head off enquiries???????

bazgti

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Fellow Frogger
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Jul 13, 2004
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Location
nth balwyn, victoria
we got the head off the gti without too much drama like liners moving etc.
here is a few pictures of the head off.
is there supposed to be all that gunk between the liners and the block?
how to get it out?
i supose we use the right stuff gasket stuff for all the gaskets that dont have the blue line of stuff on them.
here is the piccies,looks like a lot of solidified coolant to me or hard water depositis between the liners and block,is this a water jacket were the water cool around the pistons??
al will also post a few questions relating to these pictures.-BAZZ
 

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couple more.in the second picture there seems to be a slight recess in the top of the lip on the bottom edge of the piccy[hope my explanation is ok]
 

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Ummm... questions....

Is the amount of crap between the liners and the block likely to indicate extensive other hidden problems?

And can i just scrape it out and wash/vacumn it out?
 
Woah the inside of that block does not look healthy!!!!

It should look like the pic below and not have any deposits in the water gallery, if you put that together as is it probably won't cool properly, will continue corroding and all that gunk is going to block up the cooling system resulting in another gasket and or head/block. I don't know if you can clean that up without stripping the engine further. Someone else may be able to advise. I would definately want to get a new radiator too after looking at the state of the water galleries.

Dave
before.jpg
 
That doesnt look so hot mate... I would be more worried about what appears to be rust on the bores from water sitting on pistons 2 and 3 for a while. Doesnt do wonders for ring sealing with rust pitting of the cylinder wall. Soak liberally in WD40 and clean up as best you can.

As for stuff in the water jacket, nothing to be done until its back together and running - then run a coolant flusher through it.
 
al said:
Ummm... questions....

Is the amount of crap between the liners and the block likely to indicate extensive other hidden problems?

And can i just scrape it out and wash/vacumn it out?
Al as you can see above that crap is not normal and even our engine with 300000 k's on it looks just like my GT blockin the pic above. No buildup at all in the water galleries. I'm not sure what else to advise but its definately not normal buildup. Hopefully someone can give you some ideas on how to clean it up and whether it is likely to cause other issues. :(

Dave
 
Haakon said:
That doesnt look so hot mate... I would be more worried about what appears to be rust on the bores from water sitting on pistons 2 and 3 for a while. Doesnt do wonders for ring sealing with rust pitting of the cylinder wall. Soak liberally in WD40 and clean up as best you can.

As for stuff in the water jacket, nothing to be done until its back together and running - then run a coolant flusher through it.

Yeah i'd be somewhat worried about how the compression will be after being a non runner for a year.

Dave
 
WOW :eek: :eek:


Thats the worst looking block i've seen for many days....i'd be really scared putting that back together. I really think your setting yourself up for trouble Al.


Cheers

Ben
 
if it were me i would pull it down further and do it all properly

i would also take the heater matrix to get done at the same time as the radiator or replace the heater matrix as it will be full of gunja as well

looks like it hasn't had regular coolant changes in its life
 
Liner skew wiff

In the head 5 JPG it looks like one liner is slightly below the other, and I guess that if this is so, you will never get a good seal with a new Head gasket, looks to me like candidate for full strip, chemical clean the block and either refit with new seals (iffy) or new liners pistons,rings and seals.

Latter option is much better IMHO and while you are at it check out the crankshaft ovality/taper and condition and fit of main bearings etc.

Another quickie option would be to drop in an o.k. s/hand motor. if money is tight.

If you really like the car and it is worth keeping, then spend the money and rebuild the original engine.

Ken
 
Kenfuego has hit the nail on the head, Al this is getting to the stage where you have to

a) just completely strip and rebuild - and by the looks of it this engine is definately not in good condition and would need the works in a rebuild, you could not do a quick and easy (and cheap) job on it.
or

b) Find a 2nd hand runner and throw it in. I think in your case this is the best option as eventually you will want more power and get an mi16 or something.

Hopefully the suspension is in better nick.

Dave
 
That whiteish deposit is the kind of residue you usually find in an engine that's been OD'd on stop leak of some description so that will wash out with "muckout" or similar.

