BX Questions

Is this normal for a BX TZi:

After 20 minutes from cold:

Coolant Temperature - around 90 on the guage
Oil Temperature - just under 100 on the guage
Oil pressure - 4 at idle 6 when driving, 8 when cold.

Thanks,

Barry.

Sounds good to me, though I imagine you oil temp guage is highly inaccurate (unless you live in the middle of the NT).

Usually only turbocharged cars manage to heat there oil that hot (unless your hammering the life out of the poor car or towing).

The Xantia normally barely gets above 60degrees oil temp around town. In hot weather with air-con etc on in traffic it usually gets upto the same as the water temp (ie: about 90degrees).

The CX turbo usually runs very similar water & oil temps, unless your pulling hard out on the highway dragging trailers/caravans etc... In this case the oil temp will spiral to 100+ while water temp sits on about 80-86.

seeya,
Shane L.

Shane,

DoubleChevron said:

Sounds good to me, though I imagine you oil temp guage is highly inaccurate (unless you live in the middle of the NT).

Click to expand...

No not the NT, just Sydney traffic. I looked at the oil on the dipstick - seemed new & fresh looking.

Another question: Has anyone ever fixed up the vent selector dial gadget? This car seems to pump air out of the face level dash vents no matter what the selector is set to, even hot air if the heater is on. Can't get warm air at the feet at all. Does the vent selector use vacuum or is it cables/levers? Is it a fixable thing or forget about it?

Thanks,

Barry.

Baz

Its fixable, im not sure if its vaccum or mechanical. I got a bx as well, summer time in sydney traffic can be scary, my oil usually sits on 6 for pressure and tempwise around 90 (i think), it goes above that if im giving the car a hiding on a hot day. Water temp sits at 90 as the minimum its gone off the scale quite a few times and the motor has been fine so i think my temp gauge is a little out of whack.

Hope this helps and makes u feel a little better!

Barry,
the vent system is definitely mechanical and fixable with a bit of patience and some triple jointed dexterity(but what isnt). The face level vent assembly can be removed after prying out the individual vent units. Small screwdriver betwen the outer frame and each vent at one end will pop these out, watch out for the little leaf spring tensioning clip though, they like to drop down onto the radio! The main vent unit is held by a couple of screws behind the knobs and a pair of spring clips on either side toward the top. This should reveal the face level flap mechanism. Make sure the foam seal is intact.
The main vent flap controls are prone to sticking in the cable run or at the heater tap itself. A look at how the cables run explains why. You should be able to reach up on the drivers side of the heater box and try moving the lever where the cable hooks up. If its very stiff there is a good chance the control knob end has given up the ghost becase of this stiffness. There have been some threads in the past describing inventive ways to overcome this problem but as you say the heater control works then this is probably OK
From the passenger side the main floor / screen flap control is accessible with the glovebox removed, same again, see if the cable end lever will move by hand to redirect flow. Fairly uncommon for the actual heater box internals to malfunction, normally its the cables or control knob system.
Ian