

Front:
Bilstien Adjustable Coilovers (unknown spring/spring rate - est 200/250lbs)
Adjustable Camber / Caster Plates
306 S16 Hubs with stud conversion

Exhaust
Custom 2.5 inch system.
Painted with Black High Temp paint

Gearbox / Drivetrain
306 S16 driveshaft – gear box input end
405 CV’s
205 middle and hub driveshaft ends
306 S16 BE3 (same ratios as MI16)
Kevlar Clutch
Quaife automatic torque biasing helical gear LSD
Upgraded linkages
Custom Quickshifter
Phosphor Bronze bushes

Brakes
Front:
Peugeot 307 XSP 283mm Disc / Calipers (rebuilt)
Peugeot 406 23.8mm Master Cylinder
Braided Lines

Middle:
Custom lines
Wilwood Adjustable Bias Valve
Hydraulic Handbrake

Rear:
Peugeot Rear discs on Series 3 beam
1.6 GTI front calipers using standard rear disc
Custom braided lines with banjo fittings caliper end


Body
Painted Silver
Satin Black painted trim, door handles, wing mirrors, slam panel, skuttle plate, gti badges
E30 Pre-Facelift lower lip – modified to fit
206 GTI rear wing – modified to fit
Sump Guard
Clear front indicators
405 arms wiper and 306 blades (larger sweep area)
205 “Automatic” Bonnet
Spotlights cut out of Bumper
Rear 1/4 windows = Lexan
Sideskirts have had jack mounts fabricated into them
3M High Temp Foil Tape along trans-tunnel
88 GTI wing mirrors (smoother and smaller then later gti mirrors)

Interior:
Battery behind co-driver’s seat
Water Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure gauges
Electric Kill Switch
Interior Panels replaced with Carbon Fibre Panels
Chrome-Molly Roll Cage
Interior Completely stripped bar Roof Liner
Dash modified to fit rollcage
Seats = Racetech 4009w & Racetech 4000
Belts = Racetech (TRS) 3inch 6-point
Steering Wheel = Momo Race
Flooring = Checker Plate, sound deadening removed
Terraphone Professional Amplifier + 2 x touring head sets
Extended Steering Wheel Shaft

Wheels/tyres
4 x 15inch ROH Astrons
4 x 306 S16 rims
4 x 405 MI16
2 x 205 GTI “speedlines”
4 x DZ03 Semi Slicks
4 x Bridgestone G3 road tyres
5 x Dunlop D01J
4 x worn semi’s for trackday abuse

Thats all i can remember at the moment.

For the record, all mods have engineering certificates and it recently passed its roadworthy.
 
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Future Plans:
22mm Torsion Bars, 25mm Anti-Roll Bar
Rebuild front bilstiens, new rear bilstiens, new front springs
1.9 GTI Hubs, 309 control arms, 309 rod ends, Quaife Quick Steering Rack, 309 Middle driveshaft components
Seam Welded front subframe
New Engine mounts
Carbone Loraine RC6 Pads
Aftermarket ECU, Quad Throttles, Upgraded Cams
Custom Gearbox – S16/MI16 1st, 2nd, Final Drive – 1.6 GTI 3rd, 4th, 5th

More later
 
good boy! decent post

I think it will love the extra power once you get there. The UK boys seem to be quoting that the Mi16 engine will give them about 170hp - do you think it is right that you lose 30-40hp at the wheels? I guess that is about 20%

Isis
 
985001244_ABKdG-L-1.jpg


taken by the guy from Shutterspeed: http://www.shutterspeed.co.nz/Public-Events/Fiat-Waikato-Hiwi-Rd/13519956_EbD9M#984977522_4bU8V

Who is nice enough to come along to some of the events and take pics..

This is the blind crest you where taking at roughly 140kph
DSC02035.jpg
 
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Things i should be doing instead of working.

1) Fit new top engine mount - solid urthane
2) Clean spare front sub-frame for seam welding
3) Press new bearings into the 205 1.9 gti hubs (freshly sanded and painted)
4) Remove 306 front hubs from the 205, and get the stud converted face mounted onto the 205 hubs
5) Clean and inspect 309 steering rack
6) Clean and inspect 309 control arms
6) Clean and inspect 309 driveshafts
7) Fit 309 control arms, 309 steering rack, driveshafts, and welded subframe
clean and fit new sump
9) Make up blanking plates for old spot lights for silver bumper

Other news:
A friend has given up racing and has given/sold me a whole bunch of parts. Whooo...

2x 205 GTI speedlines
2x Goodridge front braided brake lines (new)
6 sets of basically new (very minor use) brake pads a mix of mintex and ebc
1.9 gti gearbox in pieces (perfect for the close ratio mi16/s16 box i want to build!)
+ more
 
2nd hand rear shocks (Bilstiens from a 306) = installed
rear ride hight adjustment = completed
installation of top engine mount = F!@KING B!@#H = Done (it hadn't been shaped properly so the buffer pads wouldn't fit... multiple removals and re-shapes = lots of wasted time)
Spark plug inspection = done = new spark plugs installed (old sparkies where flush with ceramic base for the waste part. Might explain the starting issue.)

I've also had to replace both the front headlights due to the glass falling out... One shattered and the other came off in my hand when i was checking to see if it was also dead. Re-siliconed all of the headlights so i know have 1 passengers spare.

Also now have a tensioner bearing for the alternator squealing.

The 22mm torsion bars are on order as is the 25mm anti-rollbar
 
sounds like a nice balanced 205 and looks great, pity your mate giving up racing didnt give you a nice prepped race engine :)
 
Haha no, it was done by a guy in Wellington...

Very reasonably priced - $100 NZD for an A4 sized drawing
 
To sell what? The racecar? Ohhh sorry to say that this car will be with me for a Very Very long time.

More than likely it will either be completely written off or given to my kids (when i have them)

The drawing? Get your own... =;-P

On Racecar news.... Found out today that my torsions bars i ordered as part of the group buy last Aug, have finally be finished!!!!!!!!! whooooo
 
your right, but the sale price would be enough for me to build a better 205... so what would be the point when you could build it yourself?
 
Langers, a new $50K Commodore will be worth $25K in 3 years time and still be a boring peice of junk, so whatever you have spent on your car is small bickies, just persist with your unique machine and enjoy it.
 
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Heath, the brace of your roll cage that sits in the wiper motor bay - does that interfere with anything standard? I am interested in getting some more metal between me and the engine etc in case of a front on accident.
 
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