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  1. #276
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    Great results Dan and I reckon your wife is right - most start off with something simple and work their up in complexity.

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  2. #277
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    Well done Dan the look fan****intastic. Do you want me to bring up the 203 seats or will you collect lol
    Peter Chisholm likes this.
    NOW: 1960 403 Sedan 1953 203 Ute 1957 203 wagon. Ducati Monster s2r 1000
    Previous Peugeot 1 203 6+ 403 7+ 404. 4 504 4 505. 1 205
    Renault. 3. 12’s. 2. 16’s 1. 25wagon. 1. Floride
    Citroen 1gs

  3. #278
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    Front callipers are assembled.

    Well almost, I need to find a pair of retaining/slide pins for the pads. One set was OK the other were badly rusted. Quick internet search came up empty, so a more thorough one is required.

    Wire buffed and treated all the bolts, spring clips and bleed nipples etc.

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    Sometime back, the calliper housings were descaled, treated and repainted. In hindsight, having them zinc coated would have been better. Oh well.

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    Used BOSCH rubber grease during the process.

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    The replacement kits ordered from overseas were not correct. The square section ‘O’ ring was fine but the dust boots were the wrong size and shape. They would fit over the piston, but not around the flange of the calliper body. There was also no flat profile for the ‘C’ clip to sit, retain and seal.

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    They also did not include the small ‘O’ ring that seals the fluid journal between the two housings. Not sure what they are for, initially thought they may have been for the three piston callipers, but only two seals were supplied.

    Finally found a set in Brisbane. A company called PROTEX have them listed. Part number K770S. $44 a set. The aforementioned ‘O’ring is included in this kit.

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    Another job ticked off.
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    Last edited by Dano; 15th July 2018 at 08:34 AM.
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  4. #279
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    I may have one or two, can you tell me the dimensions.

  5. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by GRAHAM WALLIS View Post
    I may have one or two, can you tell me the dimensions.
    Graham,

    I'll measure them and get back to you.

    Thanks heaps.

    Dan

  6. #281
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    Another day a little closer!

    Started to weld the last few sections into place yesterday. These included the rear right inner wheel arch and the under front windscreen/air vent panels. These proved a little more problematic than expected. The rear arch needed a little work to align the bottom section. Because of previous body/panel damage, the profile did not align correctly. A tack weld here and there, then a little stretching and forming, problem solved.

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    The front panels were also a bit of a pain. Considering the replacement panels where either a free hand copies or the original panels extensively reworked/repaired, it was never going to be a straightforward fit. Not complaining just stating facts.

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    The son-in-law bought over his spot welder to speed up the process, but it decided it was going to trip the shed’s circuit breakers (15 Amp circuits). Back to plan ‘A’ drill and plug weld the panels. Time consuming, but just as effective. Self-tapping PK screws were used to help pull the panels together and in place, until a few tack welds were applied. They were then removed and the holes plugged.

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    Copious amounts of seam sealer was applied to fill the caps and joints. Time and daylight beat us; there is still the bonnet hinge panel and windscreen bay panel to fit. When these are done, the panel replacement/rust removal work will have be completed. All new work was given a quick coat of holding acrylic primer, which will be removed and resprayed with a 2-pack prime when the welding is finished.

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    Next step is to seam seal the joints. Being a monocoque body, added to the extensive panel replacements/repairs, there is plenty to do!

    Cheers,
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  7. #282
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    Started the seam sealing process today, when I noticed one of the cage nuts was full of rubbish.

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    Thought it best to inspect the remainder, to see how they looked. Ran a thread tap through a couple to clean them up and they appeared to be OK. Tested by tightening up a bolt to see if the thread held. First couple did then the next one stripped. In the stock of goodies, there was a bag of cage nuts.

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    Bought them thinking just in case, but did not think I would go through the process of replacing them. Silly me!

    The sill ones could have been problematic, as originally they must have be fitted to the inside of the sill panels prior to installation.

