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Thread: 69 404 restoration

  1. #201
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by baldrick56 View Post
    Next time I’ll try that - main thing is I don’t want there to be a next time, so horrendous was the job.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Agreed, and remember to wear breathing/ hand protection with sceney's or do a stock take on finger tips after finishing.

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  2. #202
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    Started tinkering with the wiring looms this weekend. Think I have replicating the numbering system and white terminal ends sorted. More on that as they progress.

    Being a bit of a Bowerbird, I have not thrown anything out and I have collected a few extra electrical objects since starting the reno. This includes two extra complete wiring looms of which none are identical. Each one has had extra wires added for one thing or another. From where they are located within the looms, I assume they are for things like tacho’s, driving/fog lights, radio/CD players and then there are the ones that have just been cut off, sidelights, electric fan etc.

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    Not having the perfect eyesight of days gone by, the two wiring schematics I have are rather small and hard to follow. Solution, scan the diagram, save it as a PDF and then have it printed poster size. 600 x 600mm, works just fine. (I think the term at work is called PD) Being colour-blind does not help either, so a multi-meter was used to help trace wires.

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    Which loom to use? Simple, sit on the floor with the enlarged schematic and record all the numbers that are present in their rough location on a sheet of paper. Determine what is what according to the schematic and then identify the missing numbers accordingly.

    As it turns out I have two ’70 looms and one ’69 version, which is the original from the car. Originally, I was just going to put the best one back in, but after inspecting them and determining the terminals, wire and insulating rubber have all perished over time, it was decided to make new ones. Sometime back, I bought a complete NOS under bonnet/engine bay loom.

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    Well that takes care of one-fifth of the looms required. There are five main looms in total; the engine bay, two under the dashboard, fuse-box to left tail light and then the one between the taillights that includes the number plate light and the fuel sender unit.

    After determining which looms to use, the two under dashboard looms were laid out and pinned onto a sheet of ply. The numbers and names of the components were transcribed onto the sheet of ply. This was done twice for each loom. The plan is to remove the tape/binding around the existing looms and then remove one wire at a time. Measure it, cut a new wire of the same or similar colour and place it into the empty pin layout. Each cable will be cut with an addition 150mm, the reason for this is two-fold; if I stuff crimping/soldering (the latter being the preferred option) a terminal, it will not be short and the extra will also allow for pull back created when re-wrapping the with insulation tape. The tension placed the tape, when pulling it tight, will/could have the effect of trying to contract back to its original size, thus causing some shrinkage in the loom. This advice came to me from a retired Honda Racing engineer. Apparently, sometime back when building a new race bike, their loom ended up being too short. So, extra length and fit the terminal last will be the way I proceed.

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    Talk later,

    Dano
    Last edited by Dano; 20th November 2017 at 06:18 AM.

  3. #203
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    If you need cable, this mob sell 100m reels in many colors and the cable is 105C, main rated.

    Building Wire


    I've not purchased cable but have dealt with them for enclosures et al.

    Remember the cable size they state is the actual copper cross sectional area and not the sheath diameter, as is common with automotive suppliers.
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  4. #204
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    Good advice, thanks Robmac

  5. #205
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    Good site. Many thanks

    Need BIG diameter lengths to do some 4CV rewiring ( 6 volts )

    Andrew

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Watkins View Post
    Good site. Many thanks

    Need BIG diameter lengths to do some 4CV rewiring ( 6 volts )

    Andrew
    They have a cable of cross section 10mm^2 , good for around 80 amps.
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  7. #207
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    Default wiring

    Nothing exceeds like excess

    Main thing I need it for is to run two trunk lines from battery to front lamps and earthing block to minimise voltage drop. Front lamps should pull a bit over 20 Amps so this should be overkill, which never hurts when volts are short ( although the price of the full reel is eye watering, but copper not cheap)

    The other things up the front should not draw much ( wipers, indicators, horn, ? radio ) but it IS nice to see and be seen

    6V alternator arrived this week.

    Thanks again

    Andrew

    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    They have a cable of cross section 10mm^2 , good for around 80 amps.

