Xantia blinker switch removal

Glad of the essential clues for removal of the column shroud to access Xantia blinker switch. The unit has "frozen" mechanically following a small puff of smoke, but electrically seems to be fine.

It appears to me that removal of the steering wheel is required, but presumably that's not trivial with airbag models?

Tips welcome.
Michael

There are stories of not needing to remove the steering wheel, but it certainly makes things a lot easier.

With engine and power steering operating, set the steering wheel at 90 degrees, say left, then switch off, and disconnect the battery.
Moving the steering wheel is to allow access to the airbag mounting screws.
After 10 minutes of battery disconnection, the airbag can be removed.
Loosen the 2 airbag retaining bolts, and pull the orange airbag plug outwards.
Loosen the steering wheel nut by a few turns, then gently rock free.
No need to force, it will progressively come loose.
There is also a black slipring plug to separate.
There is a black plastic catch to push in, and then the 2 parts pull apart from each other.
You will then see all of the indicator switch, and maybe that a squirt of cleaner/lubricant into the inside rocker operated by the steering wheel will cure it for a long time.
At reassembly, no need to overtighten the steering wheel nut.
It won't escape, and will be easier for next time.

I've got several posts on the subject, including probably here, but can't find them now.

CLEARLY mark alignment points on the wheel and steering column before removal. AFAIK, some airbags have charge available for up to 20 minutes after losing voltage. Haynes manuals recommend 20minutes of battery disconnection.

Search on the Cit forum for other posts re XM indicator switches and UFO username. I did a post some weeks ago about a similar experience. I am on the end of a screaming 26.4kb connection in a motel room - otherwise I would do the search for you.

Thanks guys, these tips much appreciated.

Present plan is to carefully cut through the lower edge of the upper plastic shroud with a jigsaw, so the shroud can be removed without removing the wheel (as it should always have been designed to be). If I decide against this, then I'll diligently follow the tips or just get C'Cars to do it.

The lubricant suggestion is interesting; the mechanical failure was immediate, but followed 4 years of "phantom" relay blinking with stalk in central position. This symptom has continued following the stalk freezing, but I can still operate each blinker by leaning gently on the stalk in either direction. Lights & horn still work, so the puff of smoke remains a mystery (along with many other parts of my Xantia).

I found this in the recent COM2000 thread. I said:

The problem you have sounds like one I have just cured on my XM. If you remove the switch and gently disassemble it (assuming it is similar to the XM one) you will find inside it has one large curved track on one side which I assume to be the + feed to the circuit and the other side has two half tracks with a gap in the middle. In between these two half tracks is a small plastic block which is meant to isolate the pointy contact from the two half tracks and the large track (with me on this?)

Anyway, over time the small plastic block wears away and allows the pointy contact to make just enough contact or be near enough to the circuit for a small amount of current to track through. This makes the relay rattle like a gieger counter but the lights do not flash. DAMNED annoying.

Anyway, when I pulled the switch apart I then cleaned it well with contact cleaner, then gradually built up some height on the plastic block with some of my wife's clear nail polish (I suppose colours wouldn't matter - unless there are metal particles) and while I was at it I also put some nail polish on the middle of the large track to provide a little more insulation (if anyone quotes and edits this and adds words like "also put some on my nails" I will find them and their car and....)

Anyway, I allowed the lot to dry, put the switch back together, put it back in the car and it has been fine so far.

This helpful tip brought to you by Revlon...

Now, Michael - your problem probably is that the small plastic block has completely disappeared (hence the stuck lever as the contact pin has dropped into the gap) and has left the circuit closed and hence your puff of smoke. Source a new/2nd hand switch from Martin Bray in SA.

Fantastic UFO/Revlon! That all makes perfect sense, and inspires me to persist with switch removal over the weekend. (I would have attacked it earlier, but the car is still just driveable, albeit with some inconvenience).

I've decided to cut the top shroud directly beneath the column, where it will never be noticed and will enable much easier future dissembly.

Having a mech eng background plus some electronics as a past hobby, I'm prepared to tackle some novel internal rebuilding of the switch if it saves me a second mortgage.

Thanks heaps for the info.

Michael

mkelly said:

Having a mech eng background plus some electronics as a past hobby, I'm prepared to tackle some novel internal rebuilding of the switch if it saves me a second mortgage.

Click to expand...

Isn't this kind of a pre-requisite for Citroen ownership ? :joker: :joker: :joker:

Regards,
Simon

I wouldn't cut the shroud - no doubt you will find there will be one screw you cannot get too. Remove the wheel - it is not that difficult.