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    As luck would have it, two 32mm holes (plastic floor plug size) had been previously drilled/cut into either end of the sill section to gain access to remove the residual sandblasting dust etc. In the future, these will allow for the application of some form of cavity sealer in sill void. Even after hours of vacuuming and blowing compressed air through the channels, there is still blasting media in the cavity.

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    Not wanting the old cage nuts to be floating around inside the sill, a wire was run up through the hole in the existing nut and out through the drilled holes.

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    The flares on the nuts were prised back with a hammer and small cold chisel to dislodge them. A twist was placed in the wire to capture the nut as the wire was pulled back, thus removing the nut. The wire was run back through the holes and a new nut was slide down the wire. When one of the tags could be seen, a small pair of pointed nose pliers were used to draw the nut into position.

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    Next problem was how to hold the nut tight, when folding the tags back to secure it in position. Tried using a smallish bolt, but the head would not turn due to the flanges fouling on the corners/flats of the bolt. Using a longer bolt and a piece of 6mm fuel line, the bolt would pull the nut into position and the tube allowed free access to bend the flanges without damaging the bolt thread.

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    Once secured, the flanges were tightened/bent into position with a pin punch.


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    The cage nuts around the front panels were easy to replace, because the panels was either still not fitted or they were on accessible flanges.

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    A couple of hours later, all the cage nuts were replaced and threads on any extruding bolts or in situ
    threaded plates had been cleaned up with various size taps and dies.

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  8. #283
    Member tok403's Avatar
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    Wow talk about any length, mine just got drilled away and new nut. Excellent effort bro.
    NOW: 1960 403 Sedan 1953 203 Ute 1957 203 wagon. Ducati Monster s2r 1000
    Previous Peugeot 1 203 6+ 403 7+ 404. 4 504 4 505. 1 205
    Renault. 3. 12’s. 2. 16’s 1. 25wagon. 1. Floride
    Citroen 1gs

  9. #284
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    A huge vote of thanks to my son-in-law, Dan. I was busy for most of yesterday, but he still came over and put in a day’s work on the car.

    It has been a long time in the making, but the body/chassis repairs have now been finished, except for grinding back a few spot welds.

    We are confident the chassis is rust free. That being said, there is evidence of limited surface rust on the inside walls of the sill sections. A flexible probe video camera was used to inspect the internals.

    To treat the affected areas, a cavity spray nozzle be used to pump (flood) a product called ‘Rustmaster’ into cavities. All the cavities i.e sub-frames, door pillars and air vents etc., will be treated in the same manner. Once the product is pumped in, the rotisserie will be rotated a number of times to ensure a good spread on all surfaces. As an added insurance policy, a coating of cavity wax will also be applied.

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    The black panel is a NOS, bay window panel.

    Now for the bogging and sanding...

  10. #285
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    As always, excellent work Dan. As I do, I'm sure all Aussiefroggers look forward to your updates.

  11. #286
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    Thanks to Pontarriere, for the heads up with this one.

    QUOTE=pontarriere;1593712]For the laminated windscreen try Moran Motor Glass in Qld. They still had them 5 years ago when I contacted them - cost with freight was about $430. (07)33908855 136 Ingleston Road Tingalpa 4173.
    Ron Gruber had a batch of 403 extractors made up a year or so ago, but they have all been sold.
    Cheers
    Jon[/QUOTE]

    Contacted Moran Auto Glass today, on the off chance that they would have a laminated 404 front screen. Turns
    out that they had 2 in stock. Bought one and as I was driving out, I called a fellow frogger to tell him what I had just bought. Long story cut short, he wanted the other one. Since I was still in the area, I turned around and collected the last one. As the owner said, “I haven’t sold one of these in maybe 10 years and now I’ve sold all my stock in 5 minutes”

    A bargain at 200 each.

    They do have 403 ones in stock.

    In the New Year, they are going to cut a lamanated screen for my 203. No problem, as it is a flat screen. Just have to take the original down as a template. It will have all the appropriate markings etched onto it.



