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Thread: 69 404 restoration

  1. #226
    Fellow Frogger! Dano's Avatar
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    Hi Robmac,

    Thanks for the links. I appreciate your tit-bits and advice.

    I've got three sets of crimping tools.
    A Vise Grip brand set, great for cutting and stripping consistent lengths of insulation from the flex. They are useless for crimping. (Bottom)
    A crimping only set, that weren't cheap and they too are useless. (Middle)
    The best crimping pliers I have, are a cheap $15 set from JayCar. Success every-time and they just crimp. (Top)
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    Cheers,

    Dano

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  2. #227
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dano View Post
    Hi Robmac,

    Thanks for the links. I appreciate your tit-bits and advice.

    I've got three sets of crimping tools.
    A Vise Grip brand set, great for cutting and stripping consistent lengths of insulation from the flex. They are useless for crimping. (Bottom)
    A crimping only set, that weren't cheap and they too are useless. (Middle)
    The best crimping pliers I have, are a cheap $15 set from JayCar. Success every-time and they just crimp. (Top)
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Cheers,

    Dano
    Dano,

    The easy, belt and braces fix, is to carefully solder the crimped area, use a nice hot iron and heat "the work" until the resin core solder, applied to the work flows right through the joint.

    Be sparing with solder on those tab type QC lugs intended to fit the plastic housings, 'tho.

    Perfection in connection every time.

    edit:

    Unless you are achieving crimps like the below, every time, I'd solder as well

    69 404 restoration-1.5mm-crimp.jpg
    Last edited by robmac; 27th December 2017 at 07:48 PM.
    Departed the Aussie Frogs Community 14 September 2018.

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  3. #228
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    One loom is almost finished. As thought, the process is time consuming. Does not help, when someone kept placing a hot soldering iron down on the heat shrink or blows hot air onto it. Mmmm, wonder who that could be? Problem solved when the correct tool rests are used.

    The terminals are being soldered once crimped, this should prevent any oxidisation of the terminal wires.

    The pictures below show 3 of the 4 terminal types that are used. Male 4mm round is the only missing one.



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    Marty 404, Denamnu and his Dad dropped in for a gander and a bit of a chinwag this morning. These guys are always good company.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 69 404 restoration-20171227_164403.jpg  
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  4. #229
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    I've never managed to find an exact match to the 404 style bullet male/ female connectors.

    Altronics and others stock a close match

    Connectors | Bullet Male - Altronics

    http://www.altronics.com.au/connecto...=bullet-female

    I'm sure you are running a few wires for future use: wink2:


    Have to say the 40mbps upload makes posting images and links ultra fast.
    Departed the Aussie Frogs Community 14 September 2018.

    The moderator/leader should not operate for the sole benefit of himself and his kind but for the benefit of the people at large and of the AF Fraternity and its patterns, as becomes what he perceives as fitting into place, into his sense of natural justice.
    with apologies to Judy Grahn

  5. #230
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    Lots of fiddly work but your results are great.
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  6. #231
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    Robmac,


    The closest I've found are these from Autocables at Rocklea, Brisbane. Contact | Auto Cable & Accessories


    URL link for terminals. Uninsulated Crimp Terminals - Quikcrimp (Carrolls) | Auto Cable & Accessories
    Brand: QUIKCRIMP Part No. BM1-5



    Brand QUIKCRIMP Part No: BF1-5

    They come in packs of 100. Ranging from $7-30 to $12.00 per pack




    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    I've never managed to find an exact match to the 404 style bullet male/ female connectors.

    Altronics and others stock a close match

    Connectors | Bullet Male - Altronics

    Connectors | Bullet Female - Altronics

    I'm sure you are running a few wires for future use: wink2:


    Have to say the 40mbps upload makes posting images and links ultra fast.

  7. #232
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    It has taken nearly a week of solid work, but the wiring looms are finished. Originally, I thought there was only five looms, but there is actually six. Forgot about the one that runs from the main dash loom out to the engine components, i.e. starter motor etc.



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    It was good to have an array of old looms to reference back to, as the wiring diagram in the owner’s manual is for a left-hand-drive vehicle. A few of the wires run differently in the right-hand drive models.

    The attachment of the terminals, numbering system soldering and heat shrinking was tedious, but rewarding in the end. It would be a pain in the rear end, trying to trace wires to wherever, when installing the looms and the relevant componentry.

    Attachment 102379

    It was always intented to use the original plastic terminal connectors, but that idea was ditched, when it was found that a number of them had started to perish through age and overheating in the past.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Two had to be kept though as they are the ones that connect the looms to the dash cluster.