  8. #208
    1000+ Posts Mike Tippett's Avatar
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    Great to see you back on this Dan! I should ask for my 404C thread to be placed into this forum.....
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    1966 Peugeot 404 Coupé Injection in restoration NOW!
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  9. #209
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    The new looms have been laid out and taped/bound.
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    The initial attempt to try to replicate the white terminals and numbering system was a fail (First Attempt in Learning) There were two main reasons. Firstly, the labels used were white PVC and not clear as thought. Secondly, the surface although allegedly laser printer-able would not absorb the ink. The ink dried in the copying process, but smudged/ran when heat to activate the heat shrink encasing the label. A friend is printing Mark II, so time will tell.

    Besides the original cables being brittle etc., some dodgy wiring was found within the bindings.

    Sourcing terminal ends has also been problematic. Have had difficulty sourcing longish 4mm round, male and female ends. The same goes for the flat 6mm wide males, especially the thin version that double up in one slot on some of the multi-terminal blocks. After suffering the usual non-committal or unhelpful customer service from most suppliers, I found the sales guy at Rapid Cables – Brendale, extremely helpful. Still did not quite get what I was looking for, but they are close.

    Until a couple of wiring grommets arrive from Serie04, the cables cannot be finished.

  10. #210
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    Very good Dano did the length change much when you bound the looms
    Marty

  11. #211
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    Hi Marty,

    Yes, they did a bit, maybe 30mm on the shorter ones. The long one which runs from the fuse -box back to the tail-lights, pulled back maybe 50mm.

    With hindsight, I think I was being over cautious as there was plenty of slack in the original cables. Anyhow, better to be safe then sorry.

    The template sheets are yours, if you want to go down the same track.

    Dano

  12. #212
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Dano,

    Consider cable tieing or better still heat shrinking the ends of you looms. From hard experience the glue on the loom tape loosens in time and the tape tends to unravel. And retaping onto a sticky surface is not all that satisfactory.

    Especially in the engine bay and oil laden locations.
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  13. #213
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    Thanks Dano hang on to the sheets I would be silly not to take up your offer.

  14. #214
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    Moved onto the upholstery and seat frames, whilst waiting for the cable labels.

    The back swab was redone as the glue used to hold the foam to the back of the vinyl, dried/bonded leaving a strange pattern line in the middle section. Some said, “Leave it, it looks OK”. However, it was standing out like the proverbial tree in a desert, to me.

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    Sometime ago, I sold my first sewing machine. Although it was an industrial machine, it was struggling with the vinyl. The new one is an older Singer, but it is a genuine industrial machine with a stepper foot. Before it could be used, the machine required a good service. At the same time, the original motor was replaced with a servomotor. Massive difference in power and usability. The servomotor is just so much easier to control. Mind you though, I still keep the pinkies well away from the needle. After servicing and replacing the motor, the technician demonstrated how it would go through eight layers of vinyl.

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    Anyhow.

    The front seat frames have been dismantled and the old paint is being stripped away. Like the rest of the car, there is rust all over the frames. Albeit surface rust, but rust none the less.

    The intertwined coil springs that gave the back support were sagging and rusting.

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    Tried in vain to source the springs, all to no avail. Many offers to re-manufacture them, but at a huge cost. Eventually found a couple very friendly and helpful people at Carleton Upholstery. One was a South African who had a Peugeot back home… Apparently, the new way to make the support is to make a canvas trampoline. As said before, they were so helpful, they told me how to lay up and stitch the canvas, were to buy the canvas and what spring clips would be best; as the original staples/clips will have to be replaced with something with a little give in them. The interlocking springs were the original give mechanism.

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    Cheers,

    Dano

  15. #215
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    Little more progress today.

    Both front seat frames were stripped back to bare metal, in preparation for repainting. I think I have said it before, but I am convinced this car at some stage has sat in water. The places I've found mud and rust are numerous. One of the base, frame tubes had solid mud packed inside. The rust although minor, was beyond surface rust.

    It was a messy job, requiring lots of elbow grease and a good coating of paint stripper. The blistered paint and remaining stripper were cleaned off with steel wool, followed by a wash down with gun cleaner.

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    A final buff with the pneumatic wire wheel and then a coat POR's equivalent of rust converter.

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    Two coats of paint tomorrow and another job ticked off.
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