    Cheers,


    Dano
    Last edited by Dano; 11th December 2018 at 03:31 PM.

  12. #287
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    Spent today seam sealing the body. What a crap job that is!!!! Well it is almost done. Another few hours tomorrow and that job is ticked off.

    The plan is... Between Christmas and New Year, paint the under body with some form of textured two pack chassis paint. Then paint inside the cabin, boot, door jams and engine bay. Refit whatever it takes to turn it into a rolling chassis. When that is all done, it’s off to the paint booth for the final coats.

    well that is the plan...
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  13. #288
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    You didn't see my post regarding National Windcreens 404 screens for $150?


    Quote Originally Posted by Dano View Post
    Thanks to Pontarriere, for the heads up with this one.

    QUOTE=pontarriere;1593712]For the laminated windscreen try Moran Motor Glass in Qld. They still had them 5 years ago when I contacted them - cost with freight was about $430. (07)33908855 136 Ingleston Road Tingalpa 4173.
    Ron Gruber had a batch of 403 extractors made up a year or so ago, but they have all been sold.
    Cheers
    Jon
    Contacted Moran Auto Glass today, on the off chance that they would have a laminated 404 front screen. Turns
    out that they had 2 in stock. Bought one and as I was driving out, I calll a fellow frogger to tell him what I had just bought. Long story cut short, he wanted the other one. Since I was still in the area, I turned around and collected the last one. As the owner said, “I haven’t sold one of these in maybe 10 years and now I’ve sold all my stock in 5 minutes”

    A bargain at 200 each.

    They do have 403 ones in stock.

    In the New Year, they are going to cut a lamanated screen for my 203. No problem, as it is a flat screen. Just have to take the original down as a template. It will have all the appropriate markings etched onto it.



    Cheers,


    Dano[/QUOTE]

  14. #289
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    Ah, No Graham. Such is life.

  15. #290
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    But in Melbourne so still would have cheaper from Moran for you.

  16. #291
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    Another job ticked off.

    Assembled the tail-lights today.

    Sometime back, I asked if anyone knew where I could source new light boots. Nothing forthcoming, so making new ones was the next option… Then, I remember Bruce Llewellyn’s, tip of soaking old rubbers in lanolin oil.

    DSCN2623 2.jpg

    It worked a treat! Soaked the best of the old hard ones in lanolin for a few days, they became soft and flexible once more.
    Cleaned up the contact wires and gave the insulation on the wires the lanolin treatment as well.

    DSCN2624 2.jpg , DSCN2625 2.jpg , DSCN2626 2.jpg , DSCN2627 3.jpg

    Wires and boots reinstalled.

    DSCN2630 2.jpg

    Replaced the lens seals with 3mm round foam seal material.

    DSCN2632 2.jpg , DSCN2633 2.jpg , DSCN2636 2.jpg , DSCN2639 2.jpg

    Fitted perfectly!

    Ran a tap through the lens screw posts to clean out the residue from the re-chroming process.

    tap.jpg

    Fitted new lenses.

    DSCN2643 2.jpg , DSCN2645 2.jpg

    Job done.

    DSCN2654 2.jpg

    Foot note: All globes will or have been replaced with LED conversions.
    Last edited by Dano; 16th December 2018 at 10:39 PM.
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  17. #292
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    Painted fuel tank and spare wheel carrier today.

    The tank was a NOS item picked up from Barry Stennett’s place, some time back.




    As the writing on the side states, "Page 69" (think that was Barry's shorthand for Peugeot) which was perfect for my ’69. Not that that would have mattered. There was only ever two different fuel tanks across the 404 sedan range. Spare wheel stored in the boot version (Up to early ’66) or the under body version, which was used through to the end of production

    Used paint stripper and 80 grit emery paper to remove the original paint.



    The bare metal tank was treated with POR’s Metal Ready to apply a coat of zinc phosphate, which helps the bonding of the final POR 15 coat.