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    Another issue incurred was because the wire sizes have been increased; this made it difficult to fit grouped wires into the old terminal holes without applying too much pressure to the casings. Where the main power supply cables run through connector blocks, they were rerouted to bypass the smaller connector blocks. Originally the plan was to simply use screw terminals, but they just didn't look right.

    Attachment 102380 Attachment 102382

    Eventually these wires were run through 50amp NAVRA terminals.

    Attachment 102383 Attachment 102384


    A bit of over kill, but the best solution found at a number of auto-part retailers. The increased wire diameter is a precautionary measure. Although the original wires have lasted 50 years, there was the previously mentioned issue of overheating and shorting in the looms.

    All the firewall and body grommets are NOS Peugeot fittings.
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    The roof of Belle, makes a great place to store the cables.

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    Currently I am kicking around the idea of running tandem 404 fuse boxes. It does make a lot of sense. Although maintaining originality keeps nagging at me, maybe modern wiring logic and safety will outweigh my thoughts. Time will tell.

    I would like to thank ROBMAC’s for his invaluable advice and suggestions. It is always good to have someone to bounce ideas off when you are not sure. This is one of the best things about being a member of the A/F forum.

    Another job ticked off.

    Cheers,

    Dano

  8. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dano View Post
    It has taken nearly a week of solid work, but the wiring looms are finished. Originally, I thought there was only five looms, but there is actually six. Forgot about the one that runs from the main dash loom out to the engine components, i.e. starter motor etc.



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    It was good to have an array of old looms to reference back to, as the wiring diagram in the owner’s manual is for a left-hand-drive vehicle. A few of the wires run differently in the right-hand drive models.

    The attachment of the terminals, numbering system soldering and heat shrinking was tedious, but rewarding in the end. It would be a pain in the rear end, trying to trace wires to wherever, when installing the looms and the relevant componentry.

    Attachment 102379

    It was always intented to use the original plastic terminal connectors, but that idea was ditched, when it was found that a number of them had started to perish through age and overheating in the past.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Two had to be kept though as they are the ones that connect the looms to the dash cluster.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	102391

    Another issue incurred was because the wire sizes have been increased; this made it difficult to fit grouped wires into the old terminal holes without applying too much pressure to the casings. Where the main power supply cables run through connector blocks, they were rerouted to bypass the smaller connector blocks. Originally the plan was to simply use screw terminals, but they just didn't look right.

    Attachment 102380 Attachment 102382

    Eventually these wires were run through 50amp NAVRA terminals.

    Attachment 102383 Attachment 102384


    A bit of over kill, but the best solution found at a number of auto-part retailers. The increased wire diameter is a precautionary measure. Although the original wires have lasted 50 years, there was the previously mentioned issue of overheating and shorting in the looms.

    All the firewall and body grommets are NOS Peugeot fittings.
    Attachment 102385 Click image for larger version. 

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    The roof of Belle, makes a great place to store the cables.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	102395

    Currently I am kicking around the idea of running tandem 404 fuse boxes. It does make a lot of sense. Although maintaining originality keeps nagging at me, maybe modern wiring logic and safety will outweigh my thoughts. Time will tell.

    I would like to thank ROBMAC’s for his invaluable advice and suggestions. It is always good to have someone to bounce ideas off when you are not sure. This is one of the best things about being a member of the A/F forum.

    Another job ticked off.

    Cheers,

    Dano
    Impressed Dano, I still bear the scars from rewiring my TA years back in the UK. Time taken on pulling wires was as nothing compared to the the time taken to fettle / refurbish all the fittings they went to.
    It’s a job on the list for the current TA which cannot be avoided.
    Regards Rob


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    may all your plans be cunning ones,
    Baldrick,

    fleet: 1989 Peugeot 505 GTi Wagon
    1969 Peugeot 404 Sedan
    2003 Smart 452 Roadster
    2005 MG ZR160
    1988 Mercedes 300E
    1953 Citroen 15CV (under Restoration)
    1953 Bristol 401 (under Restoration)
    That's one for each day of the week - I really should stop

  9. #234
    Fellow Frogger! Dano's Avatar
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    After trying a test area yesterday,
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ID:	102438the painstakingly awful job of removing the holding primer has begun in earnest.

    Thinners is now being applied instead of gun wash as previously used, as it works better. The difference in price is minimal in the scope of things.

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    In some places, the coating is thin and surface rust is evident; in other places, it is quite thick. The thinner areas are easy to strip back, but the thicker areas is like spreading molasses around with a rage.

    The process is; spray the surface with a mist bottle to help soften the surface first; then apply a good soaking of thinners with a rage, which is wiped off immediately. If not, it solidifies almost instantaneously. This process still leaves a slight firm, which is being left in place until the whole chassis is finished. At that stage a final rub down with steel-wool and clean thinners will be done to remove the residual primmer.