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5844

Looking down those pots, I'd agree, it seems the donk will have to come out.
I know a guy who has a Pug engine complete he possibly would sell but I can't tell you how much he wants or how or at what price it would cost to get it down there so depending on price, a local wrecker may be the option.

I'd suggest before you hit the panic button, you have a talk with your engine guy and get a price off him to give it the once over and then do a price comparison between that and any used engines you might find.

The sleeves once out, can be inspected at the base and new seals installed and there's all the worry of protrusion or no protrusion solved.

Once out of the car, the actual engine rebuild isn't a major operation labourwise due to it being a wet sleeve motor.

Alan S
 
al,

I think your going to have to bite the bullet.......do a rebuild.....then you will know exactly what you have got and it will be good for many years to come!

A set of pistons and sleeves wont set you back that much!!

Cheers

Ben
 
Thanks so much guys... As soon as i saw the amount of crap blocking the waterways in the gasket i was pretty worried... There is also what appears to be some corrosion in front of cylinder 2 which was big enough for me to see it straight away... I knew that there were dramas with the coolant changes when i had what appeared to be half of tasmania come out of the radiator... I guess this isn't really that suprising...

As much as i would like to do a rebuild, honestly i can't be bothered rebuilding this engine. I never planned on keeping the 8 valver for long anyway, so i don't want the stress of stripping it down.

Baz has told me that one of the melb guys has a running engine that he would sell cheap, so perhaps this is the best idea? If i can buy some time with that it will give me an opportunity to get a cooking 16 valver built...

Thanks again guys... This is kinda depressing, but the rest of the car is good. It is extremely straight, and has new peugeot driveshafts, hoses and brank spanking tyres... While this is a bit of a bitch, i'm not giving up this easily...

If anyone is interested, i have the replacement head which i bought in the garage. This has new stem seals and has been cleaned skimmed - if anyone is interested there will be an ad up shortly...
 
Word to the wise/voice of experience.

Don't sell anything until you have it running................been there, done that, got the "T" shirt. :dance: :whistle: :cry:


Alan S
 
Alan S said:
Word to the wise/voice of experience.

Don't sell anything until you have it running................been there, done that, got the "T" shirt. :dance: :whistle: :cry:


Alan S

I'll raise that to don't sell anything...ever :D Its great to know you have a spare everything!!!!
But then again thats why our gardens are full of old cits and pugs hey Alan :adrink:

Dave
 
Alan S said:
Word to the wise/voice of experience.

Don't sell anything until you have it running................been there, done that, got the "T" shirt. :dance: :whistle: :cry:


Alan S

How come Alan? Apparently the engine is still being used in the sellers car. I think it is making way for a beastly Mi16 on quads...
 
Strip down clean and inspect.

Al

Whatever you decide, now you have got the motor half stripped, I would pull it right down and clean and strip everything, then measure and inspect what you have, everything may be recoverable, though like you I have doubts by the condition of the engine.

I have seen some stop gap rebuilds in my lifetime, that defy all the odds and run forever, you just can't break them.

You just have to weigh everything up. One of the things working against "stop gap" rebuilds today is the high cost of seals, gaskets, quality sealing compounds etc, if you went that way you would try to keep all these costs down as much as possible using good secondhand parts.

We used to spray old headgaskets both sides with "silverfrost" aluminium paint to seal them down, but don't think that would work that well on a wet sleeve motor - new seals to keep the pots proud of the block would be essential and I would not try and reuse that old gasket :)

The other thing used to "rejuvenate" old motors was to put in a single set of segmented cord style rings properly installed in place of the plain compression rings to stop excessive blowby. This is the el cheapo of all elcheapo engine resto's and will buy you 12 months running time - You will never be satisfied with it but you may get away with it :D

Strip measure inspect - cost out what is required - compare with running motor replacement cost, make up your mind and go for it.

Ken :)
 
you could always pull the pots out and check the liners and then just get a set of rings from aus precision and throw in there

shouldn't cost too much and you will be on your way again

while you have the pots out clean everything out

the engine has to come out anyway :cry:
 
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