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    Last edited by Dano; 17th December 2018 at 08:46 PM.

  18. #293
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    Today’s effort involved, assembling the front hubs, brake rotors, centre bearing of the torque tube and the ball head.








    It has been a while since the hubs were cleaned and painted. The day started with removing the surface rust, that had formed on the machined surfaces. Red industrial grade Scotch Brites are perfect for removing the surface rust, they don’t damage the machined surfaces.



    That was followed by running a tap through the disc mounting bolt holes. There was a good build-up of old grease, rust and presumably road grim in the threads. Prudent to clean them up, as the crud would give false readings when torquing the bolts.







    The rotors were NOS again picked a few years back. (The spare parts division of the Peugeot Museum now sell them, along with bronze worm wheel diff centres.) As with the rest of the car, every nut, bolt and washer has/is being replaced.





    The bearing cases where pressed into place and the checked with a small flexible mirror to ensure they were seated correctly.








    According to the manual, the discs should only have a maximum of .07mm run out. The first disc had .11mm, this was rectified by removing the disc and rotating it through 120 degrees. This brought it back to .02mm on the subsequent check. The second disc didn’t required and adjustment as it measured as .03mm, first up.






    Rust had started to develop on the ball head and inside the torque tube. Again, buffed with a Scotch Brite







    The bearing carrier and seals were soaked in a light grade engine oil and a liberal coating was applied to the inner wall of the tube. This made it a whole lot easier to press the carrier into place. Care was taken as to not go past the 890.5mm insertion depth.

    Having a copy of the factory workshop manual has been a godsend throughout the whole resto process.



    This measurement is important, as it locates the bearing on the running surface of the prop shaft and aligns it with the grease nipple, which holds the carrier into place.



    Initially the carrier was seated into the open end of the tube by tapping it into place with a rubber mallet.




    A length of 50mm PVC pipe was used to push/tap the carrier down the tube and into position.




    A new ball head and rubber O-ring were installed on the other end.



    All up, a good day.


    Cheers,

    Dano
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    Last edited by Dano; 18th December 2018 at 10:36 PM.
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  19. #294
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    I'd reckon you've had an excellent day! This promises to be one of, if not the best, 404 in Australia.

  20. #295
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    Cheers Peter.

  21. #296
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    Another one down...

    The windscreen wiper mechanism has been completely overhauled.




    The old unit had a clunk in it as the main spindle swung past bottom dead centre. Initially, I just thought that it was the tension on the various arm, until a second unit appeared to turn relatively smoothly, although a little stiffly.

    It was always the intent to replace the spindles due their ages and the assumption that they would be worn and leak etc. After searching around for a while, I managed to find the two that actually swing the wiper arms. The third one, that is the main drive spindle, proved to be a little more elusive.



    When dismantling the original unit, it became evident that the main drive spindle was slightly bent, thus causing the clunk on rotation. The second unit’s shaft was fine.

    The mechanism body and linkages were stripped back to bare metal and repainted.





    Although the replacement spindles were NOS, it was decided to strip clean and regrease them. The O-ring seals were replace as a precaution.



    Inox mx6 grease with PTFE (a friction reduction additive) was used to lubricate the various parts. It is supposedly resistant to water, salt, chemicals and drying.



    The unit now spins freely with a smooth action.



    Cheers,


    Dano
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    Last edited by Dano; 21st December 2018 at 08:14 PM.
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  22. #297
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    A useless piece of trivia...
    Someone asked me the other day, “How many photos have you taken whilst restoring the car?”
    Hundreds and hundreds was the reply. Curiosity got the better of me, so I counted them.
    To date, there are 149 files containing 3369 images.
    Thank heavens for digital cameras!

  23. #298
    Fellow Frogger! Dano's Avatar
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    Few more odd jobs finished off.

    Stamped the body number onto the new inner guard tower mount.