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    Having the car up on the rotisserie and being able to work without stretching or stooping makes the task a little more pleasurable.

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    My old mate Murphy struck again today! It does not matter how many tarps/rages you put down, you will still end up getting crap on the floor.

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    Based on today’s efforts, I guess I am looking at another 4 - 5 days to finish stripping the chassis.

    All up I happy with the progress.

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    Last edited by Dano; 8th January 2018 at 09:05 AM.
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  10. #235
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    Great progress Dan. This is going to be one very nice 404.

  11. #236
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    You're just bloody showing off now, Dan.
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  12. #237
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    I was wondering why the electrical project has gone quiet.

    I was wrong to blame the hot weather.

    FWIW you inbox is probably getting filled up by now.
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  13. #238
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    Good to hear from you again Stew.

    Quote Originally Posted by stew View Post
    You're just bloody showing off now, Dan.
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  14. #239
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    Christmas has arrived early again.

    Been looking for these bits for a while, especially the rubbers. Thought I had to ask 59 Floride for his help to fabricate some. I didn't want to stretch the friendship, 'cause we still have to have a look at the steering column thingy.


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    Anyhow, the rear gearbox dampener weights came from ALVEAS and the tail-light rubbers, eBay Australia, arcadiagp. Funny hey, been searching high and low on many an obscure website and they turn up in OZ. Peugeot museum, spare parts don't even have them.

    The primer removal is getting there slowly. Hot and dirty, no filthy would be an a more apt description.

    Back to the filth...

    Cheers,

    Dano
    Last edited by Dano; 12th January 2018 at 03:12 PM.

  15. #240
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Hi Dan,

    Following your acquisition of so many rare and wonderful OEM and repro parts is almost as entertaining as following the physical restoration.

    And doubtless necessary for you to achieve the quality and originality of the project that you are striving for.

    Keep up the stirling work.

    cheers

    Rob
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  16. #241
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    A large slice of humble pie please.

    Finally conceded defeat after many hours of stuffing around with thinners and blue scotch bright sanding discs etc…

    Last Friday, had the shell wet blasted with glass bead used as the abrasive material.

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    This where the humble pie comes in, as I have always advocated that I’d never put water near it. Even after 5 hours of blasting, there was still a residue of the black crap, not a lot but it’s there in places. There was no dust, but now the garage/shed needs to be thoroughly cleaned. There is glass dust everywhere, and I mean everywhere.

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    The shell has been coated/drenched in Easyphos, a bare metal protector. It will last up to 6 months. After speaking to the manufacturer yesterday, they assure me that body filler can be applied straight over the surface and it will bond no problems.

    The acidic component removes the residual black stuff quite easily. Go figure?


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    Feeling good about the way forward now.
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  17. #242
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    Leaps and bounds, Dan!
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

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  18. #243
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    Collected the powder coated dashboard and trim bits today.

    They look great! The coaters were able to produce a finish that is textured and very similar to the original surface. They call it Sahara Black.


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    They are the same company that re-dipped the panels (As per an earlier thread entry). The company that did the original sandblasting etc., went belly up and the new operators are the people who started the original company years ago and then sold it. They bought it back from the receivers. Reminds me of Kerry Packer, when he said something along the lines of “everyone needs an Alan Bond in their life just once” He was referring to buying back Channel 9 from Bond for a song, after he sold it to Bond for a motza. I digress, sorry.

    The black will look good with the new interior components such as seats, door-cards, hood lining, pads atop of the door cards etc...

    The following also arrive recently.

    4 new calliper pistons for the front brakes.

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    As can be seen in the following pictures, a fair amount of force was required to get the old ones out. They were rusted/gummed in tightly. They wouldn’t blow out with high-pressure air or gentle persuasion. In the end. they were soaked overnight in thinners/degreaser… and a set of vise-grips and long pipe for leverage was used to budge them. When they eventually moved, the lips on the pistons were a bit second hand. The cylindrical sides had rust pits on them as well. Thus the new ones.

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    The selector rod was a good find. The neoprene/plastic ball on the end is none existent on the original shaft. Where the ball pivots is just a burred and bent spigot on the existing one.


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    Cheers

    Dano
    Last edited by Dano; 24th January 2018 at 07:15 PM.
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  19. #244
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    You are like a dynamo. Of course, when the 404 is finished we can all look forward to the 203!
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  20. #245
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    Assembled the rear axle housing today.

    Ditched the paper gaskets and used Threebond, High Temp RTV silicone instead. Another job ticked off.

