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Thread: 69 404 restoration

  1. #276
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    Great results Dan and I reckon your wife is right - most start off with something simple and work their up in complexity.

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  2. #277
    Member tok403's Avatar
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    Well done Dan the look fan****intastic. Do you want me to bring up the 203 seats or will you collect lol
    Peter Chisholm likes this.
    NOW: 1960 403 Sedan 1953 203 Ute 1957 203 wagon. Ducati Monster s2r 1000
    Previous Peugeot 1 203 6+ 403 7+ 404. 4 504 4 505. 1 205
    Renault. 3. 12ís. 2. 16ís 1. 25wagon. 1. Floride
    Citroen 1gs

  3. #278
    Fellow Frogger! Dano's Avatar
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    Front callipers are assembled.

    Well almost, I need to find a pair of retaining/slide pins for the pads. One set was OK the other were badly rusted. Quick internet search came up empty, so a more thorough one is required.

    Wire buffed and treated all the bolts, spring clips and bleed nipples etc.

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    Sometime back, the calliper housings were descaled, treated and repainted. In hindsight, having them zinc coated would have been better. Oh well.

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    Used BOSCH rubber grease during the process.

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    The replacement kits ordered from overseas were not correct. The square section ‘O’ ring was fine but the dust boots were the wrong size and shape. They would fit over the piston, but not around the flange of the calliper body. There was also no flat profile for the ‘C’ clip to sit, retain and seal.

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    They also did not include the small ‘O’ ring that seals the fluid journal between the two housings. Not sure what they are for, initially thought they may have been for the three piston callipers, but only two seals were supplied.

    Finally found a set in Brisbane. A company called PROTEX have them listed. Part number K770S. $44 a set. The aforementioned ‘O’ring is included in this kit.

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    Another job ticked off.
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    Last edited by Dano; 15th July 2018 at 08:34 AM.
    dimistyle likes this.

  4. #279
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    I may have one or two, can you tell me the dimensions.

  5. #280
    Fellow Frogger! Dano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GRAHAM WALLIS View Post
    I may have one or two, can you tell me the dimensions.
    Graham,

    I'll measure them and get back to you.

    Thanks heaps.

    Dan

  6. #281
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    Another day a little closer!

    Started to weld the last few sections into place yesterday. These included the rear right inner wheel arch and the under front windscreen/air vent panels. These proved a little more problematic than expected. The rear arch needed a little work to align the bottom section. Because of previous body/panel damage, the profile did not align correctly. A tack weld here and there, then a little stretching and forming, problem solved.

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    The front panels were also a bit of a pain. Considering the replacement panels where either a free hand copies or the original panels extensively reworked/repaired, it was never going to be a straightforward fit. Not complaining just stating facts.

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    The son-in-law bought over his spot welder to speed up the process, but it decided it was going to trip the shed’s circuit breakers (15 Amp circuits). Back to plan ‘A’ drill and plug weld the panels. Time consuming, but just as effective. Self-tapping PK screws were used to help pull the panels together and in place, until a few tack welds were applied. They were then removed and the holes plugged.

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    Copious amounts of seam sealer was applied to fill the caps and joints. Time and daylight beat us; there is still the bonnet hinge panel and windscreen bay panel to fit. When these are done, the panel replacement/rust removal work will have be completed. All new work was given a quick coat of holding acrylic primer, which will be removed and resprayed with a 2-pack prime when the welding is finished.

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    Next step is to seam seal the joints. Being a monocoque body, added to the extensive panel replacements/repairs, there is plenty to do!

    Cheers,
    GreenBlood likes this.

  7. #282
    Fellow Frogger! Dano's Avatar
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    Started the seam sealing process today, when I noticed one of the cage nuts was full of rubbish.

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    Thought it best to inspect the remainder, to see how they looked. Ran a thread tap through a couple to clean them up and they appeared to be OK. Tested by tightening up a bolt to see if the thread held. First couple did then the next one stripped. In the stock of goodies, there was a bag of cage nuts.

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    Bought them thinking just in case, but did not think I would go through the process of replacing them. Silly me!

    The sill ones could have been problematic, as originally they must have be fitted to the inside of the sill panels prior to installation.

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    As luck would have it, two 32mm holes (plastic floor plug size) had been previously drilled/cut into either end of the sill section to gain access to remove the residual sandblasting dust etc. In the future, these will allow for the application of some form of cavity sealer in sill void. Even after hours of vacuuming and blowing compressed air through the channels, there is still blasting media in the cavity.

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    Not wanting the old cage nuts to be floating around inside the sill, a wire was run up through the hole in the existing nut and out through the drilled holes.

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    The flares on the nuts were prised back with a hammer and small cold chisel to dislodge them. A twist was placed in the wire to capture the nut as the wire was pulled back, thus removing the nut. The wire was run back through the holes and a new nut was slide down the wire. When one of the tags could be seen, a small pair of pointed nose pliers were used to draw the nut into position.

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    Next problem was how to hold the nut tight, when folding the tags back to secure it in position. Tried using a smallish bolt, but the head would not turn due to the flanges fouling on the corners/flats of the bolt. Using a longer bolt and a piece of 6mm fuel line, the bolt would pull the nut into position and the tube allowed free access to bend the flanges without damaging the bolt thread.

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    Once secured, the flanges were tightened/bent into position with a pin punch.


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    The cage nuts around the front panels were easy to replace, because the panels was either still not fitted or they were on accessible flanges.

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    A couple of hours later, all the cage nuts were replaced and threads on any extruding bolts or in situ
    threaded plates had been cleaned up with various size taps and dies.

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  8. #283
    Member tok403's Avatar
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    Wow talk about any length, mine just got drilled away and new nut. Excellent effort bro.
    NOW: 1960 403 Sedan 1953 203 Ute 1957 203 wagon. Ducati Monster s2r 1000
    Previous Peugeot 1 203 6+ 403 7+ 404. 4 504 4 505. 1 205
    Renault. 3. 12ís. 2. 16ís 1. 25wagon. 1. Floride
    Citroen 1gs

  9. #284
    Fellow Frogger! Dano's Avatar
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    A huge vote of thanks to my son-in-law, Dan. I was busy for most of yesterday, but he still came over and put in a day’s work on the car.

    It has been a long time in the making, but the body/chassis repairs have now been finished, except for grinding back a few spot welds.

    We are confident the chassis is rust free. That being said, there is evidence of limited surface rust on the inside walls of the sill sections. A flexible probe video camera was used to inspect the internals.

    To treat the affected areas, a cavity spray nozzle be used to pump (flood) a product called ‘Rustmaster’ into cavities. All the cavities i.e sub-frames, door pillars and air vents etc., will be treated in the same manner. Once the product is pumped in, the rotisserie will be rotated a number of times to ensure a good spread on all surfaces. As an added insurance policy, a coating of cavity wax will also be applied.

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    The black panel is a NOS, bay window panel.

    Now for the bogging and sanding...

  10. #285
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    As always, excellent work Dan. As I do, I'm sure all Aussiefroggers look forward to your updates.
    59 Floride likes this.

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