    Expect for where, two small welding jobs are required (front bumper mount and 3 small plug welds to be completed) the chassis has been fully seam sealed.





    Loose fitted the new seals that go between the inner and outer front guards. Originally, the seals were stapled into position, but this time they are held into place with stainless steel 3mm bolts etc. They have been drilled and readied for fitment after the chassis has been painted. When installed, the bolt heads will be on the outer side of the panel with the nuts hidden in behind the panel. It will be a neater look.

    [






    Painting prep starts Wednesday...

    The heater box repair is proving to be a little more frustrating than expected. More on that later.


    Dano
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    Last edited by Dano; 31st December 2018 at 06:09 PM.

  24. #299
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    What a beautiful day!

    A major milestone in Keith’s restoration was achieved today. The first coat of final paint coverings were applied today.

    The dash instrument panel, ashtray, glove box lid and trim ends, were returned this morning. As the dash has been recovered in a black textured powder coat finish, the original black plastic instrument panel looked ordinary. Even after polishing etc., it just did not blend in with the new work. Dan took away the various bits, along with the powder coated glove box lid and matched the paint. The panels were prepped and coated in a colour matched two-pack. The silver facia was matched and resprayed as well. They look good.



    With the last of the minor welding jobs done, it was down to prepping the boot floor and under body.

    A few areas within the boot floor required filling and sanding to cover pox marks, caused by surface rust damage. The affected areas, had previously been treated with a phosphoric acid based treatment, and sprayed with a two-pack primer.

    The areas requiring attention were bogged, sanded and a coat of two pack high fill applied.





    The under body was prepped in readiness for the application of the polyurethane coating. In this case, the product used was, DOMINATOR EZ Spray urethane bed and body liner.







    The existing primer was scuffed up with 80-grit sandpaper; bolts inserted into threaded holes and threaded studs/bolts taped to protect the threads. All the relevant drain/access holes inside of the cabin, boot and engine bay were taped over to prevent overspray entering.
    Areas not to be painted were masked up and protective plastic sheeting inserted. The shell except for the external floor were wrapped in plastic.







    Protective sheeting was hung on the walls and laid on the floor. This stuff dries relatively quickly and sticks to everything, like… The applicator gun is more akin to a cavity wax gun, rather than a paint spray gun.

    The finished results.







    Tomorrow, inside the boot and the interior of the cabin will be prepped and painted.
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    Last edited by Dano; 3rd January 2019 at 07:16 AM.

  25. #300
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    Slight change in plans.

    As the Dominator liner has sound deadening and heat reducing qualities, it was decided to spray the interior floor wells and firewall area instead of painting them white.





    Although there is a tint-able version, none was available at short notice, so we stayed with black. OK, the original floor was painted white, and then covered in a black bituminous type material. My thinking was, why spend the time and money painting a floor, just to cover it again. Then there is the added flexibility and water resistant qualities as well. Only time will tell, if I am right…

    Not wanting rust to reappear in the air vent panel, a thick coating or Dominator was sprayed in all the nooks and crannies within that section. A piece of nylon hose was added to the applicator nozzle to gain access into the narrow, tight sections.



    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5FKDNsbjQY

    Taped up, and sealed the empty panel sections between the interior and boot and applied two coats of topcoat. Very happy with the results and colour.






    Due to the extensive cutting and welding undertaken in the back corners of the boot, the surface area was quite lumpy etc. To help hide the sins…, a small amount of Dominator was applied to the corner sections, then top coated.



    As it was difficult to apply paint between the roll of the boot floor and the back panel, a coating of the urethane was squirted in the cavity with the flexible hose/nozzle. Again, as a preventative measure.



    When enough mechanicals have been re-installed to make it a rolling chassis, the car will be transported to Dan’s business; where the remainder of the body prepping and panel fitting will take place, prior to completing the painting. There is plenty of aligning, bogging and sanding still to be done.

    Cheers,

    Dano
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    59 Floride and tresbon2 like this.

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