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    The parts had all been cleaned, painted and overhauled sometime ago. The diff centre has a new pinion, crown wheel and bearings.

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  21. #246
    Fellow Frogger! Dano's Avatar
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    The front calipers are almost done.

    Dismantled them a few weeks ago and they were in a considerably poor condition. When originally dismantling the car, it was found that it had two of the same calipers attached. Can’t remember whether it was two lefts or rights, but it struck me as an odd thing to do. One of the units would have been impossible/difficult to bleed with the nipple on the bottom. There was a spare/correct one in the boot.

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    As mention previously, removing the pistons was quite difficult. The retaining pins needed a little persuasion to move as well. Basically, the units were filthy and seized. God only knows how this car was driven previously…

    Sandblasted the housing at a mates workshop yesterday and prior to being painted they were given a final touch up with a rotary wire buff wheel. During this process, date stamps were found on the housings.

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    To protect the machined surfaces they were tapped. The piston cavities, bleed holes and any other hole were packed with foam to prevent paint getting in.


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    First a coat of red etch primmer was applied, then followed up with a couple of coats of silver caliper paint.

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    Between coats, a coating of POR15 Glisten was applied to the diff housing. The castings are quite porous on the outside. The Glisten will fill these cavities and help to keep it clean and easy to clean.

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    Now to find the rear drums. They are stored safely, somewhere.
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  22. #247
    Fellow Frogger! Dano's Avatar
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    It has been a while since anything major has been done on Keith, but that changed today. Thanks to the daughter's partner.

    After grafting another donor section into the right rear wheel arch, the shell received a coat of two-pack primer.


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    It was decided to cut and graft a new/donor section in, rather than stuffing around with trying to repair the existing arc. (Thanks Bruce for the section)

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    As stated in an earlier entry, this section of arch had previously been bogged to hide a rather dubious repair. The middle section of the arch was relatively straight, instead of a sweeping curved.

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    The inner section also has a relatively large pressure indent, which still needs to be straightened/pulled out. The replacement inner panel of the arch has been left off for now so primer could be sprayed into the cavity. The original metal within this fabricated box section is untreated. It is a little surprising that it has not rusted considering the lack of any paint within and the amount of rust that was in the rest of the body.

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    A few other areas were touched up from previous repairs. Mainly grinding back weld lugs and a minor seam repair.

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    The gloss finish of the two pack has highlighted just how much more remedial work is required, before the final coats can be applied.
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    Today’s efforts have put a smile on the dial though.

    Cheers,

    Dano
    Last edited by Dano; 5th March 2018 at 09:39 AM.

  23. #248
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    And a smile on our dial too Dan. Thanks for updating us.

  24. #249
    Fellow Frogger! Dano's Avatar
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    Further to yesterday’s post, a couple of weeks ago, Dan took all the panels, less guards to his work and primed them in the spray booth.

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    As with the body/shell the undercoat has highlighted the dints etc. that will require filling and sanding.

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    Interestingly, even though all the skins are genuine Peugeot NOS, only one had the holes pre-drilled for the stainless steel trim. The front ones may be ute skins, but the back-right has no holes either.

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    Both front guards had previously been stripped and repaired on what was thought were the best pair. Anyhow, after the paint and bog was removed, it became obvious that the right-side was not as good as first thought. The fold/lip that holds the outer guard onto the inner guard was not as square as it should be and the crease line that matches the top of the bonnet is pretty much none existent in places.

    Initially, it was thought that the crease and fold could be easily worked back into shape. Not so, not without a lot of time and effort being spent , followed by bogging and sanding.

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    So another one was pulled out of the stockpile and although it does have a rust hole in it, the overall condition is much better.

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    It is now in the process of being stripped and prepped.

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    The guards will be primed later this week.

    The original choice will go back into storage, hopefully never being required...

    For those who are interested, this is the primer being used.

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    Onward and upwards as they say…
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  25. #250
    Fellow Frogger! Dano's Avatar
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    Completed the rear swab today.

    This involved cutting a canvas liner to replace the original copra/horsehair.


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    Shaped and glued together two foam sections to replace the existing kapok filler material. A band-saw was used cut the foam, it worked a treat.


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    The darker foam is a denser material to help prevent sage on the leading edge.

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    Then stretched and clipped the vinyl into place. Having 3 sets of the correct pliers (Hog clip pliers) makes it so much easier. They are straight, bent and curved, which makes for easy access into tight corners etc.


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    I feel as though I have done something after a long break away from the car.

    Just started mid-year holidays, so it is time for some serious work. The to-do-list is massive, but a little at a time.

    Cheers,

    Dano

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