Xantia

Ren25

Ren25

Member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Dec 12, 2002
Messages
298
Location
Perth
Hi all,
New to this forum, as have just picked up a '95 Xantia, in what appears to be immaculate condition, 117k's.
I'm new to cits but have had Renaults for years, still got my much loved 25.
What do I need to panic about with the Xantia?
How long should the suspension stay "up" after you switch off?
What does it mean if the oil level light takes a while to go off?
Incidentally the car is my girlfriends.
and, and......
Thanks
Mike
 
Ren25 said:
Hi all,
New to this forum, as have just picked up a '95 Xantia, in what appears to be immaculate condition, 117k's.
I'm new to cits but have had Renaults for years, still got my much loved 25.
What do I need to panic about with the Xantia?
How long should the suspension stay "up" after you switch off?
What does it mean if the oil level light takes a while to go off?
Incidentally the car is my girlfriends.
and, and......
Thanks
Mike
Click to expand...

Is it a Xantia VSX or SX. The SX will drop over time. the VSX will drop (much less though). The VSX has anti-sink valves. It will eventually sink, but usually stop up for a couple of days (marginal sinking aside).

If it's a VSX it will take a bit for the hydraulic pressure light to extinguish as it only has 2 cylinders of the pump devoted to lift the suspension.

I'd just do some general maitenance:

--change the cambelt
--check the pressure of ALL the spheres (not just the suspension spheres).
--change all the fluids ... ie: LHM, engine oil, gearbox oil, coolant etc...

seeya,
Shane L.
 
I've got one the same model with approx 220K klms on it and it goes like it did the day it came out of the showroom.
Fantastic car that gives the impression it will go forever.

As Shane says, change all the oils and if it's an auto, get the ATF changed ASAP if in any doubt as to what has been used in it. (refer here for full story on that.)

If the air/con gets used a fair bit, expect the fans to cark it around 160 - 200K klms. Spheres are a 2/3 year span on getting regassed and apart from that they are pretty much bomb proof.
Even at the mileage mine has and the hard driving it gets, it doesn't use one drop of oil between changes and the fuel consumption is like a mini; it's a very comfortable and ultra reliable car.


Alan S
 
You will need to keep the cooling system in perfect condition - no leaks as the pressure relief in these seems to be the heater matrix not the radiator cap. So if there are any small leaks, gunk then up with silicon gasket sealant and make sure you keep the expansion bottle pretty full. The cooling system circulates through the expansion bottle and any extra air in here expands and ups the circuit pressure putting more strain on the heater matrix.

Once they start to leak, the car will start to smell musty. Best way to fix them eems to be to use a good cooling system addin sealant.

Otherwise a brilliant car (especially as you don't have a clutch clip)

Ken W :cheers:
 
"New" Xantia

Thanks for your input folks
It's a manual SX
spheres & cambelt were done at 100k's.
what about the engine oil level thingy? (see my first post)
I'm going to actually drive the thing tomorrow, so will probably have some more questions afterwards.
The girl loves it, but her previous wheels was a 1985 volvo 360 with 350k's so shes probably not in a position to judge.
Cheers
Mike
 
Ren25 said:
What about the engine oil level thingy? (see my first post)
Click to expand...
Replace the engine oil, 4 litres or go by the oil gauge stick, and the oil filter.
Citroën filter 1109.N3 or Purflux LS 867B, about $16.
Mine has the oil level light flashing at start-up if there's less than 5 litres in it and the car sits at an angle.
5 litres is too much anyway.
I'm under the impression that my oil level sensor is prone to derangement.
 
Last edited:
Clogzz said:
Replace the engine oil, 4 litres or go by the oil gauge stick, and the oil filter.
Citroën filter 1109.N3 or Purflux LS 867B, about $16.
Mine has the oil level light flashing at start-up if there's less than 5 litres in it and the cars sits at an angle.
5 litres is too much anyway.
I'm under the impression that my oil level sensor is prone to derangement.
Click to expand...

I think the manual is wrong, mine takes about 5litres too. If it's only 4litres, it's the first Citroen ever to have such a small sump. Possibly there is a model with a metal sump and no air-con that has a 4litre capacity. I think it's closer to 5litres (just like the same motor in the BX is). I close to 5litres in mine or the dipstick reads low and the oil level light flashes on startup.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Sorry, I meant to cover the oil level thingy in my last post. For it to stay off most of the time, the oil has to be filled right up to the top mark on the dipstick. If it is only half way between the marks, it doesn't take much of a slope to bring it on.

And yes they do like a full 5 litres especially after a filter change.

Ken W :cheers:
 
That must mean that I've got the wrong dipstick.
The sump is pressed metal and there is air conditioning.
4 litres shows above maximum level on the dipstick even with a filter change, but the light will flash at times.
With 5 litres, the light will never flash, but the stick shows too much.
 
Clogzz said:
The sump is pressed metal and there is air conditioning.
Click to expand...


How does that work? I've never seen that combination before, Pug. or Citroen.
 
DoubleChevron said:
Possibly there is a model with a metal sump and no air-con that has a 4litre capacity.
Click to expand...
There's no air conditioning for the sump. :joker:
See Shane's post.
 
PeterT said:
How does that work? I've never seen that combination before, Pug. or Citroen.
Click to expand...

Peter,

Overseas where air/con is considered an option, the BXs (and I presume Xantias) that came minus air/con had a pressed steel sump, so in cases where they have retrofitted it, the first thing they have to do is also nab the sump.
The reason being that all the mounts for the compressor are moulded into it whereas the steel one is just like a square metal lidless box.
We did the conversion on the series one BX but the capacity was the same for both.
Strange part was, that this fact wasn't known until a couple of years ago when an owner on the 16V forum asked a question about fixing a damaged sump and mentioned alloy. Everybody argued it was steel apart from a couple who agreed with the alloy theory and it was after they did a comparison on the cars with differing sumps as regards age and model, that the common denominator, air/con was discovered.
No series one BX16Vs had it due to it not being offered even as an option when they were in vogue.


Alan S :cheers:
 
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